BelaMolnar

<p>I have 2 Leica II cameras from a 1938-39 era, according with the serial number, and 3 Nikon S2.<br>

The CLR on the Nikon S2 with a professional Nikon service man, cost me C$150.00, where the one of the Leica, by an old person of Leica expert, (with certification ) slightly over C$ 500.00 Both camera needed only CLR, no repair or any other work. <br>

The Leicas are history of 35mm photography, and copied all over the world on that time. The old Leicas a sentimental value, the new ones, a status symbol. Status symbol and nothing else, and so, you just have to pay for it. In real photography, you can't tell of the print today, it was done, shoot with a Canon, Nikon, Pentax or Leica/Zeiss.<br>

I wear a Kashmir blazer of charcoal-black and I feel good wearing it, but doesn't looks the blazer better then my friend charcoal-black wool blazer, which was a 1/3 of the prize then my Kashmir blazer.<br>

We are still kids even our 70s, and like toys and bragging.</p>

<div></div>

<p>With pride. This person an honest person and always telling the truth, the truth, what is a sensitive issue for some, and because, they hate him.</p>

<p>To use a deep hood, would help eliminate the flare on the surface on the lens, plus, shooting a back lighted scenery, never use a filter. Any filter.</p>

<p>Add the restoration cost to the, so called "good priced lens" (U$200-250.00 minimum+shipping and handling. ) and you can by a good sample without getting the trouble. Never mind, those coating marks my be on the glass as well, witch is make the lens useless.</p>

<p>I have the 300mm/4.5 ED AI-S and it is a sharp lens if you can handle manual focus. Many of my Rocki Mountain images sgoot with this lens in my portfolio. The lens you have here is a NON ED lens, lens, in lower quality and as I can see, have fongi on it not coating problen. Az is, it is, worthlees.</p>

<p>For social life, gathering on the beach , etc., I using a Nikon D40, and the Olympus T20 flashlight. The reason is, the Olympus T20 much more powerful as the "pop-up" flash, which I hate anyway, and The Nikon D40 has a special shutter, and in manual mode I can shoot with any shutter-speed with this flashlight and camera combination, synchronized for all speed. I have no idea how Olympus did this, but it is working. The T20 is the smallest Olympus flash light of the OM era, and available on eBay for pennies. I have 3 of them, just incase, and never going to get read of my D40. For general photography, family, social event, the camera given me excellent photographs.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Christian. Yes, I do, using all type of lenses form a non AI to AI-S and any new AF-S lenses. Focus is no problem, I haw enough experience and practice form the film era, ( 60 years of photography ) no AF. My reflexes is well trained to shoot an unexpected flying bird and get the bird in focus. Actually, most of the time I using "M" mode, "center weighted" metering on all my cameras and almost never using autofocus. I love my NIKON Df. I make compensation, finger on the shutter speed dial, accordingly.<br>

One more. I can shoot two days in one charge of batteries. So far, I never needed the spare batteries I haw.</p>

<p>What happening in the world, I'm not surprised. </p>

<p>I have all the 135/2.8 from the Nikkor-Q NON AI, a factory converted AI Nikkor-Q.C, the AI and the AI-S. All of them sharp lenses, how ever the oldest Nikkor-Q has slightly warmer image, which I prefer the most. The old Nikkor-Q is a mechanical master pice, solid like a tank and heavy like a tank. The AI and AI-S lenses are smaller and lighter. Up to you which ever you chose. I like to shoot most of the time with the Nikkor-Q. Converting the NON AI to AI is very easy. It is worth the conversion if you don't have a Nikon Df camera. With the Df, you don't even need to convert it.</p>

<p>Congratulation for your new NIKON Df camera. You gonna like it. I haw a D3s, D4 and I like the Df the most. Super easy to focus with all kinda lenses, AI, AI-S even not AI, all of them working fine on the Df. It has the brightest viewfinder on DSLR cameras. All of the DSLR camera viewfinder blur when no battery installed. Well, we learn all the time.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Excellent and sharp images. As used to say. Not the camera, the person behind the camera who made the picture. The Practika Supper TL was my first SLR camera, with 3 lenses, travelled with me all over Europa until I emigrated to S. Africa and bought my first Nikon F. The Practika and the first Nikon F still with me in perfect working order.</p>

<p>Kirk Enterprise and RRS making tailored plates for cameras and lenses with tripod collar. Call up the web site, pick the right plate and order it. That is the best you can do.</p>

<p>Hi Ross. Why not to everyone? This camera shoot like any other DSLR camera, if you don't know what the difference between "aperture and departure", you still can photograph with it in full automatic mode. Like most of the people do with they 5000 dollar DSLRs. Except, you don't have to bother to go to menu to change the ISO setting or the + (-) compensation. It is absolutely no different then any DSLR camera. So, you don't haw to get a bachelor degree of photography to operate and shoot with this camera. Your advantage is easy operation, and able to use any, I say, any Nikon Nikkor lenses, back to 1950s. Never mind the brightest viewfinder of any Nikon cameras. So, where is the problem? Tell me.</p>

<p>Please don't call me "nostalgic" but, when I go over to my friend place for a tea, and see his computer running a slide show, with he's images, He try to impress me, I'm not impressed at all. But when he pulling out of the drover a bunch of 35-45 years old photos, prints, I really get exited. When I see prints hanging somewhere on the wall, framed os just mounted, mat-boarded, I like to spend long minutes to enjoy the image. When I see those millions of images on the monitor only, it is, or, they are no value to me. I would like to see a yellowed print or a slightly discolored print, a real photography on paper or what ever material, then a digital form inside of a computer, displayed only on the monitor, It has no value to me. Yes, those print's, they can be destroyed by water or a house-fire and so is your millions of digital image in a blink of an eyes on the next massive coronal discharge from the sun, or any serious lighting, or electrical "anomaly" effecting your storage devices, and in the long run, the obsolete digital form. I already haw a couple of external hard drive, which don't even start up in my new computer, when I used them lat time, 15-20 years, they where worked perfectly.<br /> I like the first image very much. I have seen those photographers all over the city in my younger age. Sometime, just standing there and watching as they developed the next image for the next client, whom received the image happily. Today, we do the "selfie". It is so ridiculous.<br>

You did a very god set of photographs, regardless of the wether, the lighting condition. Thank you for posting and showing to us.</p>

<p>I have the D3s, D4 and the Df. Most of the time I using the Df for several reason. The quality of the images better then from the D3s and the D4. If I like to move around to shoot, I grab the Df. It is a small body super camera and the lens I ge on it all the time, the wonderful sharp Nikon 28-50mm f/3.5 AI-S lens as a standard lens, like the 50mm prime in general. As I said, if I like to walk around light. I had a small shoulder bag, inside other then small accessories, a 20mm f/3.5 AI, a 135mm f/2.8 or a 200mm f/4 AI-S. I'm very happy with my Nikon Df.</p>

<p>The Nikon Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 ED ( I have 2 of them ) has a focusing and aperture to set. Not to much need for a user manual. It is a manual lens with a traditionally made, usable strong tripod collar, metal, sharp, last for ever, and contrasty lens. All of them, including the 300/4.5ED has a very lose focusing ring. No problem.</p>

<p>I don't know. . . . I have to many first, and like them all. Zorkij-C, Werra, Practica, Nikon S2, Nikon F, all the way to F5, except the F4, I never own. Mybe the FA, because I used so much all around the world and newer failed on me. Still working.</p>

<p>Using 2 monitors, main for the image; EIZO Color Edge CG 246, ( build in color calibrator ) and a smaller for the menus, searching, email etc. a LaCie photon20vision. The EIZO is a mile away beter then the LaCie. </p>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p>I haw the 180/2.8 AI-S version. It is a real all metal lens including a very convenient telescopic hood, and the images are sharp, colorful and contrasty. It is better then my new 70-200/4 VR, which I almost, never using. If I need a 200mm rage, I would rather use one my several prime 200mm f/4. Also a razor sharp lens, all the way back to the non AI Nikkor-Q and Q.C. and the small 200/4 AI-S. For the 105mm f/2.5 I use the old Nikkor-P. All of them factory AI converted. They are all very sharp lenses. I hate plastic.</p>

<p>I had all the Nikons from the F to the F5, exempt the F4 and the F100. Happy user of my F3 bodies then jumped to the F5. Never had a problem using all of my AI lenses and the new AF lenses. It was heavy, but, I liked this way, specially when I used longer lenses. I needed the stability, shooting hand held. In the main time, the FM-2 and FE-2's was with me and used all the time. And I still use them.</p>

<p>Nikon D4, Nikon 50-135mm f/3.5 AI-S. See EXIF data.</p><div></div>