Water/Chemical Spots

[brennan_probst]

<p>Hey guys, new to the forums here. I process both 35mm and 120 film by hand. My 120 film always turns out great, with no<em> </em>water spots or chemical residue of any kind. However, no matter what I do, I always seem to get spots on my 35mm negs. I'm hoping I could get some input as to what I'm doing wrong (if anything), and why it only seems to happen to my 35mm negs and not my 120 negs. </p>

<p>For reference, here is my process (I use a Paterson SS4 tank, and mostly shoot Kodak TMax 400): <br>

1. Develop with Ilfotec DDX (1+4 dilution), agitating every 30 seconds<br>

2. Dump the developer, fill and empty tank 5 times with cool running water<br>

3. Fix with Ilford Rapid Fixer for 5 min (1+9 dilution), agitating every 30 seconds<br>

4. Pour out fixer, wash for 15 minutes in running water (using Paterson washer hose)<br>

5. Remove film from tank, let sit in separate container of Kodak photo-flo for 30 seconds, no agitation (1+200 dilution, with distilled water)<br>

6. Gently squeegee film with fingers, hang dry</p>

<p>FYI, I live in the northern suburbs of Chicago (maybe we have extra-hard water here?).</p>

<p>Again, my 120 negatives always turn out perfect, but I can't seem to shake the water-spot blues when it comes to my 35mm negs. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and I'm happy to elaborate on any part of my process. Thanks! </p>

<p> </p>

[glen_h]

<p>I put the reel with film still on in the Photo-Flo, but otherwise it should work.</p>

<p>Photo-Flo mixed with distilled water should be fine even if the others are made with hard water.</p>

<p>Do try to be close, or a little less, than 1:200. If you make it too strong, there can be problems.</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>Try 1/2 or 1/4 of the amount of photoflo. You really don't need that much for it to work. Your 35mm strips are longer than your 120 and the spots are probably collecting at the bottom.</p>

<p>Another thing to try before hanging your film, take the two ends (one in each hand) amd gently flick the film several times. This will remove most of the water droplets on the film. I do this and never need to "squeegee" my film.</p>

[SCL]

<p>I also live in the Chicago area and the water is quite hard in my community. I use distilled water with my Photo-Flo and haven't had problems with spotting.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Too little Photoflo will not sheet the water off properly. Too much Photoflo will leave a residue on the film.<br>

Put a filter on your water source for the processing. I currently use a Pur water filter and get no spots.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>After I hang my film with a film clip at the end, I run my finger, wet with Photo-Flo down each side.</p>

<p>Not like a squeegee, but just the weight of the film and film clip to apply pressure. This gets the big drops off, leaving a thin film of wet solution on each surface.</p>

[martin_jones1]

<p>Once the film has been in the developer long enough for the emulsion to swell and allow the developer in, the gelatin is very sticky. Think flypaper. Any particles in your processing solutions / wash water will adhere and embed themselves into the emulsion surface.<br /> <br /> Using distilled water only as a last step is like shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted. You may, at best, rinse off any particles on the back of the film.<br /> <br /> I use filtered water to make up solutions and for washing. See Ilford dump wash method - I give an extra rinse and dump at the end.<br /> <br /> 2 - 3 drops of Photoflo in 500ml filtered water in a Paterson tank is plenty. I drop and lift the film in the tank a few times and I expect to see a few bubbles on the surface. If your tank is frothing at this stage you have used way too much Photoflo.<br /> <br /> Used or old fixer is a source of particle contamination. I also filter my fix after use when returning to the storage bottle.<br /> <br /> Lastly I also do the flick / whip with film before hanging. This removes most of the water on the non emulsion side. You can't do much about the emulsion side as this will be uniformly saturated. The squeegee with fingers trick just tends to push the water around on the back of the film leaving you with large drops randomly distributed on the film. Any particles in these drops will produce the 'water marks' on your dried film. These particles are very small and you won't see them until the film is dried.<br /> <br /> I am scanning my films at the moment and with cleaner negs I don't have to spend much time in post processing to clean up the images in Photoshop.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The amount of Photoflo required will depend on the water supply where you live. I have lived in one city where 1/2 of an eye dropper full was sufficient but was insufficient in the city 5 miles away. I use one of these eye droppers http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/walgreens-eye/ear-dropper/ID=prod6215691-product squeeze the bulb fully, put the tip at least 1/4 inch below the surface of the photoflo then slowly release the bulb. This fills the tube 2/3 to 3/4 full. I empty this into the tank then fill the tube and empty it 2 to 3 times with the tank water. Testing is necessary to determine the amount of PhotoFlo you need to use.</p>

<p>I never squeegee any film. I let the reel(s) sit in the tank for a few minutes after pouring the final rinse out, remove them, shake them vigorously, then hang as I unroll them. Only small droplets remain and the film dries free of spots.</p>

<p>I too use the Ilford archival eash with additional inversions and an extra cycle. I only do one water rinse between development and fixer which is sufficient to remove the residual developer from the film/tank.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>120 is bigger, 35mm is smaller. The same spots in size, etc. will be much more prominent on the image that is enlarged more diameters.<br>

Film is inherently dirty. Back in the day, even work from the major film manufacturers like Kodak would come pre-spotted. Not much, but not totally clean either.</p>

<p>This is why any realistic guide to darkroom work will have some discussion of "spotting" the specks, detritus, and crap that show up on negatives, and even more on prints.</p>

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[JDMvW]

<p>Here are some further hints on "how-to" by Cora Kennedy of <em>Popular Photography</em></p>

[zelph_young]

<p>Try doing the final two rinses with distilled water rather than just the final photo flo rinse prior to drying.</p>