pete_resetz

<p> I my be chiming in a little late on this but, my Nikkor Micro 60mm f/2.8 AF and 105mm f/2.8 AF-D lenses. Every thing from Infinity to 1:1 is just stunningly sharp. Even the mundane images hold so much detail within them mounted on my older D1X. Then my D2X made me realize how really sharp these lens are. <br> Recently I was allowed to use a D3X for a day. All I can say is WOW. I am legally blind in the right eye and, that camera with those lenses produced images that appeared almost three dimensional to me. <br> The newer Micro lens might be a little bit sharper on paper but, I feel that the old Mark 1 eyeball is going to have hard to time telling the difference.<br> One thing I have noticed over the years of watching and reading scientific type of TV programs and publications, that whenever a camera lens is adapted to some kind imaging device, it's usually one of those two lens. Gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.<br> I would also like to add the Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S G lens. It probably a mistake for Nikon to discontinue this lens. It's one more sharpy.<br> These lens produce images with excellent color, contrast and, resolution, and I can go out into the field with these three lens and have everything covered from ant's sharing my lunch to senics.</p>

<p>I have been using the Nikon/Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 AF, 105mm f/2.8 AF-D, and 70-180mm f/4.5-5.6 AF-D, lens for over ten years now, and in my opinion, the 60mm give me the most natural perspective. It does not suffer from telephoto compressive effect you get with the longer focal lengths.<br /> The older design 60mm AF-D is still being sold as new, (used for about $250-$300) and has about an inch and a half more working distance from the front lens then the newer 60mm AF-S dose.<br /> The Nikon/Nikkor 85mm f/3.5 is not a very sharp lens compared to the other Nikon/Nikkor offerings of which I have tested two examples myself.<br /> With the 60mm AF-D mounted to either my Nikon D1X, and D2X, with the Nikon SB-80DX flashes head tilted down, wide angle fresnel deployed, and the diffuser dome attached, I get an even illumination of subjects with the lens set at 1:1, without any shadowing.<br /> Also,you might consider the Tamron 60mm f/2 macro lens of which I'll be purchasing in the near future. It has about the same working distance as the Nikon, and is just as sharp.<br /> You could also purchase a TTL sync cord for the flash and hold the flash next to the lens, and use a reflector on the off side. I do this all the time with good results.<br> The image example submitted is .470 in/12mm in size. Reproduction of 1:1.<br /> Pete Resetz</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p> Try "slrgear.com" for their lens test reviews, thats if they have a review for your lens. They do comprehensive testing of lens with an very informative chart of the lens blur factor that can be set for both any aperture and focal length. I use the blur chart to help determine the best aperture for my lens to optimize my image capture to obtain the highest sharpness from the lens that I've been using. <br> Keep in mind that most lens produce their best sharpness with the aperture set in its middle range. <br> Example; If the lens has a maximum aperture of say f/2.8, stop the lens down to f/5.6 to f/8. You my find also that your lens being a zoom will have different optimal aperture/sharpness for the different focal lengths.<br> Also, always use the highest shutter speed possible if your going to hand hold your camera, even with VR, which you don't have with that lens. And keep in mind DOF (depth of field) which is controlled by the aperture. <br> There are hundreds of online tutorials that can help teach you more about the technical aspects of lens physics. <br> Pete Resetz</p> <p> </p><div></div>