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Posts posted by BelaMolnar

  1. <p>40+ years and the battery is still working. Did you recharged the battery before plugged in to use? The problem with batteries, stored long time not charged, losing some chemicals or something and become unchangeable, dead. A nice toy to play with it. I like stuff like that.</p>
  2. <p>Basically it doesn't do anything, except you get an information on your file data. It is up to you to enter the longer focal length and the max aperture. Like in the 35-105/3.5-4.5 I would enter the 105 and f3.5. Actually I using a lots of old manual lenses including zooms like the 18/4, 20/3.5 &f/4, 35/1.4, 50/2, f/1.8 f1.2, 28-50/3.5AI-S, 35-135.3.5, 50-135/3.5. 105/2.5. 135/2.8, 180/2.8, 200/4,(several of them) 300/4.5ED, 400/5.6ED and more, all of them AI or AI converted lenses. And the cameras I using with those lenses are D3s, D4 and my beloved Df. Regardless, I haw all the AF & AF-S lenses too. The setting is for your information only. The 35-105/3.5-4.5 is a little fun lens, solid build and sharp. I prefer the 35-135/3.5-4.5AI-S instead, for general use.</p>
  3. <p>I can't reply all of you questions here to help, or I my not understand all you questions relating to different operating systems and image processing requirements.<br /> But, I can tell you, how it is worked out for me.<br /> I'm on MAC OS-X … and running two, 2 monitors, one the slightly smaller and set dimmer to get easy on my eyes, , the 12" LaCie photon20vision ( an old one, still working very nice ) for everything, internet, email, PS menus and brazing, checking files, etc. The bigger a 24" is a high quality EIZO color calibrated (build in calibrator hardware and software), is for image checking editing, viewing. When I click on an image thumbnail, RAW. .Jpg it comes up in the 2nd monitor, full size and nothing els on that monitor, only the image corner to corner if it is bigger then the monitor. (fit to screen) It was set up for me by my technician and running in this way, and I using only PS CS-5, nothing else. I don't like complication and cluster of different color windows etc, all those fancy thing, most of the people like it. I try to simplify my workflow and operation as simple as possible and it is fast for me and it is easy. I never liked the one monitor set up, regardless how big is the monitor.</p>
  4. <p>I using a Nikon D3s, D4 and the Df. Before I go to detail, I getting slightly better images of my Df. I have all the top AF & AF-S lenses, but don't like the bulkiness of them, and using most of the time the old AI & AI-S lenses, prime mostly, and some of the old one-touch push-pul zooms. One of my favorite is the Nikon 50-135 mm f/3.5 AI-S zoom. One day in a steady daylight on tripod, on the 16th floor balcony, same subject I made a test shoots. Camera on the heavy tripod, not moved, and lenses ( all of them at f/8) from the oldest Nikon Nikkor-Q 200 mm f4 AI converted, two version of them, then a 200 mm f/4 AI-S, 80-200 mm f/4 & f/4.5(@200 mm ) then my brad new AF-S 70-200 mm f/4 VR. Send the images to my friend, ( living in the same floor) removing all the technical information from the file, name them as #1, 2, 3 - 6. Please pick the best on sharpness color contrast. He had pict the 2 & 3. Come over, I said, I haw a better monitor please see here and pick again. He did. 2 & 3 again. When I told him it was the old Nikon-Q 200/f4 and the old 80-200mm f/4.5 he didn't believed, shacked his head and walked a way.<br /> You mentioned the 180mm f/2.8ED. One of the sharpest lens on this range and the color and contrast is superior. Many of the old lenses non AI, AI, AI-S prime as god as the latest AF variant plastic lenses of over thousand dollar or, some of them even better, and a fraction of the bulk and weight. Of-course, you have to learn to focus manually fast. No problem for me, even in my age of 77. I shot 99 percent of the time in "M" manual mode.<br /> Rodeo-Joe. The 75-150/ 3.5 AI-S is also an excellent light zoom lens. Remember the famous photograph of the "Pagoda with a rainbow" it was done with this lens, by . . . . shhh i forgot the guy name. Sham on me. Yes it is the 77.</p>
  5. <p>A really true camera, I used them with prism finder only and hardly have a wrong exposure negative. A true camera when the brain was in your head, not like today in a plastic package a brain planted and doing the job for you. So, we don't haw to think anymore.<br>

    And I'm still using some of those lenses today on the plastic D3s D4 and Df, the best.<br>

    Real photography.<br>


  6. <p>If this is straight print ( or scan) from the film, it is excellent. As photography in analog and digital, doesn't ending with the negative / RAW /.jpg file. The second part is the development, editing, processing and fine tuning all the available data on the negative, and as I see you have plenty, even in this pure reduced file on the PN. The quality of a final print, even it is digital, the edited, processed image, depend on you technical and artistic pre-visualization. With a good darkroom technic, even it is digital, you can create a stunning b&w image from a not so perfect negative.</p>
  7. <p>You just wrought down line by line my thought. Believe it or not, I using my digital cameras all the time on "M" ( MANUAL) measuring the light with the build-in light-meter ( one day a fellow young photographer was asking, what I'm talking about, "light-meter'?? ) do all my adjustment + & (-) compensation, according with the knowledge I learned, using the Ansel Adams zone system before I know who is Ansel Adams was, and, most of the time I using manual lenses and my fingers (auto focus) is very fast to catch the unexpected flying bird and get the focus on it, or the friend kids running around and get them in focus most of the time. Using a tripod only when I shot film or very low lighting situation.<br /> I haw all, all the modern NIKON AF lenses, but, I mostly like to use the old AI-S manual prime lenses, and some of the zooms. In my portfolio, 70 percent of the images done with AI-S primes. My favorite primes; 18/4, 20/4, 35/1.4, 50/2 /1.4 / 1.2, 85/1.4 200/4 (several of them from the oldest Q to the latest AI-S. They are better then my new AF-S 70-200mmf/4 VR, at 200mm. Which I don't using at all.) and some of the old zooms like the 35-135, especially the 50-135/3.5, 28-50/3.5 and many more. Most of the images of the Rockies was done with the 50-135/3.5 AI-S zoom.<br /> How I managed to do it? . . . See my portfolio.</p>
  8. <p>Dear Edward. Did you tried to do that; <em>"Drag-and-drop was a nice addition,"</em> because I try it and didn't work, any one way I try it. It was unable to add an image to my portfolio, and many others didn't worked.</p>
  9. <p>They probably receiver so much of the negative comments and some are quiet nasty, they just shamefully removed all of them.<br>

    One more time. Please do not rep-lease this PN ever. If you like to improve it, improve the existing one. I don't care of those fleshy colors all over it. Simpler is better. I like to see peoples images quickly, without any, <strong> "Find the Eastern eggs in the garden"</strong> style.<br>

    <strong>NO PN-2</strong> As long as the existing PN running, I'm a paid member. Then, if not, I going to disappear from here.</p>


    MODERATOR NOTE: no threads were deleted

  10. <p><strong>Thank you to restore the one logical and easy to navigate photo site.</strong><br>

    <strong>Please never instal the PN-2 again.</strong><br>


  11. <p>Your best option is, to buy a camera on ebay, <em>"for pars or repair"</em> which haw the little cover on it. I using several of the Olympus OM1 - 2 bodies, some has no cup on it without any problem. Or buy a Motor drive, which is even cheaper and improving the handling of this tiny beautiful body. ( you don't haw to use the MD to drive the camera, I use it as a handle, as a grip for it.) It would be around 50-60 dollar.</p>
  12. <p>BeBu; <em>"Ansel was not only a good photographer he was a good marketer."</em> and the government money behind him. No question he was a very good artist in photography, with an excellent pre-visualization for effect and power, turning images to high standard of artistry. But, still, the publication thru all those background helps he received, was making him an outstanding, and respected, created individual in his life, not like many whom become great after they died, and died moneyless and pure. Still, I like the way he created those prints, bravely altered prints as he pre-visualized them.</p>
  13. <p>Hi Steve.</p>

    <p>-Pick a Folder.<br>

    -Select "Re-Order Photos" click.<br>

    Pick and Grab & Drag any image you like to move in the folder and drop.<br>

    Don't forget to "Save Changes" Click.</p>

    <p>Working all the time.</p>


  14. <p>Please don't bother with ebay, go straight to the camera repair man and they know what to do and they have those parts of plenty. It will cost you more, and you may get a bad one from ebay too. I had a couple of FM and FE and replaced the complete shutter and paid C$120.00 a couple of years ago. Nikon technician, working at hove too. They my be able to replace the faulty blade as well. It is not important to be an aluminum or a titan shutter either. If the camera in a nice condition, then repair it if not, just buy a new used on eBay, guarantied to work well. The FM's almost indestructible cameras. </p>
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