BelaMolnar

<div></div>

<p>eBay.</p>

<p>My trip to Namibia, I used 2 Nikon full frame cameras, a 24-70/2.8 and a 200mm f/4 Ai-S most of the time. Occasionally the 17-35/2.8 and at ones, the Sossusvlei dry lake bad, the 14/2.8</p>

<p>It is a good old rule, "Pick the tripod, the heaviest you are able to carry". You can't save on a tripod, but you can save on lens or camera if you are a learned and a good photographer.<br>

<em>"If I can get a recommendation for a light tripod similar to that would be awesome."</em><br>

A light tripod never, "awesome".</p>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p>048z</p><div></div>

<p>1484</p><div></div>

<p>Peace with you Stephen. Rest in place Stephen, sooner or later we following you too.<br>

The deepest sympathy to your family too.</p>

<p>I miss him too. He is a very fine gentlemen and a great photographer, ready to help anybody in the most delicate way. I hope, he is all right.</p>

<p>Kirk Enterprise body and lens plates as good as RRS. I using both of them and never had a problem. All the other plates, cheaper ones, useless to me.</p>

<p>Hi Paul. You right, however, the NIKON EL-2, I always know it as a Japan version of the Nikkormat. Learned wrongly. (?) I haw the Nikkormat, 3 of them, working, and the 2 of the NIKON EL-2, in perfect working condition and they are AI coupled right. They are great cameras and strong like a tank a good continuos solid design of the Nikon F series. Thank you for the correction.<br>

Additional information;<br>

<em>"This new Nikon EL2 changed the brand name for this "consumer" camera from Nikkormat to Nikon (just like Nikon's pro cameras).</em><br>

<em>"The biggest change is the new lens mount that's compatible with the new automatic-indexing (AI) lenses.</em><br>

<em>This EL2 adds a wider ASA range, adds an exposure compensation dial, replaces the EL's CdS cell with a silicon photo-diode (SPD) light meter cell, adds a manual 8 second speed (the EL only went to 4 seconds in manual), and adds a unique shutter ring lock switch for use with the new AW-1 winder. There's also a new battery removal helper."</em></p>

<p>First I had no idea, what camera you talking about. So many cameras out there, with all kinda names.<br /> Ok, The NIKON EL2. It is a Japan's version, for the American market it was NIKKORMAT EL & ELW.<br /> Also available a nice Motor Winder AW-1, which make the unit a nice solid and good looking camera.</p>

<p>The battery is inside the mirror box, lock-up the mirror, at the bottom has a little door you haw to push to the left and lift up, under hiding a battery chamber. It using a special battery, 6V 4LR44P. still available of maxell, Sunking etc, etc. The positive and negative connection clearly indicated. When you down with it, at the back of the body, you see a little push button and a light. Push the button with you fingernail and the light will light up, indicating the battery is ok. Then the camera supposed to work perfectly. I haw two of this camera and like it very much.</p>

<p>I'm second to Nick Sanyal. I like to have a camera, top mechanical engineered, NO video, NO GPS, NO build in flash, MORE simplified software system, reduced bulk, like a Nikon FM3a or similar, build in battery grip, NO secondary vertical control buttons, ( never had on the earlier film cameras added motor-drive, and we never get handicapped or disfigured because of this ) never using them anyway. Haw a character not like other thousand same form of plastic junk. I like to have, like a real 35mm film camera, but, not big and heavy like a concrete block.<br /> And I like to haw a super wide angle lens like Canon haw, 11-24 mm f/4 Rectilinear. Or, a prime 11mm.<br>

Oh, and I hate cellphone. The "BORG' maker.</p>

<p>Hi Walter. All the best, a successful operation, a speedy recovery, but, still, take it easy. Any 135mm f/2.8 lens is super sharp, it is very easy to make a 135mm sharp lens.<br>

Get well son and let see your photographs.</p>

<p>I second to Michael. ( the 24mm f/2.8 AI-S ???! ) Having all, the newest AF-S lenses, the behemoths, don't need to list them, I using most of the time my old, solid build beautiful AI & AI-S lenses, prime & zoom. <br>

It same to me, today people live on tech gossips, not actual technical knowledge and experience. Having all the NIKON lenses, cameras, D3s, D4, Df, just mention digital, my favorite combo, to get out, the<strong> Df</strong> + 20mm/4, 28-50mm f/3.5 and a 135/2.8, - ( occasionally the 50-135/3.5 zoom)( <strong>all of them AI-S & small</strong> ), in my packet, yes in my packet. And don't walking all over like a packed-camel in the dessert with the camera back-pack on my back.</p>

<p>It has NO moire on the image, It is your MONITOR.<br>

Still not sure, print the image and you will see it.</p>

<p>You don't have any moire on this photograph. Check the image on your monitor larger os smaller view, it my be your computer video car and the monitor communication.<br /> Checked on a MAC to EIZO calibrated monitor.<br /> It is a nice high quality architectural image.</p>

<p><em> "Is there really, or is is all about our impatience and reliance on technology--and an unwillingness to go 'old school' and actually learn the strengths and weaknesses of our gear and make that give us those "perfect kit" an satisfying images?" -Patrick Thrush.</em><br /> The perfect kit is in your brain, you knowledge, visualization, experience and artistic talent. The cameras and lenses is secondary.</p>

<p>Beside all of my autofocus lenses, I prefer most of the time the beautiful old AI-& AI-S lenses. I using the cameras, D3s, D4, and the most loved Df. Non of the camera has any problem by using those AI etc lenses. The aperture is connected by a mechanical arm to the lens, and the NON electrical contact do nothing to hinder my photography. For the reference I have to set the NON CPU setting to the manual lens I using, and those information is for the image file so, I know later on, what lens I was using for a certain image. The aperture is always what aperture I was setting on the aperture ring. Your camera has no information what manual (AI) lens you used, because it has no electrical contact and CPU to communicate to the cameras computer. You still can use "A" aperture priority and the camera automatically set the required shutter sped for it. <br>

Dieter suggestion is perfect, <em>program the function button to directly access the non-CPU lens menu.</em></p>

<p>Even it is a joke, but, it is so thru.<br /> <em> "But deep down inside we knew that you were just going to be the same crappy photographer you’ve always been but with more megapickles.”</em></p>

<p>Hi Wouter. I haw the 20 mm f/3.5 and the f/4 ai-s and I like them very much. They are a gem of the wide AI lens design, and extremely small and compact lenses. I used them very often.</p>

<p>All the comments on this lens is correct. I haw had the AI-S version, superb if you don't have a harsh light in the side. Then the lens can flare badly. Supper wide angle shot is good, interior very problematic specially if you have a bright window, or light, outside the composition. I don't have the lens anymore, I haw the 14/2.8 ED prime, which is "almost" as good as the 14-24/2.8 ED. The zoom is superior, I used, bur sold, because I didn't liked the bulk of it, and I never used the zoom option, all the time on the 14 mm setting. Get tired of it and get back to the prime 14/2.8 ED. Why I needed a s.w. zoom to 24 mm, when I get the superior 24-70/2.8 ED all ready? You not going to like it. The lens is beautiful, compact and strong metal design, do not clear the front element to much, eves the slighter micro scratches incresing the ghosting of the lens. The filters you don't needed today, it is down in the processing today. The depth of field is almost infinite on all the apertures. Tricky to work with it. Save money for the 14 mm f/2.8 ED.</p>

<p>Every reasonable consumer SLR camera has the Compensation dial, and the light-mete. The light-meter need a battery and you slightly push the shutter, release button half way to activate or just move the winding arm in a ready position, which is an "on"- switch for the light-meter and the light-mete will show in the viewfinder, at the bottom or the side, I own the firsts Nikon F with the photomick head ( prism ) and they had a light-meter build in it. If you don't see the light-meter working, it is contact problem or battery problem. Usually, in old cameras. the same with Canon, Pentax, Nikon, Topcon, etc. Light meter circuit corroding and loosing contact sometime. Check the battery and battery contacts. The compensation dial right under the main ISO dial usually. Some camera models my differ. A fresh ISO400 film supposed to give a very nice results, and a good scanner can handle easily. How ever, film grain is a beauty on a good print. I never noticed, the scanner added an extra grain or noise, I scan a lots of rolls and still doing it. Scanner; Nikon - Coolscan 4000, running with an old MAC perfectly. Don't forget, B&W negative you supposed to over expose 2 or 3 1/3 click.( compensation dial ) to get a good strong negative. If you don't have a compenzation dial, you compensate on the ISO dial.</p>

<p>I used the D700 for a long time, 2 of them, and it is a very good camera. The 12 MP is not a limit at all, or any concern. The pop-up flesh is operated by pushing the little button at the left side of the pentaprism cover, if you know what is a pentaprism. The D700 works with all earlier, non auto focus lenses, I myself still using them, sometime more then the new plastic modern, "has all" lenses. The 61000 actuation is not an issue either. The question is, what kinda work you planing to do and the lenses you my need. The pop-up flash useless anyway. You need a more serious flash unit or units.</p>