ellis_vener_photography

The best way to do this whether you have a single 4800 watt-second pack or two 2400 watt-second packs, is to use a bi-tube, or if using Speedotron Blackline , a quad-tube head.

From a safety point of view, you do not have it set up correctly. From behind the stand you want the knuckle and the arm to the right of the stand. This is the “righty tighty /lefty loose” rule. Why that is important is because with the weight on the end on the arm, if the arm is to the right of the arm as gravity pulls the weight of the light towards the parts of the knuckle will tighten against each other. With the weight on the left side of the stand, the converse will happen - the knuckle will loosen against itself.

Have you tried contacting Speedotron? They are still in business. Speedotron Since you are in New Mexico, you might LightTec.com in Dallas, TX

That is completely wrong. All Paul C. Buff, Inc. Lights work perfectly well with 8mm shaft diameter umbrellas.

Fine work! Works well on an iPhone 6 held either vertically or horizontally. Curious as to know why you want/need the lengend about "A rotating selection of photographs not related to cinematography" super-imposed on each image?

What possible advantages do you think a nine year old DSLR 12.1mp full frame DSLR might give you over an APS-C D7200 which has a far larger dynamic range when shooting NEFs?

I know Qualitycameracompany.com has a few in the box unused Balcar flashtubes as they bought my Balcar equipment.

Email, direct mail, "go see" visits with a printed portfolio.

A repair station can access it. You could also shoot a frame an look at the EXIF data. It's also a good argument for adding your name in the camera's copyright field and using your initials in the file name instead of dsc.

When I need very carefully focused images I use magnified live view.

Kodak used to require that two PhD level chemists monitor Kodachrome processing. It's a non-trivial 23-step process plus drying and mounting. The heavy metal and toxic byproducts are nothing you want to dump directly into your plumbing unless you'd like a visit from the EPA.

Check eBay and your local craigslist for copystands. Ideally you'll find a a Polaroid MP-4 with camera mount for a very reasonable price (less than $300) Also on the light box, make sure you mask off the areas outsid of the film holder. As to set up, being able to set it up and take it down at will is nice but make sure you can set it up to the same settings each time. Finally: use live view for focusing, shoot raw, bracket your exposures and combine them using a very mild HDR technique to open up the shadows and retain highlight detail. Try to physically touch the camera as little as possible.

<p>Professional photographers have been doing this for decades. When you need it, use it! </p>

I have tried a few different pieces of equipment and techniques to do this over the years. Here is my current set up Canon 5DS (full frame) Nikon PB-6 bellows Rodenstock APO-Rodagon D 75mm f/4 lens Nikon PS-6 film holder Savage Luminous PRO LED panel (set to full brightness and 5600K) All of this (bellows rig and light) are mounted on a single long rail to keep everything aligned For your APS-C format camera I recommend you change the lens to the Nikon 55mm f/2.8 AI-S Micro-Nikkor A quick overview of my technique Shoot raw and manual exposure mode. Use the PS-6 movable stage to shoot the slide in overlapping quadrants Bracket exposures from each quadrant from -2 to +2 in one strop increments and combine using a mild HDR Technique Stitch the four quadrants together. For the HDR and Stiching software I am using Lightroom cc 2015.8's Photomerge tools. Once combined I use lightroom's develop tools to make any adjustments

Check your preferences.

About my minimum wage remark $180 /7.5 hours = $24.00 per hour, but that simple equation doesn't take into acount: -time spent traveling back and forth -transportation costs (fuel, etc.) - time spent downloading, processing, editing and delivery. -time spent dealing with the second shooter. Or hardware costs like equipment (cameras, lenses, lighting, computer, wear and tear on car (assuming you didn't walk, use public transportation, Uber, etc.) any insurance you might have, time spent learning your craft and business, promotions and advertising, or opportunity cost equations like could the time have been better spent earning greater income to pay rent, food, utilities, interest on credit cards or loans you have outstanding.

Did you pay your second shooter already? And by the way how do you like shooting weddings for minimum wage or less? Is that working out for you?

I'm not an attorney but wasn't the contract fulfilled when you delivered the images and were paid in full?

It reads like you have a hardware problem, not a software climb.

There is the Einstein E640

There are also the 8x10 cameras made by Keith Canham http://www.canhamcameras.com which are both beautiful and practical.

I have owned one of those Calumet C1 "Green monsters" in the past and it was also the model I learned on when I was in college. Take my word for it: A ball head is the absolute worst choice you can make for it. The best head is also likely going to be the most economical to purchase: a used geared Majestic models, preferably one with a 5x7 platform. The self-locking geared tilt movement makes controlling the pitch angle of the camera very simple. You have about 15 degrees in each direction of roll (left/right) tilt but that isn't geared. As to legs I suggest either a Gitzo 410 or 500 series tripod or again a Majestic twin tube legset. My first tripod was one of those Twin-tube Majestics with a geared Majestic head and it once was put into service to hold up a sagging ceiling after a bad storm damaged the house I was living in at the time. Not only are the Majestic tripods strong, they are also tall and ultra stable. And they are heavy. Majestic heads and legsets show up on eBay regularly. If you are just going to be using the camera in the studio look for an Arkay camera stand. Foba and Cambo camera stands are even better but even used, are not cheap.

Scaling down to what end? Editing or displaying? What is the full screen aspect ratio of the display?

It needs repair.

If you have photoshop, use the Image> Canvas control to make a border along the sides to make the width equal to the height.