j_d30

Thanks guys. OP here. It seems that I am nearly convinced that Sony A7ii would be a good choice and not because it can eventually take the summicron when I go back home (because it sounds it is not ideal to use with the 'cron). What would be a professional sharp 35 mm lens to go with it? Due to my ignorance and lack of time I am just going to go by your recommendations. I prefer not to have to deal with adapters. Just buy, put together, and shoot. Frankly most of the comments go above my head, as I am really clueless about digital. Thanks a lot

Thank you. My only 35mm camera is Leica M6. With a summicron 35. Which other lens would go on an M6 that also goes on an affordable mirrorless digital (or DSLR)?

Been shooting film since I started. I need digital for some occasions, I discovered, and looking for some advice as this is a world that I am completely unfamiliar with (digital cams). I need good quality prime lens since I got used to that (I am used to sharp lenses and don't want to downgrade much). I prefer smaller size cameras, easier to carry around and flexible in a street photo setting (which is most of what I do). This seems like I should opt for mirorrless. Doesn't have to have crazy MP. And I need it to be affordable <2000. I understand that there is a million choice, and each one has its + and -, but if you know of a system that fits the above needs please let me know. Also I am lost, how do I know which lens work with which system? If I like a lens (Milvus zeiss for example), how do I find a mirorrless that I can use it with? Thanks

Hello, I have taken some shots (120 films) that are very important to me, but I can't process these films now that everything is closed for weeks at least. I am also not leaving home nor I plan to make a trip to the post office/dropbox. My room has become very humid and I am worried and they have been there for weeks. Are you sure that I can just move the films the fridge? I have read that but I wanted to double check. I want a place to store them for at least a month or two. Also fridge vs freezer? I am in disbelief that it is actually OK to freeze exposed and unprocessed film (shrinkage, temp damage...?). Grateful for advice from people experience with the subject.

Hi, I am driving from Baltimore to Los Angeles. I have been taking pictures on my road trips of interesting man-made landscape and artifacts in the middle of nowhere, empty spaces ... Things that could look like leftovers from an ancient civilization that has since disappeared... I have not left yet. Hoping to get suggestions if anyone has? I am going through the following states most likely: Missouri, oklahoma, north texas (amarillo), new mexico, arizona, california

Hi, I am an old schooler using film cameras that are renown for sharpness and detail (leica, mamiya,...). I have come increasingly upon some impressive iphone photos and serious photographers who use iphone. For my intellectual curiosity, I wonder where does the iphone7 (and other smart phones) stand in comparison to professional cameras in terms of sharpness? Given that these are tiny lenses (I am assuming fixed length) what is the technology behind this? Any resources on the matter. Thank you J

Hi all, I have been taking street and documentary fine art photography. Some of what I do is a bit conceptual too. I wonder, how do such photographers make money? Since it is not about one shot but rather a series/project. For example, how do street photographers eventually create income? (other than teaching) Thanks

Hi there I am not from LA, but after a road trip that ends in LA I would like to develop my 120 film color (c-41). Any place you recommend that does a good job and that offers scanning the film onto digital medium (hopefully a flash drive). I take photography seriously and have made a big investment in this project so I want to make sure I go to a trusted place. THANKS

<p>LesSarlie, thanks for this great suggestion. I did not do that, because with this format I lose so much resolution. So I guess when doing like this you scan at a very very high resolution (which? I have the same scanner).</p> <p>Thanks </p>

<p>Like the attached. How can I do it consistently? My Scanner did this by mistake, when I scanned a color film in B&W, when I scan it in color it does not do it. But it is not reliable. I think it is cool. I can do it digitally through photoshop but it's not the same.... </p> <p>Thanks</p> <div></div>

<p>I use the standard TX 400, go to the lab and use D-76, 1:1, usual time and all. <br> This is not the first time that one of the films in the roll turns out weird. It is almost as if I accidentally developed a color film or something. It looks like it has not developed well, and it has this weird orangy color. You can only see the negative picture if you really put it in the light and it will appear rather superficial you can see it more from one side than the other.. </p> <p>Any idea of what could be going on? </p>

<p>I guess my problem is that when I downsize the image, using either of the options (dimensions by pixels of size in KB of file, which I assume are equivalent) is that when they open the image in a mac the image will always show the same size and my model will not understand that this is meant to be a small picture, to be shown only in a smaller format...<br> it is weird that my default picture viewer in Mac does not care about the size and always shows the picture full screen... </p>

<p>OK my message got derailed. My bad if question not clear: <br> I am working in lightroom 5. Can I make my picture small and lock it that way so that my model does not open it too big (Showing unflattering details)? <br> On MAc, I vary the size, limiting by size in KB, but no matter what size, when I click on the picture outsize lightroom it shows in the same size, so I think it just loses pixels, but not actual size... </p>

<p>help much appreciated, I am supposed to send pictures to this model but have been having troubles since new to lightroom/digital processing in general. </p> <p>here is the process I do, and my questions are below: <br> (a) I shoot film 35mm.<br> (b) Scan on epson at: 24 bit color at 800dpi, sometimes 1200dpi. Although I mostly do B&W I scan in color, I heard this advice somewhere, also I like the "color" of the Trix film, it has this signature color that I like to keep. <br> © edit in photoshop elements or now (as of few days) in lightroom. </p> <p>If you have any comments on this let me know. My questions: <br> - I want to send the model a small picture size because it looks better (less unflattering details, less grain visible). Is there a way to limit the size of the picture to a certain size, such that if she opens it in either software the picture will not be blown up big? I know this sound like stupid but I remember when I was on windows and used to work with elements at some point when I reduce the size of the picture it will open small from any software I use to open.... Would be great in fact if I can even lock the size so that it never open larger than a certain cutoff<br> - how should I chose the resolution when I export the image to jpeg? it shows me the standard 240 pixels per inch, and I typically chose that. </p> <p>Thanks a lot. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the ideas. Indeed it is a magnum workshop. I was not aware of the organized protest in mid march, I was aware that things have been pretty rough, security wise, demonstrations, and so on. <br> Lex, indeed, I am not interested in those three themes that you suggest streering away from. Your suggestion regarding local politics, demonstration, the after impact is interesting. <br> I feel that having someone there on the ground would be very much of help since clearly they would know better what is safe or not and where to go and talk to folks. Not sure how to do that. <br> Also I wonder whether renting a car would be of any help.</p> <p>Thanks </p>

<p>I am going there for a photo/documentary workshop and would very much appreciate speaking with someone who is living there to get some advice. <br> Ideally I would like to select a topic, a thing to do, before I get there. It is always best if I can manage to get in touch with a group of active young people and take photos of them over several days, but of course this is not the only idea... <br> if you live there and are willing to answer a couple of questions please email me or write a note on this thread... <br> Thanks a lot.. </p>

<p>Thank you for your responses. Frankly the workshop is organized by prestigious photographers have done a lot of film work, even recently. It is just that reality is digital is faster to process and the workshop takes place over 3 days only. <br> So my question is really: any famous/notable/serious photographers, particularly documentary or street, have done work with Polaroid? any recommendations about good polaroid cameras? <br> I applied for the workshop and I plan to go if they accept. </p> <p> </p>

<p>OK. So I usually do film (standard rangefinder) but nowadays workshops tell me that they cannot accommodate, or they will not schedule the workshop to work around, the slower pace of film photographers. <br> I really do not want to do digital, so Polaroid came to mind! The question is, I need to get inspired and see what is out there.<br> Can someone please recommend photographers (street, documentary) who work with Polaroid? Where should I start reading to find and decide on a good quality picture? I like the combination of sharp and dreamy, or dreamy but reliable. </p> <p>Many thanks </p>

<p>First, and this is really naive, but when I scan my 35mm using an epson scan, I get a scan that is NOT 4*6 aspect ratio. If I google 35mm I get an aspect ratio of 3/2=6/4. But if I wiki 35mm I get an aspect ratio of 1.375<<1.5. If Wiki is right this explains things, but why would Photoshop not have a standard 35mm aspect ratio. I know I am asking a stupid question. </p> <p>Second, I have been using TriX for a long time. I always use D76 developer, and sometimes push films. Now Sometimes when I scan the film as B&W, I sometimes get near-sepia color. Now I LIKE Trix 400 for these (mid-range?) colors, but sometimes it comes out as a bit too close to Sepia which is not what I am trying to do. If I ask photoshop to take out the color the picture looks quite different (but I don't want to do that because it takes from the Trix effect). </p> <p>Thanks a bunch </p>

<p>I forgot to mention that 6X9 is very nice too, I also see that there is a Fuji but sharpness is questionable it seems on this Fuji. </p>

<p>I was thinking of buying a Mamiya 7 because of its sharpness and the fact that it is a light RF. <br> My problem is that 6x7 is weird, isn't it? I stare at a picture that my eyes can barely distinguish from a square... does not seem intuitive enough, not natural I guess, not one of those ratios that strike you as perfect... <br> My options are to always crop my work from Mamiya or look at another format such as 6x8 or 6x4.5...<br> I know there are cameras that take such film such as Fuji (for 6X8) or Mamiya or else for the latter, but I think none of these are RF or light... <br> Any RF options? I am willing to consider non-RF if I hear a strong recommendation for a camera with amazing glass and reliability... With medium format anyway I guess I would consider using a tripod...</p> <p>PS: my others are a Leica M6 (love it) and Mamiya C330 (which I think is not sharp enough)</p>

I have seen it listed for widely different prices and unfortunately not available through keh.. Do you have any suggestions of which stores i could buy a used one while not worrying about getting a lemon? Also, very different question, what is the sharpest lens on mamiya 7 ii? Thanks all...

<p>OK I was reading around and I had a change of heart and was convinced by readings and the comments that Maco Pro might be the way to go for photo editing and light laptop. Below is for $1900. Sounds good?</p> <h1> </h1> <p><strong>Macbook Pro retina Display, 15.4'', 8GB memory, 256 GB Flash storage</strong><br> <strong>Processor speed 2.0GHz (Low??)</strong><br> <strong>2880 x 1800 pixel LED-backlit </strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Intel Iris Pro Graphics</strong></p> <p><strong>Mac OS X 10.9 Mavericks</strong><br> <strong>Weight: 4.46lbs</strong><br> <strong> </strong></p>

<p>Thanks guys.. although the last thing I wanted was a Mac vs Windows battle, to make it simple I am going to go for windows, and was hoping for specific suggestions on the laptop (my budget is not all too limited...)</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi all,</p> <p>I need to buy a laptop, and I am sort of a technophobe. I do film photo, and use a scanner to scan negatives then edit them on Photoshop. <br> I am reluctant to go to Mac (for a technophobe switching is not fun) UNLESS you think it is the best choice for photographers, but I know things have changed during the last 5 years. </p> <p>What I need in my laptop: </p> <p>- speed & power & memory<br> - great resolution, easy to calibrate, the usual needs for a photographer ... <br> - light to carry and not too large (not over 14" screen)<br> - preferably windows system </p> <p>My budget is probably 1500 but willing to go up to 2K if worth it.. </p> <p>Thanks a lot! </p> <p> </p>