Keith S in Arizona USA

<p>Ken Oikawa<br> 28288 West Worcester Road<br> Sun City, California, 92586<br> 951-246-9136<br> Ken prefers items to be sent via USPS, NOT UPS nor FEDEX.<br> He does not do PayPal and will call and request a personal check after he evaluates your repair. This is usually the same day he receives your item.<br> Turnaround time for many Canon A, EF, F and FD items (~ the 10 or so) he has done for me has averaged about one week each. He is also a good friend of Steve at Camera Clinic in Sparks, Nevada, and on occasion, Ken says they will ‘trade’ certain work issues, if required, to expedite repairs.</p>

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<p>Again, Don, do not put a high dollar value on the customs form. In some cases where there are import fees, the recipient has to pay more for higher "valued" items.</p> <p>I am assuming the previous post was perhaps to identify the "actual value" of the camera?</p>

<p>You should, without doubt, have your camera serviced by Chris Sherlock in NZ.</p> <p>Here is his website: http://retinarescue.com/</p> <p>He has recently serviced for me a Retina IIIc, a Retina IIa, and a Signet 35. EXTREMELY reasonable prices, and Chris is a factory trained Kodak technician.</p> <p>Exemplary work, and the turnaround time for me from sending to receiving back has been about a month. I had no issues between the US and NZ (and back again) with any package damages.</p> <p>Also -- mark your customs form as "merchandise" and list a low value, such as $25 or so, plus list as "broken camera for repair." I was told at my local (US) Post Office that these three items assist in customs expediencies.</p> <p>By the way -- your photos are really great !!</p>

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<blockquote> <p>Canon, for some reason, discourages using FD lenses in stop down mode. I've used them that way and it seems to work fine though.</p> </blockquote> <p>The EF is by far my favorite Canon camera, bar none.</p> <p>The manual for the Canon A-1 states that the stopped-down mode is used for non-FD lenses, such as the earlier FL and R lines. This mode is also useful for low-light metering when doing macro/micro photography.</p> <p>The reason Canon discourages stopped down mode is that "If you return the lens aperture to "A" but leave the stopped-down lever on the camera pushed in (A-series' cameras), . . . . . . . this severely strains the camera mechanisms."</p> <p>So not exactly applicable to the EF or other models.</p>

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<p>Ken is still in business. His typical turnaround time for me has been around 7 days.</p> <p>Ken Oikawa<br> 28288 West Worcester Road<br> Sun City, CA, 92586<br> 951-246-9136<br> <strong> </strong><br> Ken prefers items to be sent via USPS, NOT UPS or FEDEX.<br> He does not do PayPal or credit cards.</p> <p><br />After evaluation (usually the same day he receives it), he will phone you with a cost.</p> <p><br /><br /></p>

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<p>Check out your local eBay or other suction sites for bulbs. I have purchased tons of them, different types, for extremely reasonable costs.</p> <p>Do keep in mind that it is not uncommon to have an occasional "dud" bulb once in a while, depending on age and other factors.</p>

<blockquote> <p>So these days, I read new photo gear announcements daily, then go out and shoot with what I have, trying to improve my technique, and come home usually satisfied with my "older" stuff.</p> </blockquote> <p>Well I for one have become totally disinterested in the annoying "camera of the month announcement" routine, and like Stephen am quite happy working with my old Canon, Nikon and Leica film items, plus the (very) occasional digital usage of a D300s and D700.</p>

<p>I would like to add that besides the fact your AE-1 camera has sentimental value, this model is quite tough and resilient, beyond what most would expect from an "entry level non-professional camera".</p> <p>I have three of these, one going back to the original one I got in 1978. All three have been CLA'd within the past few years, and they all should be good for at least another decade before requiring any further attention such as another round of lube or light seals.</p> <p>In my opinion, money well spent for the life and usefulness received. And of course, film is NOT going away any time in (probably) our life times.</p> <p>If needed (and I do highly suggest), you can obtain an original AE-1 manual for it off eBay, or download one from the Butkus site. He does ask for a $5 "donation" so he can keep adding more items to his site.</p>

<p>You may as well get it repaired; it has shutter capping issues. And very likely any camera you buy off an auction site is also going to need repairs of some sort (perhaps even worse), including replacing the rear door seals which is a given on any old Canon of this era. Seal replacement is cheap.</p> <p>Ken has done quite a few Canon cameras for me. Nine as a matter of fact! He is a top notch retired Canon Japan factory-trained tech and his work is exemplary and the costs are REASONABLE.</p> <p>Give him a call.</p> <p>Ken Oikawa<br> 28288 West Worcester Road<br> Sun City, CA, 92586<br> 951-246-9136<br> <strong> </strong><br> Ken prefers items be sent via USPS, not UPS or FEDEX.</p> <p>He does not do PayPal and will call you after evaluation with a personal check request amount.<strong><br /></strong></p> <p>His typical turnaround time for me has been about a week.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Someone will chime in and disagree with everything I post no matter what I post.</p> </blockquote> <p>Doesn't that make you crazy? I hate when that happens.</p> <p>YES to everything Russ says. I have a 503CX and love it; it has just about the most "features" of the line, but I don't really use the TTL Off-the-film flash feature much at all.</p> <p>As Russ says, a CM is a good choice.</p> <p>David Odess has serviced my camera and film backs, and he is a factory-trained Hassy tech. His work is outstanding and I highly recommend him for any service needed.</p>

<p>Personally, I am not a big fan of compressed air. In the past I have found that it actually sprays out some solvent(?) or some sort of 'carrier'(?) or such that leaves spots. Who knows what that spotting might do long term to a lens coating, or how it might add new issues to, or alter, lubricants that are present.</p> <p>I did spot up an old lens once with this stuff and regretted having used it. How various manufacturers may have different materials in these cans -- well, still a risk.</p> <p>(Also - the pressure 'may' be damaging in the case where it might be used in the presence of, let's say, a different camera such as a 35mm where a cloth focal plane shutter may be implemented.)</p> <p>You are better off getting proper service for your Pentax 645 rather than risk adding more issues. Just My Humble Opinion from past experience.</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1562370">Stephen Lewis</a> <a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub10plus.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Sep 04, 2016; 05:54 p.m.</p> <p>My subscription ended in July, and I'm still debating renewing...Probably will take a few weeks while things sort themselves out.<br /> Steve</p> <p>Yes, exactly, Steve. I had JUST re-upped myself, and I was so angry with the -ahem- "mess" - that I emailed and asked to have my account closed and refund of subscription fee. There was NOTHING wrong with this user-friendly site that required a so-called upgrade. I hope they leave it the heck alone from now on. It is efficient to use as is. In fact it is one of my favorite sites due to its "friendliness" of both its USABILITY and its USERS. I would hate for all this to be ruined.</p>

<p>Which particular lens model needs attention? What sort of repair is needed? A new indicator ball reset on the lens? Clean and relube of the helical? Or does it need a really major internal repair? How valuable to you is the lens (monetarily, or otherwise)?</p> <p>Those sorts of questions will dictate your direction.</p> <p>Let me just say up front that your question is likely to invite a number of opposing responses.</p> <p>Over the years I have used DAG for various items. I have also employed the services of Sherry Krauter and Gus Lazzari. These factory trained experts are always overbooked, and for VERY good reason.</p> <p>I have never used Youxin for any service.</p>

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<p>Hasselblad 'V' series are all good. In particular, I do like my 503CX with its OTF (Off-The-Film) flash feature, although I rarely use the flash. The 503 series has just about the 'most' features of the 'V' series. Models that came out after that began to delete some of the features. Personally I would call the 503CX the 'epitome' of the 'V' series, but again, that is just my own personal opinion. But no biggie; it's all good regardless of the 500 series'.<br> The older C lenses are somewhat dated, and "occasionally" can have a cracked aperture blade, which may not even be known unless the lens is overhauled. Parts supplies for the older C lenses are diminishing.<br> I just had my 503CX, magazines and 80mm f2.8 Zeiss Planar T* lens overhauled for decades more use (I hope to live that long!)<br> I also use the D-40 flash with 45071 flash bracket. And the 503CX has a 'Flash Test Plate' that goes on the back of the camera to make a test flash shot. If everything is OK as far as exposure, the camera indicates so with a light. The test plate has an area on it that simulates a typical reflection from film for the OTF circuit. The test plate is a nice feature to determine proper exposure so you do not waste film. After a successful test shot is indicated, merely replace the plate with your film magazine and SHOOT.<br> Yes, I would stay away from the 1000 & 1600. {Paperweights} (oh, here come the arguments!) There were a lot of mechanical failure issues due to poor engineering. Hasselblad did better engineering after that and earned their reputation for high quality.<br> Of the other items you mention, I have no experience with any of that.<br> Hope this adds some good information for you, Kerkko !</p>

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<p>Greetings Phillip.</p> <p>Are you certain that the camera is actually fully wound? You CAN wind the camera about HALFWAY -- just enough to align the screw as you show in your photo, BUT it will not actually be fully wound. Further winding will continue to rotate the screw to once again align properly.</p> <p>If this is not the issue, I sure don't know what the issue could be. Hopefully others will post about this.</p>

<p>My story of the Action Case A is one of embarrassment. A few months back I posted a photo and inquiry, as I had one and did not know what it fit. It came free with an old F-1 I had purchased, and the seller had no use for it and did not know what it was for.<br> A responder indicated it was for the A series with an attached power winder. The clues were right in front of me all along, I just never put 2 and 2 together. I have a few A series cameras and Power Winder 'A's' but did not know about cases to fit the combination.<br> Yes this is a nicely made case and I too have not seen one on ebay, having checked occasionally just out of curiosity.</p>

<p>Glen, have you checked out "film photography project . com" ? (the site name is all one word, by the way.)<br> (Don't know if I should post a direct link to it)<br> There is a LOT of outdated film experimentation that goes on there. It is a very interesting place.</p>