pete_resetz

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<p> Luis; Try looking at nodevice.com. They sell online repair manuals that one can buy and download in pdf form for Nikon and different other brands of lens, and they have a low res sample of the lens exploded schematic on each lens page. I didn't see your lens listed, but you could look at the ones for the AF 28mm f2.8 and the AF 35mm f2 lens because they are of the same design as your AF 50mm f1.4.</p> <p> Also. If you do a Google search for Nikon Lens Schematic, you'll find a higher res version of the AF 28mm f2.8 lens to help guide you if you want to attempt a repair yourself. I have repaired many of my lenses over the years with and without these schematics. Hint. Take pictures of every phase of the disassembly to guide you in the reassembly. That's if you want go that rout.</p>

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<p>Heidi; I used Nikon FM's for twenty years before stepping up the Nikon F5's with it's 99% accurate matrix meter, but with FM's, I would set the focus on the lens at infinity then take a meter reading of the palm of my hand filling the viewfinder to set a baseline, then either stop the lenses aperture down one full stop or use a one full stop higher shutter speed. You could get a gray card to establish a baseline. This worked for me very well for the film I used mostly back then.(Kodak Ektachrome)</p>

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<p> Get as long a lenses that you can't afford. Then sell it when you get home. You will want to stay as far from Bison as possible, (Wild Bison are not very people friendly.) and with the D5500 supposedly high ISO pic quality, that Nikon 200-500 mite be a good choice. Also the crop factor of DX, give an efective focal length of 300-750mm.</p> <p> Shoot RAW. </p>

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<p> Shun; I would keep logs of the batteries life as matter of my shooting log. I also would set the camera's meter on time at the shortest duration and very seldom use the LCD backlight and rewind the film manually. Maybe I got two F5's that were perfect in their assembly and parts. As a side note, I made a cold weather remote battery pack by taking a MS-30 battery tray and soldered a five foot two conductor power cord to it and the other end to a eight AA cell battery holder that I would keep in my coat. I don't have that battery tray/pack any more, but if you're interested I can get it to send you a picture of it. I also made a heated coat for the camera out of battery powered heated socks. Got that idea from NASA.</p>

<p>Edward Ingold; with Energizer Lithium disposables, I would get 15-25, 36 exp. rolls of Kodak NC160 a month for six months in my F5's. That would be between 90-150 rolls of film. As far as rechargeables, I was using Energizer rechargeable NiMh cells at the time. Lithium's if available would probably last longer, but they weren't around back then ten years ago.</p> <p> Sorry that I responded so late but I have been working 12- 15 hour days as of late.</p>

<p> The F5 was my hands down favorite before stepped up to digital. I used the Energizer Lithiums (disposables) in mine and would get about six months out of a set of eight cells, running 15-25 rolls a month. Yes they're expensive, but they weight less than Alkalines or rechargeables and have very good temperature extreme characteristics. One can pick up a used F5 for about $200.00(US) and they are built like a M1 tank. The matrix metering is 99% accurate and the shutter will last up 300,000 cycles. ( Read about one with over 1,000,000 cycles on it) Also in the custom functions, one can set the camera to run the film out to 38 exposures. </p> <p> My only dislike was the vertical grip in my hands never felt full. Also, one needs a cheat sheet for the custom options. It's like Nikon used a obscure form of Bullion mathematics for the custom setting codes.</p>

<p> Shun; Dig through an old posted query of mine from about a month and half ago about a replacement EN-EL4, and one of two of the responders had had bad luck with the cheap Chinese made battery packs. I also had found similar posting on other camera user web sites. Though the Promaster that I purchased yesterday is indeed made in China, it comes with a one year warranty. The purity of the Lithium used in the cells can vary. Also the battery packs diagnostic circuit components and assembly can vary in their quality. Sometimes you get what you pay for. I know this from when back in the 80's, I used to race in competition 1,10 scale electric RC cars and ended up building my own NiCd battery packs. I ended up useing only Gated or Sanyo cells. Most everything else was poop.</p> <p> The usage of the AA battery tray is good alternative. Something that I wish my camera had the option for.</p> <p> Y'all have have good day now. I,m off to burn up some electrons taking some hopefully good wildflower pics on this beautiful sunny day.</p>

<p> Sandy; Wasabi ? I suppose that these are the hottest batteries on the market.</p> <p> As a side note. I'm cutting open my dead EN-EL4 and going to replace the cells with 3000ma Sanyo's. I found a battery store that will spot weld the metal connector tabs on the cells for me. The cells in those battery packs are three, 3.7 volt 18650's</p><div></div>

<p> Ken; I looked at the PDF manual of your D700 downloaded from Nikon, and on page 340, it shows the menu option for the battery info/status. On that screen in the bottom right, will be a graph that read from left to right, is the charge life of the battery. 0= good, 4= buy a new battery. If you don't have a PDF reader and don't have the user manual for your camera, go to the menu and on the left side of that screen, scroll down to the wrench icon. That is were you'll find your battery info. I'm going assume that it will show the status of the EN-EL4a in the MB-10 when attached to the camera.</p> <p> I had to myself, buy a new EN-EL4a for my Nikon D2Hs yesterday. Also I like to add a word of caution. If you have to replace that battery, buy the Nikon replacement, or one from Promaster. There is a plethora of Chinese made replacement EN-EL4/EN-EL4a's out there on the Internet for $25-$35(US), and in my research for my replacement found that some of them are not all that well made. Also, I was told by a store owner of a Batteries+Bulbs store that, Lithium Ion batteries will deteriorate over time regardless of useage. Their shelf life is about four years. That also depends on how one discharges and recharges the battery.</p> <p> </p>

<p> Erik; It's the brochures catalog number. And the whole point was, that this is one of the few times I have seen a company compare its former products. That's all. I'm not knocking the D5's advancements. </p>

<p> Leszek; I don't have any interest in acquiring anything more than a D3X, which for me will in all likelihood will be my end game DSLR. I'm not interested in video. Just waiting for the used prices on them to come down, and this is so I can use my Nikkor 15mm f/3.5 AI-S lens again to it's full effect.</p> <p> Also I'm a brochure junky. Like to keep abreast on what's new like what Lamborghini latest offering is. Will all likelihood never own one, but it's still interesting for me know about.</p>

<p> Rodeo and Elliot; I get what you're saying, but I found this comparison odd. Usually a company will compare the improvement of their product against a competitor's. That's all.</p> <p> If you're interested, it's; D5-COMPARE-31-1/16 15-355</p>

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