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Keith S in Arizona USA

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Everything posted by Keith S in Arizona USA

  1. Each film frame will receive the same amount of exposure regardless of the camera speed. Only the speed at which the film is transported through the mechanism changes.
  2. Want to buy a Kodak Medalist II modified to take 120 film. Ken Ruth, the man who did this modification, is now retired, so I am unable to get a standard one modified for my use. Will pay a decent price for a well-maintained camera.
  3. Wow. The P30 sounds like the discontinued Kodak motion picture film Plus-X 5231, even the same ASA rating of 80. Film Photography Project has a limited amount of 5231 frozen-stored hand-rolled into 35mm 24 EXP until their quantity of 100 of them is gone. I would hope that the P30 is a good substitute.
  4. Yeh I asked that the other day and never got any response.
  5. Thanks fjaygoldsmith. Heh. I wish I had done that. By the way, I just now went to my account and "successfully" figured out how uploaded a photo, but do not know where it went! It says the upload was successful but it did not show up as my avatar, no clue where it is. Lost in the bowels of PN. Oh well. Off now to do other things today.
  6. "Ditto. I got one one sentence reply that did not answer my question, and then nothing since. What a farce" Well . . . . It "may" be that the site administrators are so overwhelmed right now that their inputs are way down the list. And perhaps other users do not have an answer either. Yes this new site has a rather high level of frustration. I had asked earlier about where the buy/sell area went. No answer for me either. The thing that upsets me is a year ago with the first site-update fiasco, I had paid my yearly user fee just days before that fiasco appeared. I asked for my funds back and was never refunded, but then they went back to the original setup. Then THIS YEAR they did the same exact thing again a few days after I sent the user fee. Had I known - - - I likely would have not re-upped this year. I have decided to give it a chance, but if too many things are still "inconvenient" by next year, no way will I ever pay another user fee. Done and done at that point.
  7. For the life of me, I cannot find the buy and sell area. Has this feature now been lost, or is it hidden off somewhere deep within some menu structure? I have a WTB ad and would like to repost it should that be needed when it next expires.
  8. A real pain in the "No Words" section, for example, where we used to be able to quickly scroll through photo postings. NOW we have to click on a little thumbnail, each one, one at a time. What an annoyance and a waste of time with this additional effort that has now been imposed upon us. Or . . . . was I merely spoiled before? I just never did like inefficiency. :-(
  9. Why was there another effort accomplished to "fix" something that was not "broken"?
  10. <p>Rick, one thing I always look forward to at this site is seeing and reading about the various cameras you obtain. Thanks for your contributions !!</p>
  11. <p>What Paul said. I'll bet you were not using an actual Canon flash, such as as the 199A, 155, etc.</p>
  12. <p>Jon, you do have an issue in there, likely a mask that has become loose. Your photo shows this, and your camera should not do that. Mine does not have the issue yours does.</p> <p>Best bet, if you really like the camera, is to knuckle under and get it serviced. Canon’s of this vintage “almost always” are in need of new rear door dust seals and a new mirror foam ‘bounce’ cushion. They deteriorate, fall apart, let gunk into the camera, and also can leave a gooey adhesive on the mirror which is a real pain for service personnel.</p> <p>You did not mention your city. If you are in the United States, there are two really great people to service the old Canon F series. I have used both. Repairs were exemplary, and costs reasonable.</p> <p>Ken Oikawa<br> 28288 West Worcester Road<br> Sun City, California, 92586<br> 951-246-9136<br> Ken prefers items to be sent via USPS, NOT UPS nor FEDEX.<br> He does not do PayPal and will call and request a personal check after he evaluates your repair. This is usually the same day he receives your item.<br> Turnaround time for many Canon A, EF, F and FD items (~ the 10 or so) he has done for me has averaged about one week each.</p> <p>He is also a good friend of Steve at Camera Clinic in North Dakota, and on occasion, Ken says they will ‘trade’ certain work issues, if required, to expedite repairs / parts issues.</p> <p>Steve Sweringen at:<br> Camera Clinic<br> 406 13th Ave NW<br /> Mandan, ND 58554<br /> Phone: 775-829-2244</p> <p>Hope this helps!</p>
  13. <p>I am not familiar with that 600mm lens - - - - but - - - - in all the excitement of setting up, don't forget to check your INFINITY focus as many long lenses focus beyond infinity.</p> <p>That messed me up in the late 70's when I photo'd an eclipse. Taught me a valuable lesson about lenses. I would hate to see this happen to anyone else . . .</p> <p>Hopefully all you others out there are experienced and not as inattentive as I was.</p>
  14. <p>Ooops. Did not finish editing and got locked out, so here is a re-submission:</p> <p>Hey Fabio</p> <p>You 'MAY' --- or my not -- have a broken blade and you can read about that here at the David Odess website.</p> <p>My 80mm lens does look the exact same as yours, and my 80mm lens was serviced by David just a short while back. There is just the very slightest of 'lift' on my blade.</p> <p>It does look to me as though you 'do not currently' have any real issue. However you might keep your eye on it over time.</p> <p>http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html</p> <p>He is also THE GUY you want to have repair any issues . . . factory trained, experienced, etc.</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p>
  15. <p>Hey Fabio</p> <p>You 'MAY' have a broken blade and you can read about that here at the David Odess website.</p> <p>http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html</p> <p>He is also THE GUY you want ot have repair this . . . factory trained, experienced, etc.</p>
  16. <p>Possibly the different backing materials you use may be leaching various chemicals into the mix and causing unpredictable outcomes? It seems the paper may be the one variable.</p>
  17. <p><strong>Everything Robin said.</strong></p> <p>Two more ideas to test:</p> <p>The first item is to inspect your film drive sprocket teeth to see if any have broken off or are chipped. Although I have never seen or heard of this, anything is possible.</p> <p>The second item: When you load your next roll, make certain that the film drive teeth on the winding spool are fully engaged into the film sprocket holes. A way to reduce issues here is when loading, rewind the film backwards a bit into the film cartridge to make the film sit "tight" to the film rails of the camera. This will prevent the film from "buckling" and lifting off the sprocket teeth (or shifting off just a little bit) when the camera back is closed. I have been burned a few times by this and I might make note here that I have been shooting film for MANY DECADES.</p> <p>After you carefully load your next roll, see if your same issue of "slippage" occurs again.</p>
  18. <p>Canon FD is a great choice. 'A' series' cameras are are commonly available at on-line auctions, as are FD lenses. 'A' series' cameras: A-1, AE-1, AE-1P (P= PROGRAM), AV-1. Other great cameras using FD lenses are the EF, 'F' series, FTb, and others.</p> <p>A reason to go Canon FD is that the FD lenses were as a general rule always superb, some of the best. And today there is a glut of them available for low cost. I have been able to vastly increase my collection of these cameras and lenses due to today's low costs. Another thing - the FD lenses I buy today never seem to have any issues with internal fog/haze, and the focus helicoids never seem to be badly "gummed up" like they can be with other manufacturer lenses.</p> <p>Any older Canon camera you get will likely need to have its deteriorated back-side dust seals replaced; they get gummy and self-destruct. (Also the mirror bounce cushion.) This is a cheap and simple repair; most anyone can do this him/herself.</p> <p>The Canon flashes (155, 199A) that I have purchased have also always worked just fine, even now being over 35 years old. There is a LOT of reason to consider the Canon FD-era items, beyond what I have stated here.</p> <p>Hope this response has added valuable information for you . . .</p>
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