pete_resetz

<p> The Nikon F100, D1, D1H, D1X, D2H &s, D2X &s, all have the same on off switch. I have from Nikon the exploded schematic of the F100, and looking at, it shows that the switch is made up of two, two finger like contacts (part #1K010-320) that rotate with on/off collar. The switch board that the contacts contact is either worn or corroded, in which case you have to remove the top of the camera's body to access the switch. This is a rather complicated operation. Best to send it in to Nikon or a Nikon authorized repair. <br> I have attached a copy/file of that part of camera so you can see what up against.<br> You can try pressing down on the on/off collar when rotating it to the off position.</p>

<p> I have repaired about five Nikon/Nikkor over the years with good success only because I'm very mechanically inclined, but enough about me. <br> First do a Google search under "Nikon/Nikkor AF 180mm F/2.8D ED-IF lens schematic".(Minus the prentices) Select IMAGES near the screen top. Then scroll down until you find an exploded view of the lens you're looking. Nikon does not put them out on the Internet, but people like me who have had Nikon Parts send me those schematics to do my own repairs will post them.(I do not post them as to honor Nikon) If you find one with good enough resolution, study it to determine if you want to do the repair yourself. You can also call or email Nikon parts to see if they will email you or send you copies.<br> If you get a copy of the schematic and still want to do the repair yourself, go to Photo.net main Nikon forum page and look to the right side of that page for the "Forum Post by Catagory". Then look down the list to"Modification/Repair/Service". Click on that category and it should be ten items down under the title "Ruined Bayonet Mount Thread" by Chris Peacock, /2015/12/30, page #2. I wrote a rather comprehensive dissertation on the proper why to remove screws. If you have a way to secure the lens without causing any crushing damage to the lens for this is important to be able to work the screwdriver with both hands, one pushing the screwdriver down into screws slot and the other hand to turn the screwdriver.<br> It's also a good idea to photograph how you disassembled the lens as you're performing that. Stop every time you remove an item. This gives you references as to the parts orientations. Also get a largish box top like from a document box and some double sided tape or masking tape rolled into loops and attached to the box tops inside. This is where you will attach the screws and components in the order you removed them from the lens. This keeps them in order and you won't be losing them and trying reinsert the wrong screw during reassembly for as there are different screw through out the lens.<br> If this sounds to intimidating, then call around to the various authorized Nikon repair facilities. Nikon is probably the best for they will more than likely have the parts on hand where as a independent repairer will have to order any parts if necessary. Also with Nikon, if any lenses or lens groups have to be removed they mite have to be calibrated, and Nikon would have the bench equipment to do that.<br> That lens is definitely worth the effort. It is one of Nikon's sharpest lens they have produced. I believe that they still offer it in the same configuration, and I have often wished that they would repackage with the AF-S function. <br> Good luck; Pete Resetz</p> <p> </p> <p > </p> <p > </p> <p > </p> <p >"Forum Post by Catagory""Forum/Repair/Service"</p>

<p> Weighing in late on this but good info just the same. I have repaired many of my Nikon bodies and lens of the years. As one of the other responders had stated that Nikon uses a metric standard for there screws. First go to a well stocked tool supply store with your camera and try out different cross and flat tipped screwdriver. I own a large assortment that I have acquired over the years.<br> When trying to remove a screw form a metal body and chassised camera or lens, the screw will more than be likely be set in with some sort of thread locking compound. With a screw driver that fits the cross slot with as little play, you can some time loosen the screw by lightly tapping the end of the screwdrivers handle end with a small hammer. I emphasize LIGHT TAPPS. This will help drive the screw thread down somewhat as it was pulled up to the one side of the threaded hole when tightened. This can also break the thread locking compound if it's acrylic a type. Also press down firmly on the handle of the screw driver to lessen it from slipping out of the slot. Other thread locking compounds may require heat to break the bond. Use a 25 watt soldering iron with a blunt tapered point contacted to the head of the screw. Make sure that the screw isn't set into plastic as some of the cheaper consumer cameras and lens may have a plastic chassis, which you will melt the hole. this is not good, so make sure. <br> In regard to the Nikon camera bodies lens mount, the bottom screw in the 6:00 o'clock position is the indexing screw which has a shoulder just below the screws head. So when one is reassembling the 5 screw arrangement, insert the 6 o'clock screw first but do not tighten it yet. Then insert the other fives crews. Now tighten the screw in the 2 o'clock position first, then the screw in the 8 o'clock position, then the screw in the 4 o'clock position, then screw in the 10 o'clock position, then the screw in the 6 o'clock position. This will assure that you don't warp the the lens mount because it is made from brass that is then chrome plated.(The reason for brass is that it is thermally stable and it will bend first instead damage to the cameras chassis.) This is similar to how one tightens the lug nuts on a car's wheel.(Look at the owner's manual for your car on how to change a flat tire.)<br> I hope that this dissertation will help some one in the future. I learned these kind of thing from doing it wrong and being told by some more knowledge than me, or figuring it out myself. </p>

<p> Think your right with the after market batteries. The only one I would consider is Lenmar who actually has a warranty on their battery packs. They go for about $65.00(US) if one can find them. I'll try the Lenmar when I get one and report on its performance. I'm also considering rebuilding a battery pack with Sanyo or Gates cell's. I did that with a EN-4 pack for a D1X I own. Latter I converted another EN-4 pack to a battery tray to use two 3.6 volt 18650 Li-on cells. </p>

<p> Genius ! Thanx Frank. I said that the user manual had my head spinning.</p>

<p> I recently purchased a VERY used D2Hs and can't access the IMAGE SIZE function in the custom menu. It's highlighted in a lite blue color instead of white and scrolling will skip over it. Read the user manual, but if anyone has had to decipher a Nikon manual will agree that their written in a rather convoluted manner and not wanting to wait until Monday or so to get a response from Nikon can anyone please advise me as to what's what with it. <br> Also, I need a new EN-EL4 battery for it. Aside from a Nikon battery, does anyone offer a high quality aftermarket brand that is a little more reasonably priced, and a Type B II focus screen for it. This one has some Valles Marineris sized scratches in it. Can only guess at how that happened.<br> Bought it for $150.00(US) because I thought I messed up my D1X when I let it fall of a table. Turned out it was a registry error with my computer. Live and learn. Beside what good is owning a pro camera if you can't do dumb stuff with it. This D2Hs looks like it's been to Afghanistan then Iroc then tied to truck bumper and dragged home. But other then the IMAGE SIZE issue, it works great.<br> Thanx.</p>

<p> FM2 screens are interchangeable with the Nikon FE and only those two cameras. If you acquire one in the factory package with instructions, it will tell you what if any compensation to make. Also Nikon's website might still have an archive of older cameras and their associated instructions as a PDF. <br> The three screens available are,<br> Type K, #2420, Standard split w/fresnal.<br> Type B, #2421, No focus aid.<br> Type E, #2422, No focus aid w/grid.<br> This is as per the Nikon Full Line Product Guide #5, circa 1999.<br> Check keh.com, who buys and sell used cameras and equipment. And also westborncamera.com. I sold them two of those screens last year.</p>

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<p>Mervyn.<br> My collection is with Nikon lens. They hold more value to me than the bodies. Is use them all. AI, AIS, AF, (Not early AF)AF-D, and AF-S. The bodies get used up. There only good as a door stop when I get through with them. Since I got out film which ended with two F5's and a F100, I've been buying used Nikon D1X's And D2Xs's. I pick them up used for around a $100.00 and $400.00US respectively. The new bodies are just to expensive.<br> I do though have an extensive collection of Nikon catalogs and brochures dating back to the 70's. Sadly those days are no longer for as Nikon doesn't offer them any more. Downloading from there website just doesn't feel or look right. <br> Have fun with your collecting.</p>

<p> Is anyone other than me praising Nikon's omission of the pop up flash from the D500. They suck power from the cameras batteries and get broken off. Now if they only didn't put that flip out monitor on the cameras back side. Something else that will get broken off with ruff usage. I've been urging Nikon to come out with a compact but scalable pro DSLR for awhile now. Why won't Nikon make what the pros really need. Something F100 like. They also missed with the price, $2000.00US. They could had made it to sell for $1000.00US by omitting the top LCD info display. Put that data on the monitor's screen which is redundantly shown in the viewfinder. It doesn't need to capture video either. If you want video, break out the D3,4,or 5. There reacting like Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, and Hyundai. One comes out with a new style formula and everybody jumps in line and follows suit. Also build it more to be more durable were the flash mounts to camera's top side. The usage of Magnesium is just not the right metal to use. 60 0r 70 series Aluminum is much more suited for the application. I know this form having had My F100 and D1X break at the flash mount. I know I'm ranting, but come on. Listen to those who make living with things.</p>

<p> Sorry I was referring to the 200-500mm lens.</p>

<p> I didn't notice anyone comment on the issue that this lens is the new "E" series lens. It has a electronically actuated aperture that will not work with most older series Nikon camera bodies. I was considering this lens, but it will not stop down the lens aperture with my two D1X's and one D2Xs. So much for Nikon's now out of date matto "AN ABSENCES OF OBSOLESCENCE". Oh pooh.</p>

<p> The D1X's will only work with a 512MB card. There was from Nikon two upgrades that would allow the usage of 1MB CF cards and with the second upgrade to use 2MB CF cards. They no longer offer the said upgrades. This is one cause for the camera not work.<br> As for the the shutter not working can also be a fault with the battery. A worn out battery will show a full or partial charge on the LCD display, but it will not fire the shutter so as to act as a notification that the battery is run down if you're not paying attention and just shooting away. It also protects the camera's electronics. The camera has to stop the lens aperture down, then flip the mirror up, then open shutter curtain and charge the CCD, then send the capture to the buffer, then send that file to the CF card. So there's a lot of demand on the battery. You can go online and order a new battery pack. There's a lot of aftermarket batteries for D1, D1X, and D1H that sell for about $30.00US. They all take same battery pack. If you look around you might find new Nikon EN-4 packs if you're into collecting.<br> Also. When charging a new battery pack, you should do three charge refresh/discharge cycles with the charger before using the battery in the camera for the first time. This will help condition the battery pack. These battery packs use the older type Nickel Metal Hydride batteries. They will hold a charge longer and last longer.<br> I recently converted a EN-4 pack to a battery tray to hold two 18650 Lithium Ion batteries. Far superior charge density and cold weather operations. Plus there lighter by about 65%. I had to make a circuit to drop the batteries voltage to 7.2volts DC. I get about 1000 RAW and about 2500 Hi JPEG's image captures with photo chimping almost every image to check exposure and composition from a charged set. My D1X is in my car all the time to capture news events. <em><br /></em></p>

<p> I haven't had to repair a Nikon lens that needed new parts in a while. (Kind of unusual me for me. I'm rough on my equipment.) The last lens I broke about 1years ago. I call Nikon Parts and they send me the exploded view of the lens so I could order the replacement parts and do the repair myself. They have done this for me in the past, but you will have to call them and find out if they will still sell parts to the general public. I hope that they still do. It's reason why I use Nikon.<br> A list of some of Nikon's I've repaired myself over the years.<br> FM: Chassis and lens mount. (Fell from a helicopter. The camera not me.)<br> 50mm f/1.8 AIS: Focus helical and aperture assembly. (Fell from said helicopter.)<br> SB - 16: Hot shoe mount. (Beat some guy up with a FM w/ MD12 when he tried to steal it from me. He was bloody when I was done with him.)<br> FM2: Shutter button assembly. (Banged hard.)<br> 135mm f/3.5 AIS: Focus barrel. (Banged hard.)<br> 300mm f/4 AF: Focus drive, gear, and bearing. (Wore it out.)<br> F100: Body top and info glass and it's gasket. (Cracked hot shoe mount when I slipped on some ice with the body in a back pack.)<br> F5 #1: Bottom battery compartment. (Bent and cracked when I fell 40 feet out of a tree. The camera faired much better than I did from that.)<br> F5 #2: Ten pin socket and flexible circuit. (Ten pin socket spun and severed connection when removing a MC-30.)<br> F5 #1 and#2 and D1X: Rubber body cladding and the adhesive tape. (The rubber stretches and dries out.)<br> 24-85mmf4.5-4.5G AF-S: Internal screws. (Tree branch fell on me on a windy day and dropped F5 with said lens attached.)<br> 60mm f2.8 Micro AF-D: (Didn't break that one. Nikon sent me the exploded schematic so I could disassemble the lens to remove the lock button on the A-M ring for switching between the two position easier.)<br> 35mm f/1.8G AF-S: Aperture assembly. (Bought it used for $60.00US. The aperture blades were out of sync.)<br> SB80-DX: Flash tube. (Burnt out using Hi Speed Focal Plane mode to much I'm guessing.)</p>

<p>I might be chiming in a little late on this but, my Nikkor, Micro 60mm f/2.8 AF and Micro 105mm f/2.8 AF-D lenses. Every thing from Infinity to 1:1 is just stunningly sharp. Even the mundane images hold so much detail within them mounted on my older D1X. Then my D2X made me realize how really sharp these lens are. <br /> Recently I was allowed to use a D3X for a day. All I can say is WOW. I am legally blind in the right eye and, that camera with those lenses produced images that appeared almost three dimensional to me. <br /> The newer Nikkor,Micro lens might be a little bit sharper on paper but, I feel that the old Mark 1 eyeball is going to have hard to time telling the difference.<br /> One thing I have noticed over the years of watching and reading scientific type of TV programs and publications, that whenever a camera lens is adapted to some kind of scientific imaging device, it's usually one of those two lens. Gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.<br /> I would also like to add the Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S G lens. It probably a mistake for Nikon to discontinue this lens. It's one more sharpy.<br /> These lens produce images with excellent color, contrast and, resolution, and I can go out into the field with these three lens and have everything covered from ant's sharing my lunch to senics.<br /> The image I'm submitting was taken with a Nikon D1X, Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 AF, and a Nikon SB80-DX.<br /> ISO 125, RAW, 1/100s, f/18, TTL daylight balanced. 1:4.5</p><div></div>

<p> I might be chiming in a little late on this but, my Nikkor Micro 60mm f/2.8 AF and 105mm f/2.8 AF-D lenses. Every thing from Infinity to 1:1 is just stunningly sharp. Even the mundane images hold so much detail within them mounted on my older D1X. Then my D2X made me realize how really sharp these lens are. <br> Recently I was allowed to use a D3X for a day. All I can say is WOW. I am legally blind in the right eye and, that camera with those lenses produced images that appeared almost three dimensional to me. <br> The newer Micro lens might be a little bit sharper on paper but, I feel that the old Mark 1 eyeball is going to have hard to time telling the difference.<br> One thing I have noticed over the years of watching and reading scientific type of TV programs and publications, that whenever a camera lens is adapted to some kind imaging device, it's usually one of those two lens. Gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.<br> I would also like to add the Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S G lens. It probably a mistake for Nikon to discontinue this lens. It's one more sharpy.<br> These lens produce images with excellent color, contrast and, resolution, and I can go out into the field with these three lens and have everything covered from ant's sharing my lunch to senics.</p>

<p> I might be chiming in a little late on this but, my Nikkor Micro 60mm f/2.8 AF and 105mm f/2.8 AF-D lenses. Every thing from Infinity to 1:1 is just stunningly sharp. Even the mundane images hold so much detail within them mounted on my older D1X. Then my D2X made me realize how really sharp these lens are. <br> Recently I was allowed to use a D3X for a day. All I can say is WOW. I am legally blind in the right eye and, that camera with those lenses produced images that appeared almost three dimensional to me. <br> The newer Micro lens might be a little bit sharper on paper but, I feel that the old Mark 1 eyeball is going to have hard to time telling the difference.<br> One thing I have noticed over the years of watching and reading scientific type of TV programs and publications, that whenever a camera lens is adapted to some kind imaging device, it's usually one of those two lens. Gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.<br> I would also like to add the Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S G lens. It probably a mistake for Nikon to discontinue this lens. It's one more sharpy.<br> These lens produce images with excellent color, contrast and, resolution, and I can go out into the field with these three lens and have everything covered from ant's sharing my lunch to senics.</p>