Jump to content

10986431

Members
  • Posts

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 10986431

  1. Thanks Sandy! You will be glad to hear the cap is now off and after twisting it the correct way with an even pressure all the way around I have finally got the lid off, few!
  2. OK weird one, For some reaqson I can't seem to be able to take the back of the lens cap off of a bronica etr lens, does anyone have any advice on how I might deal with this. It seems ridiculous to me this has happened but here I am. Also I am now questioning which way I turn it, any help here for this very weird issue much apprecited.
  3. haha amazing thanks. Yes ok maybe a touch of crazy then hahaha! What about the paper used as backing paper? What could that be made from?
  4. Wow this is so interesting, appreciate all the info here. What I am trying to do is make a DIY lightproof pocket for the film to remain outside the of light, so kind of my own double-darkslide I guess. This isn't for anything crazy just interested in what can be used for keeping light sensitive film safe. I was hoping to use something rather thin much like 120 backing paper, I just can't work out any product on the market thats thin and would allow for this, If I wanted to make my own DIY film for cameras I would love to include the lightproof backing paper. Anyone know of anything that could feasibly do this? Obviously I could recycle old 120 film backing paper but I want to try my own from scratch. Maybe its possible to paint the back of the film with something that would make it lightproof? How does a polaroid negative manage it or what material is 120 film using? Its all very interesting and I really want to play around with it to learn it more. Any help/ideas or useful links very much appreciated!
  5. Hi all Just interested to know if theres any B&W sheet film that has a lightproof back. If not what could one do to ensure the back is lightproof?
  6. OK amazing, thanks for the responses on this, I just caught up with the thread after a trip I just got back from. Out of interest what is the blackout coating on the back of a polaroid negative? Also being new to film photography and its intricacies in general, what is a negative emulsion and how does it differ to a negative cellulose? My BIG question then is with a peel-apart how is the photo taken on the negative side not light protected and then pressed onto the receiving paper and kept lightproof? Amazing isn't it, how this works.
  7. Hi all wondering if anyone knew the answer the answer to this here. with regards to the old Polaroid black and white peel apart instant film I was wondering how the films negative didn’t get ruined when ejected from the camera. I understand the paper being protected as it’s reversed and covered by the negative and all the gunk but it seems odd the negative doesn’t get ruined when ejected, maybe I’m missing something?
  8. wow thanks so much! Yes it is the folding one and yes that does seem exactly like the issue. Before attempting this myself can you suggest somewhere I might be able to do this that wouldn’t cost the earth. I love this camera and really want to get this back in service. seems like the steps might be a little tricky for my skill set but could try it if there’s no other option. Appreciate your help so much!
  9. Hi all hope you can help me diagnose the issue and maybe even what it would take to fix it. Basically I have a lovely SX-70 sonar polaroid and weirdly when I put new film in it didn't eject the darkslide or make any noise at all. Then I took it out and put it back in whilst the camera wasn't fully extended and iit worked fine. It seems intermittently that when the camera is fully folded out and snapped into place that there seems to be some kind of power shorting. Any idea what this might be at all? Sometimes it works fine as well, weird huh. Its a beautiful magical camera and love using it so any help on this highly appreciated. Best, Scott
  10. Hi all Ok well it seems its an issue withe the lens most likely. Its very hard to turn any of the settings. I took it into a great camera shop, one of the original old proper style ones in a small town in MA where they were kind enough to have a quick look. If anyone is selling a cheap bronica lens for the ETR system do let me know. Thanks everyone.
  11. Ok there’s something wrong with the camera for sure. It’s hard to describe so I made this video so you can see. Seems the shutter has an issue? I change to different shutter speeds and it’s the same. It also seems to stay open (check when I put the dark slide in and out). Anybody able to help me work out if there’s anything I can do or what’s going on/wrong. It seems such a shame to toss such a beautiful thing but repairs seem more than buying one again. Any help much appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oygBrZcELKI
  12. Hi there. Oh I just did it to rule out the finder had an issue. It didn’t and I doubted it highly but want to try everything I can to fix this. I’m going to take a look at this pin when I get home and see if that’s the issue.
  13. Wonderful I shall do this. Thank you!
  14. Hi all hoping someone might be able to help me troubleshoot an issue I am having with a Bronica etr. basically I have a Bronica setup consisting of an ETR body, a 120 back and the prism finder and a 150mm lens. I have a new battery in the camera and that seems great whilst doing the battery check. I also see the metering in the viewfinder of the ae prism. Issue I’m having is the film is coming out completely blank. Tried two different rolls, one color and one b and w. Both blank. The film isn’t jet black it’s completely pale after processing. I checked the back and made sure I’m doing the film correctly, I followed YouTube videos and all seems correct. I line up the arrow close the back and advace the film. It’s operating as it should. The dark slide is removed. Everything clicks when it should and seems as though everything is operating correctly. I’m taking accurate light meter readings and adjusting the settings accordingly. ISO is correct etc etc. the film is blank. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong or what might be causing this? Any help so appreciated.
  15. Another one of the better ones. Seriously this is so fun. I should add that during the process I added way more time to the stages than listed on the box. Also I shot this at 25iso rather than 40 or whatever it normally is. Once everything was in the machine I pressed the leaver down and waited 4 minutes rather than 5 seconds. I did this whilst also raising the back of the machine up a little bit so the developer goo could slip down easier. I then rolled the handle then waited 10 minutes rather than 60 seconds. Then wound the film back then ejected the film, ran it under cold water and rubbed it gently top get the black film off. Again, very fun.
  16. Hi all OK as promised I mentioned I'd get back to you with my polachrome trials. Well, I think it went WAY better than I ever thought. I have posted some to my profile but heres an example of one of the better ones, even though it was right at the end of the roll. You can see how its pixilated etc but I wasn't expecting to get an image at all. This was scanned at 600dpi on my epson V550. What do you think? Some come out darker but as this seems to pick up on bright colors its probably worth using in that context.
  17. Expired in 1998 but still coming out better than I thought it would!
  18. I 100% agree but if you have it lying around it seems a waste not to use it even if its just for some kind of practice. I haven't tried anymore yet but will be at box speed once I get the chance. Also its honestly just super fun and one of things that makes film so much more interesting than digital. Saying this using unexpired is a very good ideas for beginners such as I.
  19. OK wow, this is all so helpful. Thanks so much!
×
×
  • Create New...