glen peterson

First of all, I'd check the voltage of the flash. Second, it sounds like you have a polarity reversal on the flash. There have many threads regarding the voltage issues, that is what I would worry about most. Most newer(lower voltage) manual flashes should work with this camera, but you won't be able to use any in camera flash metering. A flash meter might be your next investment.

I've done this, and it has been talked about, to some extent in the BW Film formum. My developing time was more like 30-40 minutes, and the pictures looked a little better. This one was taken on Tmax 400.<div></div>

The Diopter is probably what they meant by eye corrective lens...

I tried a little experiment a while back. I have a 3170, and an old HP scanner with a 5"x5" light source. I used the light source from the HP and scanned a 4x5 negative on 3170. The 3170's light source just wasn't wide enough. It worked OK, but not much better than the Old HP, which isn't that great.

I have an ETRS and ETRSi, and with the AEII, the exposure info lights up when you press the shutter release halfway down. In addition to when you press the button. In A mode the shutter will fire at the speed that is displayed.

No paper backing on 220.....thats how it fits on the same size roll as 120.

I have the 1270 model still(for about 4years now) it uses the same inks. These printers were designed to be used fairly often. When mine sits idle for anything more than a day or two, I do nozzle checks and head cleaning. You will use up a little more ink, but the prints are worth it.

I'd go with static electricity. It (might) not fry the camera, but will cause it to attract even more dust. Working in an industry that is dependent on sensative electronics. You should see the voltages that a static arc can generate. I won't take such a chance with my investments.

Not absolutely sure, just a question, but aren't the EV values of the Polaroid 95 based on an ISO of 3000? or some other ungodly number.

Do you think that it would cover 4x5 with the tubes? I like the idea of the long focal length, but have shyed away knowing that it was on the longish side for my 4x5 speeds.

I only have a Lubitel Universal, that I bought new a few years ago. The Focussing is somewhat of a chore. The Contrast is not that good.

 

Is the Lubitel 2 much better?

Several years ago, I could really relate to your situation. Unfortanately, this Disease spreads. If you are married, well, I hope you spouse understands. Mine does sometimes, other times I hear, 'what do you need that for?!!!'

 

"Hello, My name is Glen, and I am a cameraholic, It's been three days sinces I've bought a camera. Uh oh I mean three seconds." There is no 12 step program, as far as I know.....

I have one of the old polaroid EV meters, it's really small, attaches to the accessory attachment on polaroid cams. Mine is very accurate(compared to other meters). At one point I bought one of those cheap $5 LUX meters, and made a chart to convert the LUX readings to EV, complete with Aperture settings, and exposure times. Still have the XLS file.

Darn, I read the title, and was thinking Ontario California. That I would be able to go to.

Faster lens...

 

Which lens(s) are you currently using?

I used to have an old pentax angle finder, for my spotmatic. If I remember correctly I used it on my older eos cameras.

Someone posted this the other day. A tutorial, that works pretty well. http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html . Scroll down to advanced masking.

By the way, I love all the viewfinders, that I have. Waistlevel, generic prism, AE prism, and AEII prism. Before I bought my first bronica, Several years ago, I was strictly a 35mm shooter. And if that is a point of comparison, The viewfinders will impress you.

I have both an ETRS and an ETRSI. They both use the AEII quite well, mine seems very acurate. I do not have a compatible flash for the ETRSI's TTL flash metering. I use a separate Flash meter on both cameras, so it has never been a problem. I have only had an AEII for a few of months, Used Waist level, or meterless prism before. But it does make life a little easier. I also have recently purchased an old AE prism, and it seems to work fine with both cameras. I've heard that the AEIII prism, includes spot metering, and is more accurate. But, If I need to be that spot on, I will use a hand held meter that I really trust.

A while back someone asked about converting an old polaroid to a view camera. I had done this several years ago, so I posted some pictures of it on the internet, and they are still there.

 

http://www.glenandmandie.com/hmmade/hmmade.htm

 

I took the entire back off, and attached an old rollex 120 film adapter.

Also, Remember that the name of the state capital is pronounced 'PEER'.

 

From a former resident of north central Nebraska...

I was making a clock a few years ago, with a photo. To make it stand out, I used a clear self leveling Epoxy. I think it was designed for countertops. I laid it on about 1/8 inch thick, and it came out really smooth. I'll try to remember what the stuff was actually called.

Noone mentioned Wall Drug. Is it still there?

On the original AE finder. THe button on the front will light up the leds on the inside of the viewfinder, to let you know what shutter speed will be used. on the later AE11 finder these leds, come on when you press the shutter release halfway, or press the button on the viewfinder.

This came up a couple of years ago. There was some advice for a quick fix.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006FGE