knut_schwinzer

<p>Some nice shots, great your homage to W. Eugene, Eddie! Kudos Jim, Steve (for nothing) and Brad (for surrealism)<br> I offer an easter votive-motive.</p><div></div>

<p>I have the experience that chrome/black chrome bodies are slightly slippery, given also the soap-shape of our beloved M cameras. The best grip is provided by laquer, or (black) paint, at least for my little sticky fingers. I did put some gaffer in a thumbs-up like position on M3 and M2 and gained a little handling security. </p>

<p>Most impressive, Brian! Thanks! So in theory, you could reprogram an M8 to be a lot better (though slower)? Or is it all after the fact manipulation with the M8 in service mode with RAW+Jpeg fine enabled, defaulting after switching the camera off to DNG again? Please excuse my ignorance if I missed here something! Cheers, Knut</p>

<p>Interesting, Brian. If it is not asking too much, could you elaborate 2) a bit? Maybe with a sample pic?<br> TIA, <br> Knut</p><div></div>

<p>Industrial & sweet...trying to put things together. Maybe it was 28mm BTW.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the exhaustive information, Alan! </p>

<p>Hi all, anybody that is able to tidy up the haze of this lens?<br /> No mechanical problems, but the lubricant they chose 70 years ago (whale sperm?!) makes this lenses often unusable nowadays.<br /> TIA,<br /> Knut<br /> PD Better no UK adresses (I'm located in Spain) because of expensive shipping and tax problems. A pity.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Another one... </p><div></div>

<p>Innovative, la femme, to let...</p><div></div>

<p>Jim, I stand corrected. Just had not present that your work reminded me strongly to Gibson's in the first place!</p><div></div>

<p>Outstanding tryptic, Barry! Everything fits, like in a hyperrealistic painting! Dear Jim, I see you emulated Ralph G. more than sucessfully! This week is strong, I try to give some re-flections on Brad's great shot. Funny was, only after developing I discovered the "hair" graffito in the window...</p><div></div>

<p>Happy weekend all! </p><div></div>

<p>I always like it when our POW amalgam in some way or another! Homage to Jim T, trying to emulate Barry's complementary color contrast.</p>

<p>Thanks Mukul! They became aware 'cause I took 3 quick consecutive pics. M8 is not really silent (cough).<br /> I prefocused roughly with my back to them. There where many more people on the platform, that is why we were standing that close, but I managed to exclude them in the shot. Looks like midnight and staged, but it was early afternoon (Look at the LEDs) and (I think) russian to me unknown tourists. Maybe they even have experience in modeling...<br /> In the last photo he looks straight into the camera, and I gave them a broad smile which they responded equally and boarded my train.</p>

<p>Passeig de Gracia, Barcelona</p><div></div>

<p>Hmm, as you use Fujiroid on the RZ, now I see not so much redundance anymore. As Don says, bring what you want, as long you are comfortable!</p>

<p>Dear Lou, I think you are right with your suspicions. With what you are already lugging around, I would have a hard time to choose a tool.</p> <p>The 80mm on the 124G is almost the same FOV as 110 on the 6x7, and only half stop difference, which is not even real world difference, as you can shoot the quieter 124G at slower speeds than that great but clunky studio SLR.<br /> And you have the X100 with great low light performance. Why bother with MF in low light quick movement situations?</p> <p>MF (Maybe only one, maybe add a 65mm [28mm eq. in 135] to your Mamiya) for the day work. Fuji for the concerts, I assume you can get close. You could add a 0.8x Fuji adapter (350$ new) to have 28mm equivalent at good quality AND f2 for the Fuji. It's a bit cumbersome screwing around with it (a friend has the 1.5x 50mm equivalent conversion lens) as you have to tell the camera every time you attach or remove it) but looks like a valid option.</p> <p>I wouldn't add a fourth format to your existing rig. Think also of editing and how you want to present your reportage to your friends. Might be challenging with 135, 120 6x6, 6x7 and digital.</p> <p>Besides, while all the lenses for the Contax are no less than stellar, the G1 VF is very squinty, no real joy to work with. This is why the G2 is more expensive.</p> <p>Hope that helps,</p> <p>Best,</p> <p>Knut</p>

<p>Nice all!!! Very elegant, Eddie!</p>

<p>Yes you can, Jochen! As for the missing digits, the noughts could be easily represented by ''.<br> Like 6400, then 128''. You wouldn't take this for seconds in that mode!</p>

<p>My everyday troll never stops...</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all, Barry, I just made something up. Waiting for you though...<br> Good light for y'all, if you wish, post some stuff!</p><div></div>

<p>Robin, you also make the decision to give A mode to the camera, and it still displays the shutter speed. I suspect why you are not looking at your DSLR's ISO-info: Too much data displayed anyways.</p> <p><br /> But in a M9 or MM it would be the ONLY data at your sight, and relevant; as you would know your two manual presets.<br /> I think this sounds strange, but because we grew up with a fixed ISO, even push or pull have been anticipated (or applied) values; maybe we are still not taking in account that we now have a third variable automatic function which determines exposure...</p> <p>Early Leica M8's had, if I recall it right, no AutoISO because the developers considered it unneccesary.<br /> Only after customers intervention they included it in firmware.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks Brad! <br /> I remember having seen something from him years ago, just intriguing! Takin' the chromium off he did for weight issues, if I recall right?!</p> <p>Thinking about the Auto ISO stuff with Leica digital: I don't get why there's no display of it in the finder, when you are shooting manual speed for any reason. I guess that's only because of the classic mindset when ISO was not variable, as the camera knows it's choice...160, 320, etc... Should be a rather easy firmware update,</p> <p>Reminds me of a Nokia cellphone of the early 90's which wasn't made to show the time...although inherently knowing it.</p> <p>In the Fujis, Auto ISO is a great function as it would push up to 800ASA in bright daylight only when needed to cope with high contrast situations.</p>

<p>Nice, Brad! Who is this guy with the button rewind M2? He seems to demonstrate his shooting style...Any pics of him online?</p>

<p>Hallo Jochen, the blinking does give you the hint that the camera has estimated your lowest threshold as non-sufficient. Shutter speed will blink when you are below ISO 6400, 1/125. The camera then uses the shutter speed needed for "correct" exposure. If you notice that stopping down is causing the blinking, count down from the aperture value where it is permanent and you will be able to tell that e.g. 2 stops closed from there on, your camera will induce a 1/30.<br /> And as others mentioned, better using a fixed ISO; because you if you use aperture/time in manual, it makes no sense in most situations to use Auto ISO, as it could spoil your decisions taken beforehand "equilibrating" a shot. Think of incident light, Auto ISO will give you underexposure while you wanted to expose on the shadows.</p> <p>Hey, and anyways, digital cameras & hanging out in P.net is for sure for sissies, too!<br /> Real men make fire with a flintstone and if that not works out, they eat the deer RAW. <br /> And they have a wet darkroom. Now that makes out of a rainy day a gay day. <br /> No plug-ins needed at all!</p> <p>With the Fujis and in A, S or P mode it makes sense to dial in Auto Iso IMHO.</p>