rothelle

Hello John;-)

I have been using the Sidekick film processor now about 3 years and have had my film process in it longer than I own it. I got my unit from a friend who had it in their photo lab for a $100 because they had to many of them as they want to update with some digital toys. I didn't want to be stuck with only using Tmax developer in it as I was use to HC-110, Microdol-X, Zonal Pro and D76 at a temp of 68 degrees. I test just about all the film that I like, Tri-X, Plus, Agfa when they were around, Tmax 100/400, HP5+, FP4+, Deltas 100/400, Neopan 100/400, Bergger 200, Foma's, Efke and Arista. From 120 to 4x5 sheet. They all worked fine in this unit and my temp is much higher at 75 degrees. Some will say that it's not good at all but to tell you the truth my negs are great and print fine and I think are better than they were at 68. I don't have any problem with grains unless I want grains and then I mix up a grain deveolper that will give me what I'm looking for. I then move on to Pyro because a friend of mine wanted to see what this developer can do. Pyro work in my unit like if I was using Tmax or HC-110. I once proce both Tri-x/HP5+ both shot at 400 ISO and roll them up and devleoped them in the same tank for 5 minues using 510 Pyro and the results were great. And then roll another set of Tri-x/HP5+ and used Tmax righ after. After playing with all the film with 510 Pyro, PMK and WD2D+, I made PMK my main Pyro developer because it's easy to mix and use right before developing my film. I do not use it like they say to. I mix it 10ml:20ml:500ml instead of 100ml of water. I get better stain and my negs are great. For HP5+ my times are 5 minutes at 75 degrees. The same for Pan F. I rate all my film at their film speed and I do not rate them lower. I learn to metter and work with my films at their box speed. I tried others test and learn that what work for them is for them and plus when I visit a few of them and saw their prints in real life it, was lifeless, flat, no rich tone or a black & white print that interest me at all. The Sidekick has been a great help with me and keep me more into the darkroom when I know I just load the film and push what time I want and everything is all mix and all I need to do is just mix what developer I want to use for that film. I walk away and when I return I then hang and dry my film. You can always contact me as I develop at lease 3 times a week. I didn't care for WD2D+ as it was a waste of my time and money. Sorry. Just didn't like it as much as PMK and 510 Pyro. 510 Pyro is the best Pyro I have use ever and dose last a long time and you will get great result but I don't like mixing all the stuff and it take some time to make and I don't want to spen more than I have to for developer that I can get at a great price to process film. Others love to do that and that is fine with me and that what make this so much fun. I get the result I want with any film and even I have read Tmax 100 suck but for me when I tested it I had great stains and the negs were great and easy printing. But I love my Tri-X, Plus-X, Delta 100 and HP5+ anything other than that is second in line.<div></div>

Wigwan,

Maybe not that rude or rude at all but I learn people on this site are like babies and they cry about anything. Most post comments and when you go to look at their profile they do not have any info about them or photos or a site to see any of their work. We are the front mens with our neck on the line and being look at the rolemodel. That's what a few other been emailing me so I want drop their names. But I know people still think Afga is not dead. Agfa is dead and Forte is going to be next. Those are the factsand it's doesn't matter to me if you like to hear it or not. Just give them time. Most like that type of drama but the truth will soon be. I was just stating to a few of my friends that I'm down to the last 20 sheets of my 4x5. After that It's gone. Also I fine that Rollei Retro is not worth $9.69 for a roll of 120 or $19.99 for 10 sheets of 4x5;-)When I have great film like Tri-X, Plus-X, Hp5+, FP4+, Deltas, TMax, NeoPan at a price that is still good. But that's me. But thank you for youe fast reply and also comments and letting them know of the update of Agfa.<div></div>

I think we all know that Agfa is dead so when you leave a post of my posting be nice to others as they like to share their info. No need to to be rude.

I order from Freestyle but it take a few months before your order is ready. I have learn to cut my own from 4x5 and it's very easy to do and plus I can use any of my favorite films at any given time and not only stuck with Efke films.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002044<div></div>

Down to the last 20 sheets of 9x12 that I had cut from 4x5 of 1995. This film

is still good and now I'm very picky to what and who I will use it on;-(.<div></div>

All the above and you will love this machine. Your negatives are going to get so much better. I load up two 120 onto the film reels and set the time and walk away to do other things;-) I have use it also with other film developers so you just don't have to stick with TMax. You can always contact me. I had my Sidekick for 3 years now but been using it for about 6 because my best friend own 4 photo labs and they have 2 in each lab and were using it for B&W only and then he gave it to me for a $100;-) After I got it I sent my board to PhotoTherm to get and upgrade and now I can do E6, C41 and B&W. I can process 4 rolls of 35mm 2 rolls of 120 and 4 sheets of 4X5. Good luck with it and let us know asap how is it working for you.

I have use an RB67/RZ67 for many years before trading them in for my Pentax 67. They were great cameras and love them in the studio. I took them on location from time to time for a few hand held projects but didn't like the way I had to hold them. I ended up buying a 645 AFD and that work better. I still wasn't happy with that size of a negative. I got me a 7II and that was just ok but not what I wanted. I used my friend Pentax for two weeks and I ended up buying it from him. That was the camera that did it for me. I took this thing to China, France, Italy, and used it for streets, landscape and in the studio. It's heavy but I like that because I can take sharper photos because it not light like some of these guys that are crying it's to heavy. I can hold this thing steady. I have some very sharp photos taken with it at 1/15. The 105 lens is my favorite for streets and 150 for the studio/landscape. KEH has great bodies and lenes very cheap and they are the way to go before you jump on ebay crap.

http://www.mamiya.com/home.asp

Kodak 127 pocket vest, Kodak 620 folding, 4x5 Crown, 9x12 Voigtlander

and 1 mini;-D<div></div>

I own two of the older Pentax 67 with MLU;-) One is like brand new with the 105mm lens and the other I got off ebay with a prism finder for $100.00 and I went to KEH and got me a 150mm len for about the same price;D. These cameras are like a tank and love them and I use to have an RB/RZ and they are both great too. and I once had the RZ batteries go out on me in a studio shoot. I ended up getting rid of that camera but the RB is a great studio camera and I beat the hell out of it and it never let me down. But when I got my hand on a Pentax I felt in love with this camera. You can buy a use body on KEH and I would replace the one you have. It seem that that body or the person who's doing the rework is not getting the job done. Bodies are cheap now. Just about everything in my profile is shot with the Pentax 67 and my next step is to buy the 67II. I want self timer and to do double exposure. I rented the 67II and find that these are very good cameras with a great feel. If you need a good repair shop let me know and I'll send you the info of two of them. Rothelle.<div></div>

Never heard of thenm as they are in the Bay Area not to far from me as I see the address. I still wouldn't buy film from them it doesn't seem like a deal to me. Price is still kind of high.

So Shamrock is a rock bottom deal.

Funny I find that Tri-X, Plus-X, Hp5+ and Fp4+ stains the best out of all the films I had use. I'm now usin PMK and this is a great staining developer.

Another photo and were I had left both filters back at the place were I was staying. Oh well you make do with what you got. Plus-X<div></div>

2003 I got a chance to visit a friend for a month who lives their. I took two cameras with me and all my film were hand check and the people are great and the food, mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm! I had took Ilford Pan F+, FP4+, HP5+, Tri-X, Plus-X, NeoPan 100/400, Kodak 160NC, and 10 rolls of slide film. All of this was 120. I was very happy to bring my film as I did bring a lot but I look at it like this. Film is much cheaper then a trip that you may only see once in a life time. I did go to a few odd camera shops but were very happy to bring the film that I did. I would also take two filters with you. A red and a polarizing. I would pack light and buy more film then you think you would need. It's hard to find good film unless you like the Gold 200. I rather have some of the Arista then nothing;-)You can always shoot what you don't use at home.<div></div>

Yes you are on the right track with this developer. This is my #1 developer for many years and I use it sock and also 1:3 and the result are just great. Tri-X and Plus-X are my two favorite films from it. I learn this from a close family member who use to shoot 35mm Tmax and show me 16X20 prints that would knock your sock off your feet. I use 120 and large format films these days and very happy with the result. I use it a a higher temp of 75 F. But also had great result at lower temp. I still have a few old cans that I'm using with today's films and also use the new package and can't tell what's what.

Zeiss-Ikon model 250/3<div></div>

But my model is 250/3.

Pico That's it;=D

95% of my work is shot with the Pentax 67 MLU model. I have never use the camera in mlu mode and have hand held it at 1/15 and never had a problem with camera shakes. This camera is heavy and that is what I like about it that I can hold it steady. About them lens, I would get the 105 which is a great lens to have. I have the 105/150 and they are both great lens. You are going to have to get use to the flash at 1/30 or lower unless you buy the leaf shutter flash sync at all speeds. I have not had any problem with slow sync even when working with models. I just love this camera and I want to thank digital photography for coming out because now I get to play with cameras that I only dream about;D.<div></div>

Sorry for the miss-spelling. It's now 2:56am. Now I'm going to bed.<div></div>

My model is a Zeiss-Ikon model # 250/3 and the # inside the lens area F 76745 could be S# of the camera. it also has a back the open with ground glass like my 9x12 camera that I still use and cut my favorite film for it. But not I want to start using this camera. Everything is in ment shape.<div></div>

Thanks Pico Digoliardi for the fast reply. Yes I'm looking fot the nut to the back of the lens.

Rothelle.

Looking for a lens locking ring to connect the bellow with the lens, I have a

Zeiss-Ikon F4.5 10.5cm and also looking for some 6x9 film holders. Any help

would be great.

Thanks.

(Rothelle,

You have posted a lot of pictures and I must say you are an extremely excellent photographer in my opinion.

 

Now for a technical question. I know you use a PhotoTherm film processor. Do you have a favored developer or film/developer combination, and do you generally shoot your film at box speed?}

Alan thnak you for your comments. My favorite combination has to be Kodak Tri-x and Plus-X with microdol-X. I love this mix with my films and have some lovely print from it even before I got my sidekick. Second will have to go with HC-110 and then third TMax Developer. I have also play with the pyro's but I all ways end up using Microdol-X no mater what. I rate all my film at box spedd as I use to do the 1/2 speed and the I just learn to meter and develop all my films at their box speed and I have been happy with the results. I have 3 developers in my darkroom. Microdol-X, HC-110 and PMK. As you know we process at a temp of 75 degrees so my film is developed in minutes. Yoou can always email me if you need more info.

Rothelle;D<div></div>

Both film are great portrait for studio and location. Delta 100 is my main outdoor portrait film. You get some of the most rich and beautiful prints from it. I also use Plus-X, Tri-X because I love the look you get from this old school film. I can beat the hell out of it and it never let me down no matter what type of lighting I'm in.Some time TMax 100. My #1 film is Tri-X. If you realy want to see what you like is to shoot them all and make prints and then you will know what you like. But if I were you I would stick with the two you are using now.<div></div>