glen peterson

For the price, you can't go wrong with the 50mm 1.8.. I doubt you will be disappointed. I love mine, and know many others who swear by it.

MP's on digital cameras are not as important as some think. I once printed a 1.4mp image from an old digital camera(Olympus d-600) at 10x13, and it was beautiful, and gets many compliments hanging on my wall. Even though it was printed at abt. 97dpi, the only way you can tell its digital is by really looking close at the cats whiskers. I have also printed 8x10 pictures from 4mp cameras that look like hell... Many will say that prints REQUIRE 300dpi, but I don't really buy that, it seems that every picture, as well as camera will give different results. Besides no one is really going to be looking at you prints through a loup.

I'm not sure about this particular lens, but it is likely a t-mount(Guess) but it could be m42. Adapters for both of these are always availible on the auction site. by the way, it is kind of hard to tell the difference between these two. they are both 42mm but the t mount is a .75mm thread, and the m42 is a 1mm thread. hope this helps.

FOllow up, EPS on PSP7 is also on PSP8, I think you can still download a trial of PSP8 from JASC. But it does have to be used in very low levels, between 2-5, otherwise things end up looking very fake..

There is a feature on Paint Shop pro 7, which I keep on my pc still, that is call Edge Preserving Smooth. This has helped me alot in the past with grain, and although it does some blurring, it isn't as bad as you might think.

I'm sure that it would work fine with a fast enough lens you might get away with backing of on 'film/sensor' speed IE800.

Automatic modes.. Check your white balancing...Just a thought.

I regularly get very good results with Tmax 400 in D76 1:1 and in Tmax dev 1:4. When using Vuescan to scan the negs, I have found that the underexposed, as well as the over exposed frames are easier to scan as Black and White Negatives. Maybe it's my technique, or lack there of... I am trying to post a picture of my son. Tmax 400 in D76 1:1.

I tried this one, it works pretty well...

 

http://www.hiviz.com/tools/triggers/triggers2.htm

What I did was take the old slide, split the cardboard, sandwich the strip so that the negative that I was scanning was exposed, then placed the whole thing into the slide holder. I couldn't do it on the film scanner that I have now(slide holder won't allow this), but it worked on my old film scanner. I would think that a flatbed slide carrier would make it possible.

What I have done, is use an old 126 2x2 slide to hold the negative in the slide holder rather than the 35mm neg holder. I used a different scanner, but it worked well.

Have had this problem with 2 older EOS cams. if you look at the shutter you will see a black oily substance, causing it to stick. I now clean my shutters regularly. The Oil will come back.

I had the same problem with the Status Monitor on my 1270 when i got my new computer. It had always worked fine before.

It could depend on the way the person printed the photos. I have had 4x6's at the 2/3 ratio that had been cropped significantly(sometimes as much as 20%), as well as in a random pattern. This usually happens at the 1hr places, but I have had this happen at "good" pro shops as well. Didn't realize it until I started scanning my own film. I had always thought that it was my fault for not getting the picture framed the way i thought it would be. I do wear glasses.

If getting a DSLR, the next thing you will need to invest in is glass. Your results will depend on that.

As far as learning goes, There is no comparison to how quick you will learn. I can't tell you how often I couldn't remember what settings(Apo,exp,etc.) I had used when going through my film results, thus i seldomly learned. Now with digital, instant feedback, as well as exif info. I have learned a ton... and have successfully transfered it back to film as well as the digital I shoot.

I wouldn't be too turned off by the color rendition of your uncles digicam. If you scan your own film, you already know how to work around that.

Fireproof safe seems like it would still get hot enough to melt or at least warp the CD/DVD's.

5 or 6 months ago I got one on the Auction site for $500. The seller mentioned that the built in flash was broken. I had canon flashes, so I got it. When I recieved the Camera, the flash worked fine. Since then I've taken Abt. 4000 pictures, No problem.

I do it with Black and White. For this it can be done very easily. I invested about $25 in a tank and several film reels, 120 and 35. bought the Chemicals at a local store ~$40. Process the film in the bathroom(light tight fortunately), some people load the film in a dark closet, or a changing bag. after that just process the film. When done film is scanned on a film scanner which I already have. I can print them on my printer, or take them, to a shop, to have wet prints made.

Chris,

 

I went through the same process a few years back when the D30 came out. At that time 3000$ was a bit more than I would have like to spend, so I went with a film scanner. The benefit of the film scanner at that time, was 1)cost. I bought an Acer 2740, at ~$350. and 2) I was able to scan film that I already had in storage. Over the next year, I scanned thousands of negs/slides. Going back to ones that my parents had from the 50's maybe earlier.

Eventually I did buy a used DSLR, and a new film scanner. So I now enjoy both worlds..

Pick what is best for you, I just wanted to share my experience.

 

By the way, if there were a Digital Rebel at $900 at the time I made my choice, I would likely have chosen the Rebel.

You're right, just tried, and it doesn't. But since I use Raw image converter 2(D30) mostly, it works on network drives whether mapped or not.

You might try Mapping the network drive, as a drive letter. This might work.