pete_resetz

<p> I was at Procam in Livonia, Michigan earlier today to pickup a replacement battery pack for my D2Hs,(George the owner gave me a deal on it I might add) and in the vestibule where they keep the product brochures, I grabbed one for the Nikon D5. In it is a comparison of the D5 to the D3 and D4. I thought that this kind of unusual that Nikon would want to downplay their older D's. From what I've read in the brochure and online postings and seen from Nikon's website, there isn't that much of a difference between the three cameras other than pixel count going up and a few other things. So apparently with such a small difference between them, Nikon felt the need to convince us that there is more than really is. Or is this in the words of Yogurt from the movie, Spaceballs, MAKITING !</p> <p> Any thoughts on this ?</p><div></div>

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<p>Prateet. You mentioned that a body of water is in front of the buildings. You could be experiencing mirage. I have had bad results in the past photographing aquatic birds when they were more than a 100 yards/meters away from me on lakes. And the warmer the day the more mirage there is blurring my images. Water will hold the Sun's heat more so than land will. I don't know how big a body of water is in front of the buildings, but the bigger the body of water, and the farther the distance, the more the effect of mirage is. This is something you might consider.</p>

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<p> I just found out recently that Nikon will no longer sell repair parts to the public nor unauthorized camera repair businesses. Nor will an Nikon authorized repair business sell you parts. So you'er going to have to find the parts on maybe E Bay were some one parts out a SB-600 in you'er case the flash tube's. As far as the zoom motor, again E Bay. This disappointing me with Nikon doing this because I used to repair my own cameras and other equipment myself.</p> <p> The thing is the SB-600 sell used for about $150.00-$250.00. Nikon's repair will be about $150.00 +.</p>

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<p> As I said previously, is that the camera companies are like the car companies. One come out with a new body style and every one else follows suit. And when it comes to options, options sell. The average consumer would feel cheated if their favorite brand of camera didn't have the same options as a competing brand.</p> <p> My biggest beef is the video option built into DSLR's. One person said if you don't want to take video, don't use it. But that video function increased the cost of the camera. Worst of all is that DSLR.s are not ergonomically designed for video. Look at a dedicated video camera and it's designed to be held in a manner so as to be as stable as possible. With a DSLR you lose that stability. Sure some can argue that image stabilization would counter that but it is more costly, and something else that will only break down do to its complexity. The Nikon D3X is the last dedicated still capture DSLR. I morn it's production end. </p> <p> </p>

<p> The Moon is on a clear night, approximately 1/10 of the Sun's brightness at high noon. Also one must take into account the atmospheric conditions. The best time of the year to take Moon photos is in February when the air has the least amount of mirage, which is from ground heat rising into the upper atmosphere, also where you point the camera from and whats in front of you. A house in the dead of winter will give off heat which will cause mirage. Winds currents of the differing layers of the atmosphere are something else to take into consideration. Atmospheric pollutants can also affect your image coloration along with light pollution. This has been simplified. </p> <p> You can use the NOAA's (National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration) web site found at www.weather.gov to help plan your next photo shoot. Plus some of the astronomy magazines have on line tutorials to help further you in your quest for the perfect Moon picture.</p>

<p> I had owned two F5's and had considered the MF-28 back, but decide to down load the data from the cameras metadata, which I don't believe is doable any more because the software for that was based on pre Windows 94.</p> <p>Did some research and the MF-27 will only imprint the date between the frames. This can be a problem if you have your film developed by someone else and if you don't specify that film not be cut into 5 frame strips. The MF-28 will imprint date and time in differing sequences according to what type you want, in between the frame or within the image. On top of that it has a host of other options that I don't think are prurient to you'er need. </p> <p> Just a suggestion, but why not pick up a used Nikon D1x or D2h for about $150.00(US) which will record what you need as far as date and time. Then for free download from Nikon's website the Capture NX-D editing software so can access the metadata which will have the date and time. Your going to spend as much on the data back as you would with ether of those two cameras.</p>

<p> As a cheaper option for now, you might consider downloading from Nikon's website for free, the Capture NX-D editing software. It's a little more than basic, but still has a nice function for correcting distortion and vignetting if you're useing a modern Nikon DSLR and Nikon lens. It apparently knows through the metadata what lens you're using and at what focal length the lens is set for and corrects the barrel or pincushion distortion. It's a simple click of the mouse. Also just below that option is the correction for vignetting. It's same, click on that option. Also if you have any chromatic aberration, you can correct for that, although I believe your camera automatically corrects for that. </p> <p> I use it with my D2Hs and what has become one of my favorite Nikon lens, the 18-70mm DX AF-S. </p>

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<p> Try "SPOT METERING". (Page 60 in the user manual.) Also set the camera for "MANUAL EXPOSURE" which is easier to hold your exposer setting.(Page 57 in the user manual.) </p> <p> If you rely on matrix metering in an auto mode, you will be letting the camera make the decision without taking the composition in consideration. Your son might be located in an area that is less light than the rest of the band. I use spot metering for about 30% of my shooting.</p>

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Edited w/ Nikon Capture NX-D<div></div>

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<p>The main reason for the Nikon replaceable focusing screen, is to allow the use of a GRID type screen for architectural photography. The grid is to help one to determine composition to help keep vertical and horizontal features as linear as possible. This is helpful if one is using one of Nikon's TILT/SHIFT lenses.</p> <p>These types of screens are and were offered in the prosumer and pro cameras. Also, in the past Nikon offered specialty focus screens for the likes of astrography, document copying, and as stated earlier, manual focusing with lenses with an aperture of f/8 or more.</p> <p>I have owned and used the grid screens in the past for my Nikon FM's and F5's.</p> <p>Nikon has a habit of hiding these screens on there web sites. You should contact them if you're really interested.</p> <p> </p>

<p> I was finally able to contact Apple in regards to this issue, and they informed me that it would not be possible to use the iPod as a post capture/review monitor. Instead I'll use it as a mini portfolio. I'll just have to spend the money and get an iPad/tablet to do this.<br> Thanx for all the responses.</p>

<p> Paul C.<br> Just out of curiosity. Is it for sale on Craigslist from Ann Arbor, Michigan for $990.00US. I was considering it or that AF-S 80-200m f2.8D ED on the same page. My concern is that Nikon for an example, can not repair the 80-200 any more do to a lack of repair parts. Not trying to shy you away from it, but some to think about with the older Nikon lens. <br> Pete from the Detroit, MI. area.</p>

<p> Miha; It is a a Ipod Touch A1288 (2nd. gen.)a friend gave me.<br> Wouter; I would like to use it as a post capture/review monitore. I do understand that the D2's doesn't have Live View. Also. I don't want to use the WT-1 Transmitter because it will down load the images which I want to preserve on the CF card. <br> Thanx. I'm just looking into if I can achieve this on the cheap.</p>

<p> Does anyone know how I can tether my D2Hs to an Apple Ipod to use as a remote monitor ? I contacted Apple two days ago and I'm still waiting for an answer from them. Also if there is a free app if needed. I did an Internet search with no luck.</p>

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