glen peterson
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Posts posted by glen peterson
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Mine is only used for black and white(in a homemade camera), then developed myself. No lab problems, and I have yet to fog the film noticeable.
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On my rollex, the take up spool only turns in the opposite direction. Thus the film is on the the take up spool inside out after shooting a roll. This bothered me at first, but I just unload the back in the dark.
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A long time ago someone posted a printable focussing scale for the MKII. I downloaded it, but never tried it out.
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The JASC software, will not support images over 24 bits. Photoshop versions 5.5 and above will, and I know there are other software programs, I just cant think of the at the time. I've never worked with fuji lab.
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Sorry, but i can't read german. As far as I've heard, this scanner may come with software dust and scratch removal, but it lacks the IR channel to detect this the way that ICE does.
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in a financial pinch, I used a CHEAP quantaray(Trigger voltage near 300v) from Ritz $35, and a home made safe synch(Total ~ $3), on a D30. The flash Swivels, and works fairly well. I posted my synch design on a previous thread. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0094Of
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I wouldn't say that I really suggest, or recommend this, but it was fun. This came from another Thread.
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The camera that I show here is actually a model 150 Very similar to the Model 95. The other camera is another project. I seem to put these things together, try them once or twice then move on to something else. I just have fun doing it.
www.glenandmandie.com/hmmade/hmmade.htm
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As far as the view camera went, I actually made two. One I just cut the bellows only out of a polaroid, I didn't use the rest of the camera. For the other, with a Roll Fill back. I took off the back pieces off of the camera, ground some glass from a picture frame for the ground glass focussing, used some foam for light seal, and an OOOLD rollie 6x9 film back. I still have it, I will post some pictures later.
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Funny thing happened to me a few years back. I was entertaining the idea of photographing some weddings. I went to my cousins wedding, and took my gear(Two canon Eos film bodies). Asked the Pro if she minded me taking pictures with her, and learning a little. So I shadowed her(stayed out of the way) and shot most of the same shots. I also took many family candids. Anyway, the pro or the lab ended up LOSING the negatives, and my cousin was a tad bit more than greatful that I actually had the pictures, and I guess I saved the day.
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I have found a couple of uses for these camera. First of all the lenses/shutters aren't that good. I placed b&w photo paper in the back and exposed 'paper negatives'(interesing effect). To do this you have to use bulb for about 3 sec. to get an acceptable exposure. But that takes a few tries to get right. I have also taken them apart, to use the bellows to make a home made enlarger(worked fairly well), and a home made View camera(also worked well). If it were a Polaroid 110a/b, with a better lens and shutter, you could have it converted into a view camera. I also tried to put an old 120 6x9 roll film back on one, and got bored with the experiment. And the most useful thing that I've ever used these cameras for, was getting a matching set to use as bookends.
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I can't quite remember this clearly, but didn't the DCS 620 take a PCMCIA memory card? I could be wrong, but, If so those are a little hard to find.
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The manual I have is actually for the DW58 model. The instructions for use are the same. I posted the scans at.
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Sorry for the delay, I should be able to scan the manual this weekend.
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by the way, I have an english version and a french version. I don't speak french, but if you do, you could have the french version.
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You could look for the Rebel 2000 manual, they are the same.
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I'm not sure what the differences are between the 700 and 750 models. but a few years ago I bought a 750 which is almost a point and shoot slr. with a 50mm 1.8 MK1. the lens is what I was really after, for $40.US. The camera however had the dreaded 'sticky shutter'. This gave the appearance of only 'Half Frames'. You might thry cleaning the shutter and run a roll of film through it. I ended up giving the camera away to my mother, who loves it.
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Although it doesn't work perfectly, when filling small holes and scratches, I have had better luck with sawdust mixed with a little elmers glue. After sanding it looks a bit better than comercial wood filler, but it still doesn't absorb stains and finishes as well as the surounding area.
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I have an old dw48 with a manual. Mine works quite well, I will try to find the manual and scan it for you. By the way if the needle does not move when pionted at the light, thats not a good thing. Another thing, these are old meters, not very sensative, and not good at all for low light.
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First the toilets flush differently, now this... I guess I'll just have to stay in the northern hemisphere when going to the bathroom or taking pictures.
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When measuring with a multimeter, The 'trigger voltage' will be constant. As the circuit is closed(flash triggered) the voltage will actually drop momentarily, as the flash recharges. At least this is the way the flashes I've tested work. Use a safe synch if you can, better safe than sorry.
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No examples at this time. But a few years ago, I was experimenting with c41 BW. At the same time my wife was shooting with color film, and we ended up with a few nearly identical shots.
I scanned all the negatives, and thought it would be interesting to see if I could convert the color to B&W, and make it look 'as good'. I found that this could be easily done(In my opinion).
However, I still prefer the look of Trix and other conventional B&W Films to either of these. I wouldn't rule that option out either. I don't use c41 b&w anymore.
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Ron,
I'm afraid to let EK, or any other film manufacturer know of any problems. This for the fear that they might discontinue even more film types. :( . Michael is right about the lettering, I have noticed this mostly with the Cheap Maco film that I stocked up in. It doesn't affect the pictures, and looks the same in several of my cameras.
Light meter not responding
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