rothelle

I still have mine and shoot with it as much as I can. I don't know how long they will last but seem to be lasting a very long time. I have the 105 and 150mm lens and no TTL prism. It's 6lbs and the weight to me is good. I like the heavy feel. I have even shot it hand held at 1/15 and my photos are sharp. I mostly use it for high fashion and when I go on trips its the first camera in the bag;-D KEH have them very cheap.<div></div>

These are Foma films. This site has been around a very long time ago. I use to order not only the film but some of the developer because it was cheap. I ended up going back to my fav Tri-X and Plus-X because you get what you pay for. Also Kodak is not about to repackage their films. Yes their is a lot of films out on the market but they are not as good as Kodak, Ilford and Fuji. End of story.

Agfa APX were great when they were out but now as time has past I went back to Plus-X, Tri-X. HP5+ and FP4+ and that is it.I tried all the Rollei and films that wanted to be like it but it was not. I moved on and if it did came back I would not run and drop m=the films I'm using now. In my mind and heart Agfa died and thats about it. Life gos on.

This type of darkroom equipment are given away these days. I got my hands on brand new never used things for free. Just give it away to a good home.

Pick up and you can have it.

As I can say the same that my 4x5 dose more than draw over the Mamiya's 7II.

I went from 645 to 67 so I can shoot less frames with a larger neg. 645 are nice cameras to have but I love shooting 35mm like with my Pentax 67. I love the weight of my Pentax 67 camera. I traded the Mamiya 645 AF and 7II and now shoot with Pentax 67;-D All cameras are good and what you make with it is up to you. Have fun shooting. I also agree with the rest of the team. Skills is what its all about. Shoot them both and see for yourself on what you will like as far as 645 vs 67. Both can print well.<div></div>

I Shoot with a Pentax 67 and I also have a RZ pro IIS and I shoot digital. But the thing with me is I shoot film more than digital and I also work with large format. And I'm looking to buy a bran new Pentax 67II this year;-0

I have to agree with most with what everyone has posted. So now you have a starting point. If I were you I would go out and shoot and run a film development test to home in your developing process. When I got my hands on my Sidekick film processor I ran just about every developer and film and made mad notes. Now I'm just keeping it real simple and stick to two of my favorite developer and film and the results are stunning. Good luck with your process.

I still have and use my Sidekick unit and when I first got it I was using Tmax developer. Then I started playing with everything from HC-110 to 510 pyro. Let me put this way, every developer I used came out with good results. I now run PMK, HC-110, D76 and Microdol-X. I will not trade this machine for nothing;-0 It was the best thing a $100.00 did for me in the darkroom. I made my own test and development charts for all my films;-) Now I use Tri-X/Plus-X and D76 and PMK.

I still use 510 Pyro that I made a few years back. But after it's used up I will be sticking with PMK. 510 pyro is one of the best on the market but I just don't have the time to be mixing power like I use to and love how simple PMK works for me. For me!<div></div>

They only liquids I have on hand from 1999 is HC-110 I have not had any problem with any of my films and yes I have use updated HC-110 to see if anything has changed. No. Another liquid I use is PMK. I mix both as time to process my film. I use as a one shot and toss. D76 is another good one but I don't keep more than 6 months. I process just about every other day.

I have to say the same I've been happy with my Tri-X at 200-1600 in just about anything and not have had any problems with it. Just some simple test and you should see.

I use to use many films and developer but got no were now days I only have two favorite and that is Plus-X and Tri-X and I use D76 or PMK. I use HP5+ if I could not get my hands on Tri-X but that has not been the problem. Now the problem is that Tri-X price went up from $3.09 to $4.89 I may just start buying some HP5+ that is $3.87 and NeoPan is still $2.66. What you should do is shoot all 3 and find out why you like it in the developer that you are asking. Then you will have your answer.

It's always to test your equipment for the best results. Being stupid is one thing. I still have friends who been wasting film because they do want to take the time out to run a little simple test. I say if your happy with the result your getting then why post. Don't test. I never like to get into this battle any more. It's a waste of time same as not testing:-)

New foam will do the trick. It did it for my Pentax 67. I also picked up a 67 with a prism on ebay for a $100. All I needed was new foam and my local camera shop gave me more then what I need, if you new some just email me. Other than that you are going to love this camera. I know I do.:-)))))<div></div>

The Zone System is a simple guide to photographic control. It's a wonderful tool I use to calibrate all of my photographic equipment. I'm not only talking about my camera, meter, shutter, f/stop and film speed. It has also up my skills in the darkroom from the time I push the shutter to the print I now have drying. A great book to get a clear and easy understanding is a book The Practical Zone System by Chis Johnson. You get out in the field shooting fast and having fun at the same time learning it.

Color is great not only for landscape but for anythings as B&w is good for if you know what your doing. I never thought it was a waste of time for the Master of Ansel Adams to do B&W as his work is the best and have so many other as yourself to wish you were as good as he:-) B&W rules and me myself love nothing more than a real fiber B&W print. You have a great system and I love that camera when I had it. Now I using a Pentax 67 and RZ67. On the RZ I shoot mostly with the 127mm and the 180mm while my 250mm just sit with the 50mm and 65mm.

Thank all of you guys for your help. If ever in the SF Bay Area let me know and I'll do the same.

Rothelle.

I will be in Dallas and Austin area next week and just would like to know were I

can find a great pro shop that sale 120 B&W just for backup.

Thank you for your help.

I love the way my film look when printed and scanned from 510 Pyro. It has to be one of the best so far out of all the pyro developer and I have use them all. I also favor PMK.

510 pyro is a dark brown color developer. I use it 1:100 at 72 degrees for 5 minutes with my film at their ISO box speed and have not had any problem with this developer. I think it is one of the best and PMK is right behind it second in line.

I love using HC-110 1:31 with Plus-X, Tri-x 320, 400 and other films. I 'm using a Sidekick film processor that my films are processing at higher temps then most would use. All my times are fast and I never had any problem with my method that I've been using for many years and have tried other developer with it too. If you like HC-110 you'll like D76.

The best way to understand it is at the web site of Kodak;-)

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/triX2.jhtml<div></div>

As this was my replacement for the lat Verichrome Pan that die on me. Glad to still have a few bricks of it;-)

Yes I know it's was for the single rolls only, I just love to have a choice to chose;-0<div></div>

Look like my Plus-X will be joining Verichrome Pan;-(((((

 

KODAK PLUS-X Pan and PLUS-X Pan Professional Films are discontinued.

 

As a recommended alternative for roll formats, we suggest KODAK PROFESSIONAL

PLUS-X 125 Film / 125PX. For sheet film, we suggest KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100

/ 100TMX Film. For more information, see KODAK Publications F-4016, KODAK

PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films and F-4018, KODAK PROFESSIONAL PLUS-X 125 Film.