john_horvath1
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Which lens should I get if I want to take close-up photographs of objects with the RZ? For example if I want to take close-up picture of a jar.
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Underexposure problem with flash diffuser
john_horvath1 replied to john_horvath1's topic in Beginner Questions
Thanks, Joseph! Yeah, I was thinking about using a two stop compensation (one for the filter, the other one for the softbox) after the metering, just in case. -
Underexposure problem with flash diffuser
john_horvath1 replied to john_horvath1's topic in Beginner Questions
Thank you for explaining it way better than I ever could. Yes, that’s the reason. -
Underexposure problem with flash diffuser
john_horvath1 replied to john_horvath1's topic in Beginner Questions
Thank you very much for all these informative answers. After considering all these factors, I assume it must be a combination of a not fully charged flash as well as problems with the film processing. Or just one of these two. Some additional info: I use a simple yellow filter and a Minolta IVF lightmeter. -
I shoot black and white film, and recently I started to use flash with a LumiQuest Mini Softbox diffuser. I always use my lightmeter when shooting with flash, and somehow even this way some of the pictures came out a bit underexposed, despite the fact that I compensated one stop for my black and white filter. What could be the problem? On the box of the diffuser the manufacturer says that there's one EV loss of light, but if I meter with an incident light meter, then I don't have to compensate - right? Or even a meter it's better to compensate one stop?
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Thanks for all the answers. So I have to level the legs separately as well? I thought there are three-way levels on the head so it can be levelled on its own. I'll try it and will report back with the results.
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I recently bought a three way tripod head with 3 bubble levels on it. Even with all of this I just can’t seem to make properly levelled pictures with it. I’m doing everything correctly; the head is not mis-threaded, the camera’s weight does not exceed the limit, and I’m setting everything according to the bubble levels (2 at a time). So why do I still get consistently slanted pictures? This issue is important for me, because I use a film camera with no hot-shoe on top, so its a must to level the camera with the tripod head.
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Thank you!
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My tripod head does not have bubble levels, and I do not plan to buy another one. I still have to level my old Pentax 67 somehow. Would the problem be solved with getting the wooden grip with the hot-shoe, and putting a two-axis bubble level in there?
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Thank you! How do I know it's a second generation 200? In general I rarely use flash. What's the difference between the 200 and the 165? Is the 165 more like a 85mm 35mm lens, so good for head and shoulders shots?
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My favourite portrait lens I've used so far is the classic Nikon Nikkor 105mm f/2.5, and I'm looking for the medium format equivalent of that. Which Pentax 67 lens would be the right choice? Reading previous posts on this subject, I gathered that the 200mm is the best, when it comes to tight head / head and shoulder shots. Thoughts?
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I've bought some used UV filters recently that have some minor sracthes on them, when viewed under light. However I didn't see them affect the developed and scanned pictures in any way. So... Should I worry about these scratches or ignore them in the long run?
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Night photography with Portra 400 / reciprocity failure
john_horvath1 replied to john_horvath1's topic in Beginner Questions
Thank you! What I'm gathering from your response is that making photographs at night is not an exact science. I guess it's time to experiment then! -
I've been using Portra for daylight pictures for a while now, and want to try it our for night pics as well. I have a blue correction filter with a filter factor of 1.5 and a handheld light meter. I read about reciprocity failure online, but am not entirely sure how I should calculate the correct exposure. Can someone explain how to do this?