First Time Developing 120 Film

[nick_sandin]

Hello All,

 

I have been developing my own 35mm B&W film for a few months now. I have recently caught the medium format but again and ordered

a Mamiya 645 Pro. I have shot medium format before, but this will be the first time I will attempt to develop it at home. I'm just wondering

if there are any peculiarities of 120 film vs 35mm that I should watch out for in the developing process. I intend to use the same Paterson

tank I use for 35 and I generally either develop in DDX or rodinal for stand development.

 

Thanks!

Nick

[Jochen_S]

<p>Maybe it is a bit harder to get 120 into your reel. I believe Ilford used a thinner carrier than Kodak when I struggled with film, but both should be doable just get your measurements right. For standing developing you might need more liquids than for a single roll of 135 in the same tank. - If you are going to shoot a lot there are reels which take two rolls of 120. - No clue about Patterson, I used Jobo.</p>

[PapaTango]

<p>I have never had an issue with the Paterson System 4 tanks or reels--I use various sizes for both 35 and 120 development. Sometimes as has been stated, a bit of trouble can be had with ratcheting into the reel. This is especially true of the reel in not totally dry--or one has managed to create a 'crinkle' on one edge of the film strip.</p>

<p>One major consideration, especially if using one of the tall tanks is making sure that your reel(s) are properly covered with solutions. I found, especially when doing stand development--that about half again the quantity of solution asked for is a better thing. To make sure I was there--I test filled and measured the quantity needed to do this for 1 or two reels. A second consideration with excess developer is that it is less impacted (exhausted) by the development process. This makes for a bit better consistency and action in the tank.</p>

[stephen t]

<p>Buy a NEW Paterson copy reel. B&H and Adorama have them. They have a MUCH larger starting platform on the reel. If you don't, you'll be s.o.r.r.y.</p>

<p>I use the Patersons for 35mm, and start them in the light. I invented new curse words when I tried to use the Paterson reels for 120. A kind person on this forum told me about the new reels (they are only about $10 each or so). Best $10 I ever spent on darkroom equipment.</p>

<p>Be sure that your tank size will take 500ml of solution. Rodinal at 1:100 will work fine for stand or semi-stand (one inversion at 30 minutes). Some say you can use only 3ml of Rodinal per roll, but I have had issues doing so. 5ml is perfect, for me anyway.</p>

<p>Good luck, and welcome to medium format. Pretty soon, you'll want a Fuji GX680, then some 4x5's, and go ahead and start saving for that 8x10. Glorious fun awaits!</p>

[dave_s]

<p>This is going to sound crazy, but I find it easier to load 120 on a regular Paterson reel, in comparison with 35mm. Maybe it's because I have a lot of osteoarthritis in my hands, and I find the 35mm is a little fiddly to work with. Like they say, YMMV.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Just make sure you have enough chems in the tank. It is the same.<br>

Old is not a cuss word be it forum or that person.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>This might help with loading: - http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00MLkF</p>

 

[SCL]

<p>Haven't had a problem loading Paterson reels with 120, whereas I did using metal reels. My best suggestion is to do yourself a favor and practice with a sacrifice roll until you feel perfectly comfortable with the process in the dark (or bag).</p>

[deanmeeks]

<p>120 is a cinch. The only loading issues I've ever had have been with 35mm reels. For plastic reels be sure to pull the leader a good two or three inches down into the spool to make sure the film's slotted into the grooves properly.</p>

[ciaran_mcmenemy]

<p>I'd say that relatively new 120 film is even easier to load than 35mm. It's <em>old </em>120 film that's the problem. <br />Think about it: when it's made, film is rolled out flat and then split up until it's rolled up onto a reel, whether it be a 120 reel or inside a 35mm can. Over time the film will become accustomed to how it's stored. On old 120, the film seems to bend inward, because the corners really don't like to fit into the ratchet!!</p>

<p>(For right handed people; paterson tank) if you are having trouble ratcheting it:<br>

-hold the end square with your left hand and carefully send it through the triangular thingies. hold the rest in your right hand and don't f-cking let go!<br />-if it doesn't go past the bearings, don't force it. PATIENCE. Any crinkles or whatever you call them will develop black (and scan white). This also applies to all film: if it's not smooth, start again. Crinkles = white streaks<br />- hold the left side of the reel with your left hand (obviously) and stick out that little finger. Make sure your nails aren't all horrible and jagged. The film goes over your finger, to keep it under control.<br />- wind the ratchet and keep your thumbs on the triangular tabs so the film can't slip over it at as you're near completion.</p>

<p> </p>

[PapaTango]

<p>At the risk of recycling a well worn debate, I have to bring up cleaning your reels!</p>

<p>After each session, run your reels under medium hot water-and scrub inside the film tracks very well with a toothbrush. Pay extra attention to the balls or plastic clips on the lead in to the reel. Different developers and harder water leave things behind. Periodically, give your reels and tank an overnight stand in a vinegar solution--just like you would your coffee maker. This will also keep the action of the two halves smooth--miniscule coatings of minerals, silver, or dreck can make for friction in the shaft assembly.</p>

<p> </p>

[nick_sandin]

Thanks for the advice everyone! My darkroom hobby was held up for a month or so by a relocation for work. Now I am

back to it, and my first couple of attempts went well. The first roll I just shot around the house and used as a a practice

roll. I quickly realized that it is easier to unroll the film and separate it from the backing before attempting to wind it on the

reel. I tried just going straight on the reel first time and hit some snags. I'll post a sample from my latest roll below.<div></div>

[glen_h]

<p>Nikor instructions for a 16mm reel are here:</p>

<p>http://www.submin.com/general/manuals/nikor/nikor_reel.htm</p>

<p>should be similar for others. As noted above nitric acid at 25%, but not hydrochloric or sulfuric.</p>