rothelle

Alan,

Tmax developer was one of my first developer to replace D76. D76 is great but Tmax producess some of the best shadows I have seen in any developer. It dose very well at high temps and great for push and pull. As you know I am one who will use any developer I get at 75 even when others say don't. Easy mixing as needed and last a very long time. I have process every film just about with this developer and been very happy. It is a must have in my darkroom right along the side of his brothers and sisters, Microdol-X, HC-110 and Dektol.

Same as what Lynn has said. I love Plus-X and has also used it in PMK, HC-110, Zonal Pro and 510 Pyro. My favorite is Microdol-X and I have alway shot it at box speed or some time at ISO 100.<div></div>

More film's I push to the limits shorter times less then 5 minutes;-)<div></div>

Lynn,

I have not have any problems with my short times that I been using for years now and everything is the same as if I were doing it by hand at 68 degrees. I did lots of test 68 vs 75 and 10 minutes vs 3:30 minutes and the density has not change in any of my test. I have even made 20x30 size prints and love the way they have came out. My Sidekick process all my films now as I shoot 95% 120 roll film and 5% of odd size of large format and no longer work with 35mm. I never hand any uneven developing or density in my negatives. All I can say times shorter than 5 minutes works and if you look in my profile just about everything was develop under 5 minutes unless I'm using Microdol-X. I have a friend that every thing he dose is two minute and his work is outstanding.<div></div>

That's just my times for Tri-X with HC-110 (B) and love this combo.

I'm also using the same temp. In fact I use the temp with all my films in film developer in my Sidekick film processor. I love the fast developing times and my negs are all way coming out great. I use everything from Rodinal, PMK, HC-110, D76, Zonal Pro, 510 Pyro, WD2D+, Tmax, Xtol, Microdol-X and Acufine. Hell they all work and my negatives never had a problem with the high temp and short times. And films has been 35mm - 4x5;-0

Wow! And I thought my times were fast. You got me beat by one full minute. That's when I'm using HC-110 (B)and never had a problem with it.

To tell you the truth you should run a test yourself to see how it works for you and you only. That is the way you would know. Funny how some alway say it's slower but I find most of any film I had use at their box speed seem to work for me and I learn to process and meter at the film speed and nothing less. But that what work's for me. I would take a roll of Foma 200 and shoot it at speeds from 100-250 and make contact prints and you'll soon see what speeds is is close to what you think is right. Very simple and you will have your facts.

If it was my I would use PMK pyro developer, my second would be HC-110 and third TMax. But if I had to pick out of the two you have then D76 would win. Never gave a rat ass about any of Ilford developers or maybe it's just me. Kodak already nailed it most just copy cats. TMax has the best shadow, HC-110 is more like D76 and PMK is just out of this world. 12x16 should not be any problem from 35mm with PMK or TMax. I have some nice 16x20 that look good when I use to shoot 35mm. Like John said if you want big then Microdol-X. I have shot Plus-X, Tri-X, HP5+ and FP4+ with Microdol-X, HC-110, Tmax, PMK and I have great prints from them all.<div></div>

I would use D76 1:3 for 18 minutes at 68 degrees, I never care for FG-7 without the Sulfite.

Sorry I just can't do that. A lot of people may not like Kodak, but thats them. I love Kodak's product and will keep buying and using them until they are no longer made. You can not beat Tri-X, Plus-X, Tmax 100, Microdol-X, HC-110, TMax developer, D76. There are more products that I didn't even list. Color and slide films are good too. I don't think so;-0 If your not happy then you should find another film to use. But for now Kodak is my #1 film. I like Ilford too but not as much as Kodak. They make great papers. I also use Neopan too. But not more than Tri-X and Plus-X.

I should thank GOD were I live;-0 5 minutes or less to Keeble and Shuchat that has just about any film I need. and a 30 minute each way to San Francisco to Calumet;-0. I'm also a Kodak type of guy but also I will shoot Ilford and Fuji too.

The only way you are going to find out is to shoot it yourself. I would just use it on thing that are not so important. You should be ok. I still have film of Tmax dated from 1999 and loving it as it was made today. Same at my 320 Tri-X date back to 1989;-0. It's not like this is the last roll of film in the world;-0 If you don't trust it I would toss it and buy more dated film. That simple.

I also wanted to note that most of my shots with my Pentax 67 are hand held and I have hand held this camera at 1/15 but that's just me;-) Very very still and the result has been great.

I also have to go with Pentax 67. I use to have an RB 67 and also a RZ both cameras were great in the studio. When shooting in the field, it was a pain in the ass with the odd size box if I just wanted to take short walks and do some hand held stuff. After I sold them and got myself a P 67 I just can't see myself going back. This camera is great in the studio and out in the field. This is a must have camera when size dose matters. Now I want the 67II;-0 everything in my profile has been shot with a Pentax 67.

Yes you can roll 2 120 roll film onto a Paterson film reel and use in your sidekick. I do it all the time and for the last 3 years or so it's been working for me;-0 So I can process 4 rolls of 120 film at the same time;-0 I just tape both ends together and that is about it. As you already know by talking to Phototherm yourself. What a nice way to process your film;-0 I'll never give this unit up!

You can still get it at B&H for now: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=335&A=details&Q=&sku=18170&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

Hello Ann,

Tmax developer was my main developer for all my films before I started out using and finding the one I like best. It's still one of my favorite and I still use today. I use it at 75 degrees and I use it 1:5 for all my films. I process Tri-X and Plus-X in the same tank for 4.40 minutes and been doing this for years. I also have a film processor that keep all my temps the same. Here is a chart that will help you get going. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4018/f4018.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.19.20.16&lc=en. You will love this developer. The bottle that make 1 gallon at 1:4 I process 25 rolls of 120 ;-)But that's in my film processor. Good luck and I love that film by the way. I would also shoot some Tri-x too;-)

I had much of my luck here when I needed parts for some of my vintage cameras.

http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/pp/kodak/kodak.htm

Film Sheaths

Thanks Michael, I have read that article and also that is were I ended up buying my film holders with film sheaths. I did try cutting some 120 Tri-X and it was a pain in the ass because of the curls. I'm now sticking with cutting my 4x5 film and that work so much better. Like I said before I know I can get film for it. The choice of it I don't care that much for Efke film, so I will be sticking with my Tri-X, HP5+ and FP4+. I have everything and I'm happy so thank you all. I'm now having fun shooting and that's what it's all about. Later guys.

Rothelle.

If I were you I will just stick with HP5+ and Tri-X. These films are the best when it comes to the best of the best. They also make some great slower films too. Anything other than Ilford or Kodak are not worth the time. Yes they are cheap and it is what it is cheap;-) Not bad for playing around shoot things I don't care to much for. I find Ilford and Kodak price are not at all bad. Still under $4.00 a roll of 120. Photography or any hobby is not going to be cheap. I always heard you get what you paid for. Yes I have used Arista re-branded films and they are not up in the same level as the big ballers.

http://photoformulary.com/images/Silver_Conference_movies/Steven_Brierley.mov

You guys are crazy;-)

As I got my two new film holders with the film sheaths. I took a look at the back of them and look like you can use 6.5x9 film or 2 1/2 x 3 1/2.I cut my film to 6.5x9cm and work well. I know at Freestyle they sale both film. One for about $8.00 and the other for about $12.00. Has anyone use both size to see if any big gap? I like cutting my own because I like to use Tri-X, Hp5+ and Fp4+.

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=404&pid=1000001854

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=404&pid=1000002235

 

I don't have a problem cutting my film. I just wanted to know what others are using as for film size in their little 6.5x9 cameras. Has anyone tried cutting roll film? I just took a look and will see if I can tonight to see how that work out. I'll give you guys the update.<div></div>

Pico,

I just wanted to thank you for trying and it's ok I'm sure those parts will be needed some day.

Here is a nude shoot that I was working on today. Taking with the Zeiss-Ikon, one thing I like about this camera that it has a self timer so I never need a cable;-), Film was the last of my 4x5 Agfa 400 rated at 400 developed in PMK 10ml:20ml:500ml for 5 minutes at 75 degress.<div></div>

Just would like to thank you all for your help;-) I got all the missing parts

for the beautiful camera and took my first picture and developed in today;-)Cut

some of my old Agfa 400 and process it in PMK. I will be cutting more of my

favorite film tonight.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JzUh&tag=<div></div>