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Why are my negatives scratched so much?


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<p>I bought a 100ft roll of FomaPam 100 and hand rolled reloadable cartridges. Some rolls are perfectly fine with very little or no scratches at all while others have TONS of scratches. I develop them myself so it can't be from lab equiptment. They are not straight lines either. I will upload some pictures to better describe. Don't mine the dust and lint, it was just a quick scan of them. And, the photos were taken with an old Nikon F<br /> Thanks for any help determining the cause!!</p>
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<p>A common bulk loading mistake is to leave the loader in the "open" position that allows one to open the cassette door. Failing to "close" the loader after the cassette door has been closed will result in scratches that run the length of the frame as well as between frames.<br>

The samples you posted looks like it was dropped on the floor, walked on for a while, kicked around, picked up, wiped off (with a scotch brite?), then packaged.</p>

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<p>Hi Austin<br>

I worked in a lab for 20 years and agree with Charles. This damage is consistent with heavy pressure and dragging such as people walking on the film on the floor or film being pushed along a desk or lightbox and even caught in a machine and dragged for a short distance.<br>

While there is a lot of random damage there is also some damage that looks consistent. If I were to give an opinion on this, I would say it was damaged before you received the film.</p>

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<p>These scratches do *not* look like they came with the film. It is beyond me how freestyle or foma could be blamed for this.</p>

<p>I use bulk foma 100 all the time and never have these problems. It is a soft film, so it is easily scratched by bad handling. I think you are getting busted on a bunch of little things. Anything "FILM" rewards good consistent habits.</p>

<p>1) Get a bulk loader! You may even find a free one on Craig's list. Even then, they are not that expensive. Lower the chances of your handling errors.</p>

<p>2) Inspect your carts. When doubt, pitch them. They are cheap to replace.</p>

<p>3) Get a can of air or a squeeze bulb. Blow out the cartridges before you load them.</p>

<p>4) If you use tongs, make sure they are wet before you use. Only use enough pressure to close the tongs as any more will scratch. Resist the urge for a second pass; one is enough.</p>

<p>5) Make sure your fixer has a hardener. This is soft film.</p>

<p>6) Start wearing lint free gloves. Your finger prints are a dead give away. Also wash your hands just before you handle film. It will remove a lot of body oil from your hands.</p>

<p>7) All film will have crud on them, at some point. Isopropol is the only product I know of that will remove finger prints. Use a micro fiber cloth.....gently and only if you have to.</p>

 

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<p>"I didnt use a bulk loader to load the film. I just loaded it by hand in a darkroom bag."<br />That sounds like the answer to me. At the very least you had a pair of scissors, a film can and a cartridge inside the bag, all of which have sharp edges that can scratch film and all within a very confined space where the film is being manipulated by hand. Maybe even a ring or watch if you were wearing them. I would expect it to be difficult even to keep the 100-foot roll from unspooling in that situation, and how did you measure the right length of film? I agree with Peter. Get a bulk loader if you plan on doing this going forward.</p>
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