rothelle

When I do my long exposure with Tri-X and D76. I'm using 1:3 for 18 minutes. You are going to have to test it anyway. Try them both and see.

Don't forget the 105mm is a hot lens I also shoot with a 150mm and have a clean 67II and an old beat-up 6x7 that I use most of the time. Both cameras are great. They get the job done bottom line!<div></div>

Just re shoot a roll and make sure you are on key with everything. PMK is a wonderful developer. I love the way my Tri-X and Plus-X come out.<div></div>

You are better off using the times inside the box or Massive Dev Chart then trying to use others times. As you stated you don't have time and money to experiment. I found that's all you'll be doing is spending money and waisting time if you don't experiment yourself to find the ISO and development times for your style of shooting. It's not a lot of money and not to much time.

That is the beauty of photography. Finding a film speed and developer combo that work well for you. When light change so dose my ISO;-0<div></div>

Hello Marco,

I would go ahead and use it. That would be the only way you can tell;-0 I'm still using film that is much older than that and getting some great photograph from the film. Have fun.<div></div>

Everyone has their favorite and the only way to tell is to shoot and print a few rolls of all type of subjects. And then jumping around will still not help. I love Tmax 100, Plus-X and Tri-X, and I like them develop in PMK, HC-110, D76 or Mirodol-X. I have used just about every film that was or still on the market and have alway gone back to Kodak products. I never like their papers any way so I didn't care when they stop making them. But to get you in the game, pick one film and one developer and stay with it for a while before moving around, or it would just be a non ending testing that result you may never get to.

If I were you I would just stick with HC-110 and be happy. Any change in your process you will need to test all over from EI, and developing times. D76 is a great all around film developer and so is HC-110. To me they are almost the same.

No way in hell is Rolleipan 25 same as Agfapan 25. Agfa is in a class by them selfs, others are second or not close at all.

D76 is one of the all time favorite classic developers that anything looks good in it. Some may say not but they just haven't nail it right. I have used many from HC-110, 510 Pyro, PMK, TMax, and Zonal Pro and will always love the look of any negs process in good old D76 from Kodak if you did your homework. As it is one that is still sold from 1927. Many has tried to copy and make them self but I still think Kodak's is #1, After you run your test and find your proper EI you will love this developer and like the results you get. Testing is the key and that is with any developer you try. I would stick to one and get it right from the start before moving on. Delta 100 is also a great film. I love this film when shooting portraits and love the rich tones you can get from it. Hear is a Delta 100 process in TMax 1:5.<div></div>

Never did like anything of the Bronica cameras and I use an old ass 67 Pentax with a 150mm lens on it and I do not use tripod. So I do understand when most people think you need a tripod to work with this camera. I even shoot it at 1/15 of a second hand held and I have some sharp ass photograph form it. I love Pentax and think it is one of the best medium format cameras on the market for the price.<div></div>

I have also use this film 120, 21/4 x 3/14 and 9x12cm and found it stain very well with 510 Pyro and PMK. I have WD2D+ on hand but have not got around to use it. But I do love my Tri-X and Plus-X with PMK;-).

Hello Byron, I pull my Tri-X from 320-250 and my times are 3 minutes at 75 degrees using Dil. B. If I were you I would just do a very simple test and shoot a roll and also this would help you nail down your EI and you would have a better understanding and know what will work for you at a better EI.

All the labs you have list are great. I do my own processing and printing, and if it was no way to do it myself, then my first pick would be the http://www.thedarkroom.com/ and then Gamma Photographic Labs.

Now for slides.

Before Calypos (http://www.calypsoinc.com/) moved over the hill I now let Keeble & shuchat send it out to New Lab.

The first day out the camera shop I put a roll in my Pentax and shot a roll of Tri-X and HP5+. I love holding it in my hands and never had a photograph that I didn't like. I can hold it at 1/15 of a second and I'm very please with what I get with it. Last year I took two 67 to china and handheld it for everything. I'm off to NYC in the morning and I'm taking the Pentax 67 and Mamiya 7II. I will use both handheld.

I have used both fixer with PMK and have not seen any lost of stain. I use Zonal Pro with all my films. I sop buying TF4. I also have done this with other Pyro developers too;-0 Work just fine.

I know this is old, but I wanted to update the info just incase someone is looking for help. B&H dose sale it and also every year I can order as much as I want because Ilford dose a cut run for one of the Photographer shop in Palo Alto CA, Keeble & Shuchat. I also get to buy some nice clean cut 9X12;-)

It's hard to not like this film in any developer that you can get your hands on. I had nothing but great results with this film right from the start. It's price is cheaper than Delta 100 and Tmax 100. Anything I've shot with it I like and fall in love with the image. I like it in Microdol-X and PMK Pyro. In Tmax developer you get some of the best shadows that I have seen.<div></div>

At 75 degrees for D76 stock times for both films are 3.5 minutes and if you use D76 1:1 then times are 4:40-5 minutes. I have been useing my side kick now for more than over 5 years and before that I have a friend that own a film photo labs that I hae been testing all my film and developers with. I also have use 510 Pyro, PMK, HC-110, Microdol-X, Xtol, Zonal Pro, WD2D+, Rodinal and Acufine with Tri-X, Plus-X, TMax, NeoPan, APX, Delta, HP5+, FP4+, Arista.EDU, Foma, Bergger and Efke films and never had any probelm with the short times. My negatives are great and love this machine. Don't listen to others about uneven development. You just have to try it to see it.

In Beijing you can get black & white film at www.photochance.com and you can call them at 010-8434138/84033426/84044540. I was able to buy black & white film in Shanghai too. I took my own film but wanted to see some of the photo labs and shops. Most were very rude but that's just China;-0. On the IR film you will be better off bringing it. All my film were hand check and didn't have any problem at all. I even let some get X-Ray at the check in and shot it and they are great as well as the hand check. I'll be back for Beijing 2008 China Summer Olympics;-)

 

www.photochance.com/en/

Is yours running at 75 degrees?

Rothelle.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000001235

Hello Dave I have a paper cutter I got at Target for about $10-$15 and I been cutting my favorite Tri-X and other 4x5 sheet film to fit both of my vintage cameras. Very easy and I'm not suck with one brand of film. These films are cheap but I just don't care much about them as others do. I will stick with my Tri-X, HP5+ and FP4+ when it come to cutting sheet films to fit my 9x12 and 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 cameras. Here is a link to get you going.

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnc=404

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/24740-REG/Ilford_1629145_HP5_Plus_2_25x3_25_25.html<div></div>

In door using one light;-) Still rated at 3200 ISO<div></div>

I love shooting Delta 3200 at ISO 3200 and don't care about the grains and love the look I get with it. If I want something with fine grains then I shoot a slower film. Here is a shoot I did with Deltal 3200 rated at 3200 at high noon in full sun. This was also shot with my M645 AFD with 150mm lens. I also develop the film in TMax film developer too. I have a nice full of grain 16x20 print;-).<div></div>