glen peterson

You could try getting one of those cheap cable releases for the 10d on ebay, about $25. then cut the wire in the middle, splice in some more wire to get to the length you want.

35mm?

I got a Bulls-eye recently, the gold model with a flash. I just finished shooting my first roll with it. I plan on developing them tonight, and hope they look as good as your shots.

If you get the grip, the shoe is HOT, you wouldn't need a synch cable there. I have used several different flashes with mine, and they have all worked.

Erick,

 

yes, that unit with a 40gb, is exactly what I got.

It works pretty good so far.

I'll try to find it again, but I found a webpage that described how to open one up. Once I got inside, I was on my own, and just tried to figure it out. I got the prism for almost nothing, and figured, if I really screw it up, I'll just use it like my other non-metered prism. But I got lucky and it works great.

Erick,

 

Check Ebay. Here is one from the guy I got mine from. Although he has only a 20GB in this one. He has had them with 20,30, and 40 in the past.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18871&item=7504941518&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Robert,

 

I too, love this lens. With a little one of my own, I did find the need to use an 85mm and 135mm lens(s), as he reached the todler stage. Little ones just love to reach for the lens when you get up close. Now that My son is a little older, and understands whats going on with the camera, I use my 50mm a lot more. He should understand, between my wife and I the poor kid must think his parents have cameras attached to their heads.

 

Enjoy the lens and Little Maddie.

if your lens is mounted on the camera, look at the bottom of the lens. near the mount. It is very faint.

I have the same Flash HD 40gb(Ebay for $110). I also bought a second 30gb laptap hard drive. It's really easy to change the hard drive in this thing. I haven't used it too extensively, yet, but for now it is working fine for my compact flash cards, and my wifes SD cards.

I recently repaired one of these, and I now remember, that inside the front of the prism, there are two (power switch wires). They come of the contacts that connect to the camera body. One goes into the prisms board, and the other to the button on the front. The one that goes to the prism MAY be broken. In fixing the one that I have, I found that the soldered connections were not very durable. (Mine had three broken connections inside) But easily fixable if you dare opening the the thing up. I am no repairman, and this is just a thought, and I hope it helps.

the bonus speed on my sp500 tested very close to 1/1000, I just can't seem to find the exact speeds from that test.

Another question, when you are using A mode, is the shutter speed controlled accurately? In A mode the shutter should fire at the speed indicated in the viewfinder, and not the dial.

After rereading your post, I see the center point reference, then recomposing. I'd bet the center of the images refocussed.

according to your exif info. you had CF-13 set to 2, this is for selecting autofocus points. Without seeing the original files in EVU, I cannot tell which AF points were selected. You might want to check which point(s) were selected.

Just looked at my 50 1.8, and my 28 2.8. When in MF the 50 turns really easily, the 28 is slightly more tense, but no problem. In AF the 50 locks. and the 28 spins freely. I don't think there is a problem. As long as it does what it's supposed to in AF and in MF.

the Metz 45 ct-1 is a very old flash. but similar to other models. Some of the Newer 45 ct-1's actually have a very low trigger voltage. The older models have about 220v of voltage, but anyway, the manuals are much harder to find than newer stuff. but try...

 

http://www.metz.de/en/photo_electronics/manuals.164.html

Henry,

 

I just saw your other post in the other thread. I just thought I'd elaborate a little more on the screen. First of all, the 135-n back, will only take the picture within the center square. If it were the 135-w version the area would be the entire width of the frame, but I'm sure you already know that. The second thing is, the center frame in the drawing shows only 23mm x 34mm. I think this is pretty standard being slightly smaller than the actual image. The entire size of my screen is 52.5mm x 40mm. For 6x4.5 film. I don't have a 135 back, but I wish I did sometimes. Have fun. One last thing. You might try drawing in the lines with pencil, I just have a feeling that it would be easy enough to see, and also easy to remove if you wanted.

Here is a drawing of the screen that I have. The lines are centered on the GG screen. I hope it makes sense. I was having some Jpg conversion problems, so this is a screen shot.

 

http://www.nebraskahusker.com/cams/screen.jpg

you could mark your screen, or get the screen designed for this back with the lines predrawn on it.

When I just opened the picture in EVU. I could see where the autofocus points were, and it is definitely the background that was focussed. I don't think there is anything wrong with the lens, just keep an eye on the autofocus confirmation lights when shooting.

Many of these microdrives are bought cheap in bulk by the sellers. If you look on the bay, you can find the hitachi models really cheap. I bought a couple of 1g hitachi's for $40 each, and I'm pretty sure the seller made some profit on them. I bought them at the buy it now price.

Another thing, KEH's definition of BARGAIN, is usually better than what many ebayers call mint.

I posted this a while back. It is for the DW58, but I think they are probably similar.

 

www.glenandmandie.com\DW8man\Manual.htm

If we see the damage that the suns UV rays in the extreme end of the blue wavelength are doing to our bodies cells, maybe no one will go outside anymore.....