First go at film photography - what's gone wrong???

[richard_lambert]

<p>I've just started trying medium format film photography on a 1950s Zeiss Ikon Nettar camera. I was expecting the first set to be too dark/light, blurred etc because that's things I can correct but having received the photos after development, I can't work out what went wrong. If someone could have a look at the images below and give any suggestions for what happened, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.</p>

<p><img src="https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10345765_10152470748815449_1993618504558518983_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br>

<img src="https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10407148_10152470748810449_8022260509886244661_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /></p>

 

[paul_wheatland]

<p>did you develope and print these photos? If not, then whoever did these got something on either the negative or the print or both (a stain created by spilled liquid?). The first image suffers from too small an f stop or too fast a shutter speed(dark picture = underexposure). You need to use an exposure light meter to use a camera that lacks built in metering.</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

You had a light leak. Maybe the roll was not wound tightly enough, or maybe the lab was sloppy.

[DWScott]

<p>You can see in the first photo that the backing-paper printed through onto the film (it says KODAK...) So most likely your camera has a light leak around the door, OR is leaking through the red window.</p>

<p>Inspect the red window -- is it sufficiently dark, or has it faded and become more see-through? Is it firmly attached to the camera with no leaks or gaps? Perhaps you can replace the red window using some fresh rubylith.<br>

Of course, modern films are MUCH more susceptible to light leaks through the red window too. Originally the red windows relied on orthochromatic film being colour-blind to red. Modern panchromatic black & white and colour films are NOT colour blind, so the red window had better be DARK. If the window has a sliding blind to cover it up, make sure it is COVERED when you are not peering through the window to wind the film on. If the camera DOES NOT have a sliding blind, use some good black tape/paper (like black gaffers tape) to cover the red window when you are not actually winding on.<br>

<br />I'm not sure what kind of foam or cloth light seals there are on a Nettar. Google to get more information and check into changing the light seals.</p>

 

[richard_lambert]

<p>Thanks for the responses, much appreciated. The red window does seem dark enough to me I think, but if it was the red window then wouldn't it show a light leak in the centre of the photo rather than at the top? Again the door doesn't have any obvious gaps, but perhaps I should gaffer tape it and try again?<br>

I'm assuming if it is the lab that's messed up then there's probably no point in trying to get a refund as I can't prove it, so I should probably just use somewhere else next time.<br>

What's the best way to send a film through the post without it getting leaked or damaged?<br>

Thanks also for the advice on the dark photo - I 'like' problems such as that because it's an easy fix (slower shutter/larger aperture), but light leaks are frustrating!<br>

For info I've got some more examples below:</p>

<p><img src="https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t1.0-9/10325732_10152471051235449_557645560962064677_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /></p>

<p><img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10402619_10152471051220449_8024866946573223414_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /></p>

[joseph_dickerson]

<p>See if the light leak, which sure is what it looks like, goes to the very edge of the negative. If it does it's from the back of the camera, if the negative rebate (edge) isn't fogged, it's probably from the front. Maybe a bad bellows or some such.<br>

JD</p>

[lachaine]

<p>This could be a light leak you induced when either loading the film or taking it out. Unlike 35 mm film, the only thing that keeps light away from a roll of medium format is that it's wound up firmly. Even then, you're supposed to handle it away from bright sunlight. Also, sometimes the camera itself isn't good at keeping the take up spool tightly wound in the film chamber.<br>

I don't think it's the red window in this case, but in future, you should keep a flap of black electrical tape or something over it, and uncover it only during the time it takes to advance the film... and again, away from direct sunlight.</p>

[richard_lambert]

<p>Thanks again for the feedback. Looking at the negatives, the leak does go right to the edge so I'm assuming that it's the back that's leaking. I can't see anything obvious looking at the camera, so all I can think is to put a load of gaffer tape over it next time.<br>

I'll also put some black tape over the window like you suggest.</p>

[maris_rusis]

<p>The Zeiss Ikon Nettar is a bellows camera and I'd suspect a light leak through pinholes or cracked bellows pleats. Test the bellows by taking the camera into a dark room, wait for your eyes to dark-adapt, switch on a light inside the bellows, and look for light leaking out.</p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>I would expect a light leak to be more uniform in nature (always in the same place and same shape) ... It looks to me like liquid spill. Looks like the LAB screwed up something.</p>

[hjoseph7]

<p>That's one of the draw backs of film. You or the lab can ruin an entire roll(s) with no chance of recovery. Unless you are good at developing your own film and got the technique down-pat, it might be better to send it out to a respectable and reliable lab rather than crossing your fingers, holding your breath and hoping everything worked out OK. And even then there is no guarantee.</p>

[w_t1]

<p>the first shot is underexposed, as someone else mentioned. Looks like a sloppy processing error by the lab, and not light leaks from the camera. You should still test the bellows for pinhole leaks, and can you develop some BW film yourself?</p>

[mike_earussi1]

<p>As WT says, shoot a roll of B&W and process it yourself to determine whether it's a lab processing problem or a camera light leak problem. Also old camera bodies often (usually) have the foam or cloth light seals around the door worn or gone altogether and need replacing.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Without actually seeing the negs, it's difficult to tell whether it's light fogging or a liquid spill onto the film roll. The fact that the marks appear in almost the same position on each frame would appear to indicate a light leak. A liquid spill on the film would "creep" in position from frame to frame. Could be a light leak in the camera bellows or a gap in the light sealing of the back. Not possible to make a sure diagnosis at this distance. Except to say that a liquid spill would tend to alter the surface texture and colouration of the film right across the frame margins as well. A bellows leak will tend to stop within the frame. Loose spooling or a back leak will affect the edges of the film as well.</p>

<p>As Harry Joseph implied, that's why film is such an awful tool to learn with. You have almost no control over a major part of the process, unless you process the film yourself. Even then there are mishaps beyond your control, and you're stuck with a colour-rendering that some anonymous chemist has concocted. Sorry to say to all the film fanboys out there, but digital is <em>much</em> more reliable and a much quicker and easier way to hone your camera skills. In short it's a far better learning tool to improve your vision, rather than getting bogged down with inconsequential technicalities, potions and lotions.</p>