clark_roberts

<p>Hi all<br> I was able to purchased a CF 80mm f2.8 lens at a great price, but it has one issue the lens will not <br> stay open when the shutter is cocked, when I got the lens the linkage that you turn to cock the shutter<br> was out of the lens so I removed the rear mount and put it back in and I could see when you turn it<br> where it should go into the groove and stay there but it spins, does anyone have a photo or diagram<br> how to set it so it stays. It a great lens and want to fix it if I can.<br> Thanks <br> Clark</p>

<p>I just received my roll back and they look great!</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> To all you guys and gals that have a Pro 100 how do you like it? I have the i9900 and want <br> to upgrade, I just like the built quality and the ability to change heads if need be. I also get concerned <br> that there is so many on ebay that it's not that good, but can't believe that.</p> <p>Thanks <br> Clark </p>

<p>Okay thank you.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Is it okay to switch front and rear element groups from one lens chassis to <br> another? I know it's a no no in a Rolleiflex TLR but maybe there a slim chance<br> in a Hassie lens?<br> Clark</p>

<p>I also thank you guy's here for this thread.<br> Clark</p>

<p>Time for it to get check out I guess.<br> Clark</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I've been using my Hassie 500C/M and it has a odd thing that it does, when I take a picture <br> and advance the crank the mirror and I think the two flaps open on there own without pressing <br> the shutter button. It's a bit odd to say the least, any ideas?</p> <p>Clark</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Well I purchased a friends Hasselblad 500CM and so far it's working good but after using it a few times <br> some things came up like the film back being a bit loose. I watched a few video's and did a little reading and <br> took the plunge today and took it apart, first thing I notice was the two screws that hold the latch on was <br> loose so I tighten those and that went well, next I saw on the top of the chassis there are two screw that<br> hold the back panel on and for some reason they were loose and sticking up and I hope I did the right<br> thing by tightening them back down hopefully to no ill effect. I put it all back together and the film back<br> goes on great with no shifting or looseness. Any advice about this would be great, even the screw that<br> holds the assembly on for the advance crank was loose as well so I'm glad I help it a little.</p> <p>Thanks <br> Clark <br> </p>

<p>Thanks guy's, the lens is going back to KEH tomorrow. I took a few picture's and on a bright <br /> sunny day when taking pictures of objects with white in them, they had a bit of strange glow. <br />So I took a flashlight and found a finger print smear on one of the rear element's inside and a strange <br /> ring type film or fog, I never saw that before in a lens, so back it goes.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I've just received a 80mm C T* lens and I need a hood for it, but going thru ebay <br> and it's hard to figure out which would fit. I would like a plastic on a hasselblad made <br> one for sure, any advice would be helpful.</p> <p>Clark </p>

<p>I have one of those as well, got it at a great buy on ebay and after it was fixed up it works <br> great! <br> Thanks for the photo of yours.<br> Clark</p>

<p>This isn't good I picked up the Rolleiflex 3.5F model 1 and crank her up and nothing the shutter <br> does nothing now, odd isn't it. Does the model 1 have more of problems with it's shutter than <br> the later ones, I mean more prone to failure?<br> Clark </p>

<p>I did mess up another camera, I wanted to clean the shutter but the back of it and the only <br> way back there was to take out the rear element, so this was on a 3.5f model one and when <br> I turned which thinking was the way to get the rear element off it was in turn the cloth light <br> baffle which went plop inside the camera and that's it, besides it needs a bit more help so <br> it's off to a repair unless there's away to get it reattach??</p>

<p>Thanks Brett, I just did a little cleaning and lubing to the transport side and wow the grease was <br /> dried out in some areas, I relubed those areas only and I feel the difference now when cranking<br />the film advance.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Just a update I'm finishing the 3.5F today, I adjusted the focusing knob and fix the problem <br> with the taking lens, I used a old 6008 split image focusing screen and with a loupe laying it <br> on the film plane and adjusting at infinity the taking lens till it was sharp, next was the viewing lens<br> and adjust the lens and screen till sharp. Now I know what your saying (arrrg!) but I'm giving <br> it a go will let you know how I make out when I put a roll a film thru it.</p> <p>Clark</p>

<p>The problem is not the viewing lens, with the ground glass on the film plane and a loupe and the focusing<br> dial (I just love the sound of that) set at infinity the infinity focus is off I have to set it at about 60ft mark<br> on the dial and then it's sharp and clear. </p>

<p>Nope it's not the viewing lens issue, I put a ground glass screen at the film plane and checked <br> with a loupe and the infinity focus is off a bit, so I guess if I keep the camera I have to get <br> it adjusted by a pro, I didn't pay much for it and the background is tack sharp, unless I adjust <br> the viewing lens to match the taking lens for now.</p> <p>Clark</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Well I got my film back from the Rollei yesterday and I don't see any problems <br> with the marks on the front element. It does have a back focus issue, I focused on to ladies <br> at a park and they were blurry but the background was sharper, well like I did with the 3.5E <br> I adjusted the viewing lens to get it right.</p> <p>Clark</p>

<p>Thank you all for the responses, I'm finishing the roll in the 3.5F today and getting it processed<br /> as well, here's hoping all goes well and the pictures come out good at least. I'll keep you guy's<br /> informed on how it turns out, and Robert above said it right about not butchering the camera's.<br /> Clark</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Well this is it, I have two Rolleiflex's a 3.5E serial #2276829 with a planer lens and a 3.5F serial #1760211 <br> with a Schneider Xenotar lens, so can the lenses be switch or will the focusing be off. I just wanted to know <br> because the 3.5F has a bit more scratches on the front element. I'm going to finish the roll in the 3.5F <br> tomorrow and get them processed, to see if there's any ill affect, the camera is working good, but will see.<br> Next I saw online a gentlemen who has parts or repair's the selenium meter cell was I seeing or those day's <br> are gone, besides I can't find the website again.</p> <p>Thanks <br> Clark</p>

<p>I found a great deal on a hood and case, very clean close to mint looks great an the 3.5E</p> <p>Thanks to all</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Finally cleaned up my 3.5e, received all the way from Brazil a parts body with good leather <br> and nicer crank and side panel for the film advance side. It came out real nice but in time I <br> need a new screen and have a CLA which I think will be the best for this guy. </p>

<p>It is a great thread, I do have a 3.5E now and was thinking of getting a 3.5F but now I think I'll <br> use the E for awhile and see how it works.</p> <p>Clark</p>

<p>Hi,<br> I went for a Rolleiflex 6002 and picked up a 3.5E TLR, when I got the prints back for the <br> 6002 (I put them on a CD) I printed them and wow they turned out great, looked into those.<br> Just be careful a lot were use by pro's and were really used, the 6002's because the backs <br> don't change weren't used by pro's as much so you could get one in great condition .</p> <p>Clark </p>