knut_schwinzer

<p>Nice stuff guys!!! Apples without oranges relax program:</p><div></div>

<p>Lovely film shot, Allen!</p>

<p>Great choice, you already know by heart, Gus Gus!!! It is the late heyday Leica M.<br> As for a second body, I recommend to go to sleep early and having some exercises.<br> Good light,<br> Knut</p>

<p>Joao, I think Robin said almost everything. And please consider: 200mm projection lenses were used to do projections in public events and/or with multiple projectors, which were usually positioned 10-25m from the screen.<br /> Also the 90mm colorplan is more luminous, one full stop from 2.5 to 3.4!!! (100%)<br /> There are Colorplan versions for glass/plastic mounted slides and for cardboard ones, the latter popping into a bulged shape after some seconds of heating up, and that Colorplan is called CF (curved focus?) if I recall right. Try to avoid the CF version unless you want to project original Kodachromes/carboard mounted slides.</p> <p>Good light,</p> <p>Knut</p>

<p>The 200mm might have a minimum focus distance of several meters before falling out of the helicoid. If you don't have a very big home, you should go with the 90mm anyways.</p>

<p>ok ropey sheep, I agree. Always a good idea washing the wool before starting to knit!!!<br> Good light for y'all, I'm on holidays right now.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>OMG Herbert, the pig already perished!<br> I have a sheep, still alive:</p><div></div>

<p>I always compensate an average center weighted TTL meter, with or without filter.<br> It is about understanding where it reads the central portion of 18% middle grey,<br> then metering something lit like your subject, eg concrete, skin, a grey wall - and using that value.<br> Obviously, a meter can be tricked by a filter because its spectral sensitivity might make it respond differently<br> at different wave lenghts/colors.<br> Still believe if you do a reading of the foreground, excluding the sky you should get very usable pics with any filter.<br> Find out how green foliage vs red bricks come out with red vs green filter, and you'll be set.<br> You might want to try a Mamiya 6 or 7 with the average meter build into the finder, and compensate filters according to Henry's suggestions. But oops, that is film...</p> <p> </p>

<p>Is it simplifying things screwing filters off and on for each shot?<br> I would rather use a handheld meter.<br> Well, it might be an approach for landscape, I admit. Ansel-Adams-like workflow.<br> But with digital?!</p>

<p>Thanks Richard, Barry, Jim!</p><div></div>

<p>Keep it simple!!!</p><div></div>

<p>Great stuff all!!!<br /> Jim, as always, great.</p><div></div>

<p>Nice pow this time again. Last weeks I felt a bit underinspired. Kudos Barry, Jim and Brad!!!</p> <div></div>

<p>AFAIK, Leitz used first the underscored Nº, later Nr. My IIIg is Nr. 860xxx.<br> This redundant prefix was dropped with the introduction of the M line, I believe.<br> You have a good chance of having the real thing,<br> but can't you tell it from the more snug fit and smoother operating from the Zorkis?<br> If not, you either have used exceptional Zorkis and now a worn out IIIf...<br> Anyways, pictures would help.</p>

<p>There was a nice third party threaded cap with a slot for a coin.<br /> Don't know where one could get one. It seems to be safer than the original. I rather had the problem that the cap did not come off easily, as I used to tighten it with a piece of leather providing more torque than the bare finger.<br /> I had to employ pliers more than once, which is whacky and bad for cosmetics. These caps are notorious for unscrewing too easily or being too tight to remove. Maybe one day I will drill two opposite holes into it for a custom wrench.</p>

<p>M8 and old 35mm Summilux wide open. </p><div></div>

<p>Welcome Bill, really a wow car. I love the segmented windshield with corresponding wipers.<br> Thanks Jim and Mukul! Glad always about your fine input on this site!<br> Good light to you all,</p> <p>Knut</p><div></div>

<p>I'm wowed by my new ol' collapsible Summicron...</p><div></div>

<p>See!!!</p><div></div>

<p>Ok, I'll hi-jack this thread!!!</p>

<p>Allen, I think it's pretty good. If you want, you may look at the attachment!</p><div></div>

<p>Detail:</p><div></div>

<p>Emir, yes, I agree in all points. But in a controlled situation it really works to mate Fuji Xpro1 with a Summicron V4:</p><div></div>

<p>repost, but I am still impressed by the flare control of this little lens. I was unable to look at this scene without polarized sunglasses:</p><div></div>

<p>Jump in</p><div></div>