peterbcarter

When you are standing in front of your "scene" and deciding how you would develop the film, when shooting it a certain way, developing becomes an art and not a task. Anyone can do it, but only a skilled few do it well. It can be more than dipping film into solutions. Be greater, make it an art.

Stoeckler test

My experiance is you can easily go a full stop over or under withiut too much issues. That's 80-320 range. Develop as normal.

It's more likely these cameras fell off a truck and had their serials changed to sell them.

Note that when under developed / under exposed, marks like these tend to show up more often. How did the negs look to your nakid eye?

Just read my first reply. It tells you why you probably will never have to.

It's been included in most fixers for 30 years. Hypoclear is nothing more than sodium sulphite, used to absorb the extra unbound hypo. If it is in the fix, you are covered. That said, it was important for prints and not so much film.

A professional photographer from the film era would not likely see any reason why not to shoot c-41; they never processed it themselves. I do much more with chemicals and their processes than I would with photoshop. With every edit in PS you make, you destroy a bit of the original photo. The big difference with XP2 and the like, is it is a monocromatic dye ment to be post in b&w. A colour C-41 film has extra colours and a base to contend with. Special optical paper needed to be used to handle the low contrast image that would result if regular paper was used. Scaning can correct, but has the look of the enevadable compromise. XP2, and variants, tend to be sharp but have an otherwise flat cold look.....similar to digital monochrome. I prefer the abundance of variations I can use with b&w film and chemistry combinations. Dust is dust. Colour has just as much as b&w. Digital ice just automates it's removal. I do a better job and prefer to remove it myself. Same effort with c-41 or b&w. And then there is the hipster factor. What some see as beauty, I see as imperfections.....and vica-verca.

I keep a jug of pool PH- (sodium metaborate) to clean my bottles. Just a tablespoon with the water is all you need. TD-16 is supposed to be an improved D76. I would start with D76 times.

I would also look at any firmware update.

I still have some in my freezer. But I will miss it when it's gone. I find orwo UN54 fits the old world charm of PlusX. It's not available in all formats so the Ilford FP4 is a good alternate.

I once owned a Nikon 24-120/F4. It was liberated from me and I have missed it ever since. It is not an exceptional lens but is a great one. I never felt the need to take it off my camera, even though I always carried primes too.

Yep

I don't think it will be a real problem. The quality of the sensor (and camera) should be much better.

You can stabilize at any time, and as often as you wish. The only pain you will face is you cut your negs, and you will have to hang lots of strips up to dry. You don't need to rewash. Just let them soak a little longer.

Possibly a quicker resolution to this problem.... Rent a D500 or a FX lens to get you through the shoot. You can take your time with a more permanent solution later.

What you just used is not a divided developer, no matter what it was called. The first part is a developer in it's own right with the sulfite providing enough ph to start activity. What it is is actually a boosting in the second part. To make it a true two stage developer, some form of acid (usually bisulfite) needs to be applied to the first part to reduce the ph to about 5 or less.

I have a Primefilm XA and it does what it is supposed to do reasonably well. A FLIKR album using scanner Me and Andre up to no good

try GPS4CAM for android/iPhone. It tracks your movements with your camera and running a companion app on your computer (mac/pc) it syncs the dates and sets the GPS info on your files. It's that easy. I've been using it for a few years. How it works is camera independent and you can have as many cameras as you can afford, lol. The website is GPS4CAM ps: I'm just a happy customer. I did have issues with the iPhone (evil/stupid Apple problem, not the app). The iPhone will shut down the app if it is not running in the foreground. The Android version (what I currently use) does not suffer from this.

Go to a picture frame shop.

My technique..... Remove IR filter focus put IR filter back on. Meter with an external light meter with the lowest ISO possible compensate 4 stops Shoot at least F8...F16 is better. Compensate by the shutter. Do not bring up ISO, as you will lose detail. Don't judge by the viewfinder. Wait until you open up the file.

I think you will get the same results, except you are mangling a much better (and costly) camera. Send me yours and I'll send you my D7000. Mangle away! * Seriously, you *have* to manual focus. * There is nothing wrong with the Coken IR filter; I have one. It works well. * You should stick with primes, and limit yourself to using only one lens. In time you will know how much to change your focus. * Use DOF to nail your focus.....just light you were taught..... The photography is not any different, you just got busted on everything your camera probably did for you.

I had a shot roll in my freezer for 7 years. I just forgot it was there. Moving made me go through the freezer :) Although I didn't take a densitometer to it, the film looked perfect when developed normally.

Just do a clip test with an undeveloped leader in the light. Just put a little developer in a glass and drop a small bit of undeveloped film. It should turn black in a couple minutes. This is how i tested my xtol, when I still used it.

It's a D76 clone. Kodak (mixed) gives it 6 months to a year. Merry christmas if this is the first time you have had developer die in 17 years. Rodinal lasts a very long time and is not the norm.