Palouse

<p>Try some paste wax, either wood wax or auto wax. Several coats buffed in well. </p>

<p>This site may help: http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/microsite/picturecontrol/</p> <p>scroll down too. It's more than the movie.</p>

<p>I submitted the picture to the Cornell Merlin Bird ID app (http://merlin.allaboutbirds.org/photo-id-help/)<br> and it identified it as: Yellow-rumped Warbler (Winter/juvenile Audubon's)</p> <p>So some of you are in good company! </p>

<p>I don't use mine enough to justify the upgrade. Maybe when I retire in 15 months :-) </p>

<p>Sadly, I agree. But then, it does beat the alternative of walking over to each flash in turn! Wonder why it was left off the Odin, but came back on Odin II? </p>

<p>Yeah, it's not a one-button affair, but it is easy.</p> <p>Press the Selection button [sEL] to cycle through groups A, B, or C. </p> <p>The Mode button will let you pick from TTL, (M) Manual, or Off functions. (Off is shown by three dashes/underscores _ _ _). Fast Exit by pressing the Power Button.<br> DONE.<br> Or spend the $$s for the new Odin II. </p>

<p>Thanks, but it doesn't answer my question. Unless of course, you can give me the $500-600 it would take to make the switch.</p>

<p>I use the Phottix Odin system (the original, not the newly released version II) on a Nikon D810 with 2 SB800s. I've be using them much more lately and have come up with a couple of puzzlers. <br /><br />1. For the life of me I cannot get the zoom head to change via the control unit. Yes, I can get it to auto zoom as I change focal length on my zoom, but I cannot make a manual change for the control unit.<br />2. Sometime the flash reports ISO 200, when I am at 64. Not sure what is happening.<br /><br />So if any of you Phottix Odin fans, especially with SB800 experience would chime in and , er, ahem-- illuminate me <img title="Smile :)" src="http://www.nikoncafe.com/xenf/styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" alt=":)" /></p>

<p>For those of you needing to balance the 200-500 on a gimbal here is something inexpensive that helps (or make your own): http://www.jobu-design.com/Jobu-Hockey-Puck_p_91.html<br> I have only sued my 200-500 on a monopod or tripod; my hand-holding has been limited to playing with it in my backyard. I walk with it cradled in my arms.</p>

<p>As was mentioned, set the ND filter aside for now. The aperture limit is a function of the lens you have, not the camera. To achieve your desired blur try different focal lengths on your zoom lens (it goes from 18 to 135 mm) but keep your aperture pegged at the widest (f 4.5). Yes, learning to recognize the clutter in the scene is a skill that will come with time--it is great that you learned this so early in your endeavors! </p>

<p>If Sam's fix didn't work, I was about to suggest a cure: Nikon D500 :)</p>

<p>I find it interesting that the longest section of the "product overview" is the list of all the languages the D750 can handle! Telling, very telling! Stay away, stay away. This is All hype and marketing.</p>

<p>I thought long and hard and I believe the best camera for your needs and budget is a smartphone. Samsung has a great camera, including a selfie one. <br> Happy shooting, and call when you find nirvana!</p>

<p>Well, Photo.net has done a lot for me: stroked my ego, ruffled my feathers, pissed me off, made my blood boil, challenged me, enlightened me and more. Above all it has answered my many questions, most of which I never even knew to ask. <br> It's an archive and a refuge of knowledge. Thank you.</p>

<p>I love my 100. As the others have said, it clunks, churns, and huffs and puffs, but then it spits out perfect prints. Yes, it can be sensitive to empty paper trays, wrong sized paper, etc., but by golly, it turns out works of art--for my 100, the equivalent of less that $200. Stunning!<br> Patience grasshopper. . . . :)</p>

<p>Yes, especially landscape and nature work. Probably less so when I do the very rare social shoot for a friend. I can very easily lose my self in thought, what psychologists call flow, when I'm out by myself shooting landscapes. </p>

<p>Sarah, I've had that happen to me several times. A very, very, very light hand while turning and twisting and jiggling the cap has always worked for me.</p>

<p>When shooting in live view do you have the eye piece shutter closed? If not, that may be letting in extra light to upset the exposure. </p>

<p>Look at the toolbox menu (right) as see what boxes are check (they will show blue if they are). Click on the customize pane (top left) wait for the program to work ( a few seconds) and then press and hold the compare button which will toggle you between original and corrected versions.</p>

<p>Here is very good explanation and illustration of what clarity, and the other picture control do:<br> http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/microsite/picturecontrol/</p>

<p>Google dot tune method. It is a simple way of calibrating auto focus by using live view as the standard. </p>

<p>A couple of questions: What shutter release mode are you using--AF-S or AF C? And how do you have the shutter release button configured -- release or focus?</p>

<p>I suppose a "test" of the OP's truth hypothesis would be for a panel to correctly identify the 6 personas being portrayed - but without knowing what the possibilities were. Otherwise all we have are 6 interpretations of the 1 guy.</p>

<p>For me it's the fix for file numbers not being assigned in the proper sequence--I thought it was a glitch in my software!</p>