Terryro

Thank you all for the responses to my question. Perhaps I was miss leading when I said I was a newbie. I apologize. I'm a newbie to posting on the site. I've been involved with photography for over 50 years. This includes photo labs with C-41, E6, B&W, custom photo printing, wedding & studio portrait photography, forensic photography, medical film photo equipment and I've worked in my personal darkroom since 1974. I work with many formats from 8x10, 4x5, 120/220, 35 and 21/4 x 31/4 sheet film formats. Each has it's own quirks and yes most of my equipment is older mechanical style. So the system of calibrating minimum exposure coupled with calibrating film, cameras, developer and film to this standard really helps me with multiple systems. I was curious how many others used the same system. Yes the system is similar to a zone system in that it gives you a standard starting point to deviate from if needed. Similar but not as involved. As a for instance with my 35 film cameras T-Max 100 is ISO 100 but with my 120 cameras it's ISO 50 to get the best negatives. Different lens, camera, meter. Again thanks for the interest and responses.

The minimum exposure for maximum black for the paper is to get black but not over print to dull the highlights. After adjusting the film and processing for this method it really improved my amount of full scale negatives that I get from a roll. Might not be something for everyone but it works for me. Especially when I try out new films or developers. This gives me a consistent beginning reference point. Maybe more useful for me as I still print on older Agfa paper that has been frozen for years

Yes Alan well said. This is very similar principle. You have a standard printing time for maximum black then test your camera, film, developer combination. This gives you a pretty consistent starting point for your film/darkroom work.

It's a process for obtaining a full range of tones from B&W paper from darkest black to whitest white in your prints. Maybe old school technique not used anymore. It's a way of finding out the best exposure, developing time for your camera, your film and paper setup as a starting point.

As a newbie not sure if this question has been brought up before. Just curious how many use this method for their B&W printing and have used it for determining their standard film and processing times.

I have been using HC-110 since 1974 for my B&W film processing (sheet & roll). I've found that for my results to be consistent I make the stock solution and dilute from that. I take the larger bottle of concentrate and put that into 2oz glass bottles. When making a stock solution for my container that holds 16 oz I need 2 of the small bottles. Mixed 1/3 4oz of concentrate with 12 oz of water. I can use the stock solution up usually in 2 to 3 months and that seems to stay pretty consistent. I've used this method for the thick syrupy version and the newer solution with excellent results. Hope this helps as with film processing and darkroom work consistency is the key. Saves time and expensive materials and can also improve your results.

I just enjoy using film. For me it makes me slow down and think about the image I'm making. My first 35mm camera was purchased while in Vietnam in the 60's. Went on to college and took every photo class they offered. Photography has been involved in most of my jobs in my working career. Digital photography was a means to an end for the last 20 years (some days were diamonds and some were very dark coal). Now that I'm retired I look forward to film photography again, as a therapy for a happier time. I have 18 film cameras and looking forward to making use of each one.

I'm not totally certain but it sure resembles a light leak on one of my Hasselblad backs. If you have interchangeable backs. Bought replacement light traps online and changed them all out. My problem was solved. Might try and shoot a roll with the dark slide opening taped over. That's what I diid to make sure. I don't do much scanning so not of any help if that is the case.

I'm mostly a film photographer but will occasionally go with digital. Worked for many years photographing with Nikon digital cameras. Retired now using film for enjoyment.