Two naive questions (TriX 400)

<p>First, and this is really naive, but when I scan my 35mm using an epson scan, I get a scan that is NOT 4*6 aspect ratio. If I google 35mm I get an aspect ratio of 3/2=6/4. But if I wiki 35mm I get an aspect ratio of 1.375<<1.5. If Wiki is right this explains things, but why would Photoshop not have a standard 35mm aspect ratio. I know I am asking a stupid question. </p>

<p>Second, I have been using TriX for a long time. I always use D76 developer, and sometimes push films. Now Sometimes when I scan the film as B&W, I sometimes get near-sepia color. Now I LIKE Trix 400 for these (mid-range?) colors, but sometimes it comes out as a bit too close to Sepia which is not what I am trying to do. If I ask photoshop to take out the color the picture looks quite different (but I don't want to do that because it takes from the Trix effect). </p>

<p>Thanks a bunch </p>

Some scanners automatically crop and separate

frames so the end result may not be exactly 3:2

ratio. But if your scanner allows scanning the

entire negative, including the rebate or margins,

the exposed frame will be as close as possible to

the nominal 3:2 or 36mm X 24mm standard.

 

Regarding scanning, some folks prefer scanning as

color and converting to monochrome later. Others

prefer to scan as monochrome. Try both, see if

you notice any difference.

 

Regarding the Tri-X look, that depends on many

variables, from exposure and processing to

darkroom printing or scanning and applying the

appropriate profile or tweaks.

 

If I want a toned print I'll do it in the

darkroom or digitally after all other

adjustments. I don't usually want the base tint

of the negative or scan artifacts to determine

the toning.

<blockquote>

<p>Now Sometimes when I scan the film as B&W, I sometimes get near-sepia color.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>There are (at least) two different way to scan as B&W. One way outputs to an RGB color space. This is when I usually get a "sepia" color output. If I output to grey scale, especially 16-bit grey scale, I get a Black and White scan that is true to my print (or negative as the case may be).</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I scan in color with B&W then convert as it keeps more tones be it whatever method you use. I prefer 24 bit as it is close enough for me.</p>

<p>For the aspect ratio thing: I'd measure my camera's frame first then the scanner's film holder next. 24x36mm is kind of a standard but labs never granted to print the outer mm of neg area and consumer SLR viewfinders don't display it. - Photography is a messy trade and rarely ever exact. - When I did my own printing I always tried to get the best out of a given neg. - Mild cropping was part of that and one of my main reasons to pick up that part of the hobby at all. Even with zoom lenses mounted I don't frame really exactly.</p>

<p>Not sure for TriX (not using it yet), but when I scan B&W films in RGB (which I prefer), there tends to be some toning, even when using the base film colour correction in VueScan. To correct, I use either white balance in a raw editing tool (Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop or PS Elements for example), or the 'Remove colour cast' option in Photoshop (Elements in my case). Either way works fine for me without seriously altering the tonality.</p>

<p>Aspect ratios: The standard full-frame 35mm image area for decades has been 24x36mm. No need to measure anything. If it's off by a fraction of a millimeter it's smaller than you're gonig to be able to measure anyhow so don't waste your time. This is an aspect ratio of 2:3 or 1.5 (both are the same). And yes Photoshop does include that. (Photoshop has all of the standard aspect ratios but if you uncheck "constrain aspect ratio" it can do any aspect ratio you can dream up.)<br /><br />If your scanner is cropping into the image, that's a problem with your scanner, its settings or the film holder, not Photoshop or your camera. One thing to check is how your negatives are positioned in the film holder. Some holders have a small plastic bar between some of the frames. If the image area isn't lined up with the openings in the holder, it could cause croppign problems.<br /><br />Tri-X is B&W. It doesn't have any color at all. Your scanner should have at least three basic settings -- B&W negative, color negative and color slide/transparency. If you're getting a color cast you probably have it set for color negative. What your'e describing as sepia sounds like the scanner and its software trying to create the orange mask that is present on a color negative. Set it for B&W negative before you scan again and it should go away.<br /><br /></p>

<p>I scan with an Epson 4870 using Epson Scan. I do not use the thumbnail version where it chooses where the edges of the frames are because it nearly always cuts off part of each frame. I use the pro setting (home vs pro somewhere at the top of the program's box) and do each frame separately (except with slides). <br>

As for the color, if anything sightly onto the rebate is part of what's going to be scanned, it will alter the color. It also changes how light or dark it is. If you mess around a bit with the box it shows as the edge of what you're scanning, you should be able to see this. In the Pro setting, you can also play with the color, levels, and a few other things. And you can make your own scanning target sizes so you can make your own aspect ratios. <br>

And B&W file really is black and white. When you're getting sepia, the scanner is doing it, not the film.<br>

I apologize if these don't apply to your version of Epson Scan, but I really hope they do. </p>