Keith S in Arizona USA

<p>Congratulations on the A-1, Jose. This is a very fine camera, and over the years the three I have have proven to be VERY DURABLE and required no service except for the usual replacing of deteriorated back door seals, and a one-time lube for all three cameras to cure the 'Canon Mirror Squeal.'</p> <p>The A-1 was the camera purchased after my AE-1 that REALLY got me much more interested in film photography. Its nice design allows for very quick and easy selections among the multiple modes. This was a real boon for learning quickly the various aspects of depth of field, motion-freeze, lengthy manual exposures, etc. I really like the easy-to-use top-mounted mode switching.</p> <p>Butkus's site is great for getting a downloadable manual, and you can also get an original manual from ebay for a very reasonable price.</p> <p>Have fun learning how to use this camera's modes. Experimenting with it should teach you very much in short order.</p> <p>HAVE FUN !!! !!! :-)</p>

<p>Clark, you should email your request to David Odess of Randolph, Massachusetts. He is a very highly regarded Hassleblad factory-trained technician. His email is hblad1@comcast.net and his phone is 781-963-1166. He also has a website. Type a search for "David Odess" to find it. There are many FAQ's also posted at his site.</p> <p>David just overhauled my 503CX, 4 A12 magazines, and my 80mm f2 Zeiss Planar T* lens.</p> <p>Prices were quite reasonable and the turnaround time was about 6 weeks. Any work he cannot do (which is not much,) he will refer you to the Hasselblad Service Center in New Jersey.</p> <p>David is also very happy to answer your questions regarding service, parts and repair. You can email or phone for your needed information.</p> <p>One of his FAQ's actually addresses the issues of the rubber washers in the 500 series cameras, so you should go to his site and read up on that easily-fixed problem. YES - parts are commonly available for the Hasselblads.</p>

<p>The Nikon 35mm F6 also has 100% viewfinder coverage.<br> I put a small reminder note on the back of mine.<br> What Craig said. That 100% issue can be very annoying.</p>

<p><strong>OOOPS! MY BAD!!! :-(</strong><strong><br /></strong><br /> <br /> . . . . . so embarrassed . . . .<br /> <br /> <strong><br /></strong>I had gotten onto a wrong battery table, not the batteries we are talking about. WAY different total current ratings from the 6V. YES from what you came up with the 6V is a stack of smaller cells, and <strong>YES the <strong>smaller cells that we are referencing DO have the same ratings as the </strong>PX28 battery series.</strong></p> <p>Anyway, all I can say is that the beeping issues where you are getting a slow-to-no beep don't seem all that concerning to me. The camera should function just fine as long as the shutter operates. With my 60% battery placed into my AE-1P, the beeps are SLOW but not continuous, and do not stop. A cessation of the beeps WOULD normally indicate a much weaker or near dead battery. However, I cannot comment or assist any further as I have no experience with weaker or near-dead batteries. In the past I have used my AE-1P's until they stopped working, and then replaced the battery.</p> <p>By the way, constantly checking the battery is <strong>not</strong> a good thing as it eats power to operate the LED or beeper, depending on a camera model (AE-1 LED, AE-1P Beeper.)</p> <p>My habit is to check a battery when I install a new one, and then I completely ignore it until the next photo trip, or wait for it to die. As I always carry a spare, there are no worries if the old battery suddenly dies during a shoot.</p> <p>Having never checked a battery just before it died, I have no experience as to what the beeping length may have been exhibiting at that point.</p> <p>Just keep using the camera and stick in a new battery when the old one dies. As stated earlier, if the camera battery has enough oomph to operate the shutter, your exposure will be OK. At some point the camera stops operating, but the previous exposure will be good.</p> <p>Again, apologies for the wrong battery information.</p>

<p>Okay. Once again about batteries for the AE-1.</p> <p>Max, you really need to get the proper batteries for your camera. 357's (and LR44's too) do not make sense. As to the 357's, they have an output of 150 mAh. The LR44's are not much different. The 6V PX28A (Alkaline) and PX28L (Lithium) put out far greater current. A stack of small 357's or LR44's is not going to supply the higher pulses of current the camera needs for some of its operations. You are creating issues by attempting to use improper batteries.</p> <p>If you need to, send away wherever you need to, to buy a few of the correct PX28A or PX28L batteries. Correct battery types will solve the slow or no beeping issues. You are only going to continue having issues with the incorrect batteries.</p> <p>I ran a test today with my two AE-1P's. With the PX28A and PX28L (new batteries,) both cameras beeped rapidly upon battery check. Having a PX28A (Alkaline) that measures 60% on my ZTS-MBT-1 battery tester, the beeps of both cameras were slower, but never continuous. "PERHAPS" a weaker battery "MIGHT" give a continuous beep? I do not know.</p> <p>And as to the store checking your batteries with a "voltmeter," this CAN be a misleading effort. Non-fresh batteries can measure at or near full voltage, BUT the voltage can drop severely with a small load applied. Unless you can connect the voltmeter WHILE the battery is in the camera and being used, you do not know for sure that the battery is at or near full capacity when using a simple voltmeter. You need to be using a "load tester" type of battery checker.</p> <p>I highly recommend that everyone buy a ZTS-MBT-1 Pulse Load Battery Tester via B&H Photo in New York City, (or ADORAMA?) This tester gives a TRUE reading of actual battery capacity in the battery. The tester measures dozens of types of photo, and other, batteries. It measures batteries under specific loads, and indicates the "life" left in the battery.</p> <p>This problem is really one of wrong batteries, and is easily solved.</p>

<p>I have never heard of a really lengthy beep as you describe. This concerns me a bit.</p> <p>Try leaving your camera switched ON (Power Lever in the ON position) WITH A FRESH NEW BATTERY! and leave the camera sitting in that mode for several days to see if the battery runs down. You should be able to leave the camera like that virtually for a year or more as the current draw is so tiny. If the battery runs down in a few days or so, you definitely have an electrical issue with the camera.</p> <p>It can sit powered up "virtually forever" (well not really, but for all practical purposes) and not run the battery down --- as long as nothing is half-way pressing the shutter release button.</p> <p>Keep us apprised so we can continue to offer any further assistance.</p>

<p>Either the Silver Oxide or an Alkaline is just fine for normal use. Either will last quite a long time. Your three beeps per second should be ignored. You have plenty of shots left. Too many to worry about at the three beeps point.</p> <p>In my experience with the AE-1PROGRAM (and AE-1 too,) these cameras will operate properly right up to the point the battery cannot supply enough oomph to operate the shutter. So no worries about poor exposures due to a declining Alkaline battery. Just keep going with the photography until the battery totally dies.</p> <p>By the way, for readers who may not know, the Silver Oxide battery will die suddenly when it becomes depleted, whereas the Alkaline will slowly decline in power until its inability to operate the camera. Exposures will not be affected by <strong>either</strong> battery type as they decline in power.</p> <p>Thirty years ago I learned a very valuable lesson about carrying spare batteries when a battery died on me suddenly and I had no spare. Sunday, no stores open in the area. Grrr. I had been certain that my AE-1's battery had plenty of life left in it.</p>

<p>Previous postings from 2001:<br> <a href="/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=001HeX">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=001HeX</a></p> <p>I am responding to this old post listed above from 2001 that I found while searching for “cold storage information of photo batteries.” I was/am trying to determine the effects of cold storage.</p> <p>In 2007, I stored the following types in a fridge where they are consistently maintained at about 35 to 38 degrees F ( 1.6 to 3.3 C.): CR123, 303/357, 301/386, PX28A, PX28L, PX-1, 412 type EXCELL 22.5V, DL 1/3N, and 625A. These batteries are mixes of Alkaline, Silver Oxide, and Lithium. No Carbon-Zinc, no NiCads.</p> <p>While transferring them today to new plastic, sealed storage bins, (I formerly used sealed canning type jars,) examination showed that<strong> four</strong> of the <strong>twenty-five</strong> 625A (‘A’ for Alkaline) exhibited seepage/corrosion. The remainder of the 625A's and other battery types looked fine. Every one of the 625A’s is from 2007.</p> <p>I had chosen not to freeze my batteries, fearing swelling damage due to frozen/expanded electrolytes.</p> <p>The consensus in the previous postings is that refrigeration may actually be a moot point.</p> <p>So I was wondering after all these years having passed, does anyone have more updated information regarding the subject of cold storage for batteries?</p>

<p>Today I received an email from our local [Arizona, USA] Tempe Camera that "on or around June 15th, 2016, we are discontinuing the processing of E6 (Transparency) film."</p> <p>Some reasons they cited are how the advance of digital has caused a continuing reduction of E6 films being sent for processing, the age of their machinery and lack of support/abandonment of the machinery by the manufacturer, parts and maintenance issues, problems with maintaining chemicals, slide boxes becoming unavailable, and/or inability to obtain various other items. Another issue is that certain things that are still available are required to be purchased in unacceptably large quantities (with incurred higher expenses.)</p> <p>They are continuing with processing of all other types of film. 120/220, 35mm, Sheet films, Color and B&W processes (including the C-41 process of course,) etc. Pretty much business as usual sans any E6 process.</p>

<p>John -- Thank you so much for this important reference. Checking my cold-stored stock shows all three of my 120 T-MAX 100's have emulsion number 0971, with the exp. date 06/2017.</p> <p>Sending off an email tomorrow to see about replacements.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Chris Sherlock of retinarescue.com in New Zealand, reports that the II<strong>a</strong> cocking rack failure issue is not a fact but a myth, BUT that the II<strong>c</strong> (and some other models) can indeed suffer this problem.</p> <p>For those who do not know of him, Chris is a factory-trained and renowned Retina technician.</p> <p>At his site, go to his COLLECTION page and you will find pertinent information posted with the IIa, and other, sections.</p> <p>Also look under "Repair Help" / "Common Retina Problems"</p>

<p>If you want to keep it and use it, Ken Oikawa's repair service is fast and good -- and very reasonable. He repairs Canon SLR's of that era. A Canon-Japan factory trained technician. He has done at least 9 various Canon's for me. CLA's and various other repairs.</p> <p>These AE-1's have proven to be quite durable (and they were never meant to be "Pro" cameras either, so the engineering has proven to be good.)</p> <p>Another one off eBay is likely to need service anyway, so perhaps have serviced what you already own and know of its history?</p> <p>You can call Ken at 951-246-9136. He is in Sun City, California. I am assuming you are in the USA</p>

<p>Thank you very much for your time and input, Curt.</p> <p>I am going to check out that site and RRS right now. Off-tripod stability may not be the big issue I have made it out to be, since I mostly strap-carry anyway.</p>

<p>Ellis, thank you for your input. Yes, the basic tripod attachment plate. eBay also shows quite a few that look alike but have different part numbers. 45128, 45123, etc. Confusing!</p> <p>Jose, thank you for your inputs too. I have looked at a few of those, such as the Arca, but was unable to determine anything about them as far as users' satisfaction with them. I have actually been toying with the idea of the Arca, which does look very reasonably priced and is commonly available.</p> <p>Still - I would like the original Hassy part - if I knew the part number and one was available at reasonable cost. That may change if this search becomes too difficult.</p>

<p>Hey all.</p> <p>I am looking for a quick release plate for my 1994 Hasselblad 503CX. A search here at Photo.net indicates that part number 45144 is the item I want. However, eBay has high prices for very few these.</p> <p>Can anyone tell me if the 45144 is the actual correct item for a 503CX? Does anyone recommend another brand that is commonly available?</p> <p>Keep in mind that I would like to not have a smaller plate attached to the camera as I do not want the camera to be "tilty" if I set it down somewhere.</p> <p>Thanks in advance for any responses!</p>

<p>Well, mystery solved.</p> <p>Just by accident, doing a search for a camera case, I ran across a listing for another brand of case that looks identical to the one about which I have queried, and it had "the parts" it contains shown for sale with it.</p> <p>It is a Lens Hood case, and the smaller compartment is to store a lens cap / filter.</p> <p>Now it all seems very obvious.</p>

<p>Ian, you do not have a problem at all.</p> <p>If you were to make a photo of the card, lighted as you described, using each lens, your three photo's would come out looking the same (the same brightness level.)</p> <p>The reason your camera creates different readings, shown as the f-stop/ timing variation, is that when you go from a 1.2 lens to a 2.8, the 2.8 has LESS light going through it (due to the smaller aperture opening.) Therefore the metering system will adjust accordingly. The same goes for going from the 2.8 lens to the f8 lens -- even less light transmission, therefore ANOTHER metering change occurs with the camera's metering system.</p> <p>When you put your A-1 back into service, you will see that all of your photo's will be fine and properly exposed.</p> <p>BTW - A-1 = good camera. I like them so much that I have 3, just so I will always be assured of having one. Gotta love the Canon FD system. Great cameras of that period, and absolutely excellent lenses.</p> <p>My A-1s' exposures have always been dead on and I have never had exposures be"off" at all, even with small-latitude transparency films.</p>

<p>Thanks Colin !!!</p>

<p>Alex the lens should unscrew.</p> <p>As to the lens itself, once it is off, shine a flashlight through from both sides, tilting the light and lens around to various angles. (I find that a yellowish light from a weak-battery bulb type flashlight is much easier on the eyes than a bright LED light.)</p> <p>What you want to do here is to be able to see any 'scratching' on the front and rear lens elements. Some older lenses had glass that was E-X-T-R-E-M-E-L-Y soft and most all of those (50mm collapsibles as an example) will exhibit a rather 'sandpapered' looking surface that is not readily apparent under casual viewing. "IF" your lens exhibits this condition, (often referred to by sellers as "cleaning marks,") you will certainly need to describe that in your listing, to let buyers decide just how much it is worth to them. A "slightly" compromised lens can still be usable and marketable.</p> <p>A lens can have issues with front glass surface conditions that has little image impact, depending on severity.</p>

<p>Hey Glen.</p> <p>When I go to make a response with the "RESPONSE:" box, there is one button (a picture of a tree) on its toolbar for "Insert/Edit Image" and inside that box is only one choice offered: "Image URL."</p> <p>So is there somewhere else to go, or what do I do from there? I had tried to contact an administrator a year or so back but apparently never got there? No feedback received. An actual "PHOTO" site such as this, should, if anything, offer a simple upload from a .jpg file. Very perplexing why this choice is not available. Over at another very popular site (RFF) it is a breeze to upload a .jpg.</p> <p>Also a thumbnail posting is, of course, not going to be acceptable either.</p>

<p><strong>Hey, thank you very much for the responses, guys.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Ed, your photo is exactly what I have. I was too dumb to think about trying my Power Winder A on a camera to check. That just never dawned on me. A perfect fit, just remove the action grip from the camera. The notch on the case side matches up to the winder ON-OFF switch and the rivet with hole is to view the winder LED status.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Great protection for my collection of A-1’s, AE-1’s and AE-1P’s.</strong></p>

<p><strong>Hi All.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>A posting for a second case for whose use I do not know.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>This one is marked ‘Canon,’ is 3-1/4” X 3-1/4” X 2”. It has a 5-1/2” flap that wraps around the case and on one of the flat side are slotted segments for a 3/8” strap. The interior has a black flocked ledge ’separator’ that leaves enough space on one side to accommodate something as thick as a lens cap or filter. The wider open area that is left is about 1-1/4” wide. There is no part number on the case, just ‘Canon’ and ‘Made In Japan.’</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>I do not have any way to link to a URL so am unable to post a photo. That really creates an issue for me describing it in words.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Does anyone know the application for this case? I would gladly give it to anyone who has the need for it.</strong></p>

<p><strong>Hi All.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>An auction purchase of a Canon F-1 brought a freebie case that is for an unknown model. It is an “Eveready” type design where the top flips back and is retained to the lower base piece by a stud that slides in a socket on the base piece. The flip-back top is labeled Canon on the front and “seems” to fit properly as part of the case system. I cannot guarantee that this entire assembly IS for a Canon model, though.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>I do not have any way to link to a URL so am unable to post a photo. That really creates an issue for me describing it in words. “A photo is worth a thousand words.” Yeah, if only.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>The base part that holds the camera body is unmarked, is very heavy stiff black leather, and hinged on the bottom to tilt the back of that piece out 90 degrees. Its interior surfaces are very nicely flocked. The camera is retained to the front part by the bottom ledge that contains the 1/4" thumbscrew, as many cases have. The hinge on the bottom is a nice metal piano-type hinge with 8 total rivets on one side of the camera retention 1/4" screw and 4 rivets on the other. The tilt-out halves are retained together by two snap-straps on the upper parts of the case, near where the camera strap lugs would be placed. Just below where the lens would protrude is a formed ‘bulge’ in the case that “might” be for where a winder/motor attachment screw may protrude? (This bulge seems to be an impressed area that was manufactured that way, not caused by other means.) And perhaps the most identifying feature of this case: On the rear right side, about one inch in from the side, is a rivet with a 3/16” hole in it that sits in an angled section of the case. That angles area is bulged out from the case and seems to be for a winder or such attachment for the camera. The rivet with a hole indicates to me a port access for a battery supply or charger for the camera or for its winder/motor drive?</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Wow this is such a pain, not being able to post a nice large photo of it. I hope my description is helpful to assist with having someone identify what this case would fit. It does not fit my any of my Canon F-1 series, A-1, AE-1, AE-1P, or EF model.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Does anyone know the application for this case? I would gladly give it to anyone who has the camera system for it.</strong></p>

<div></div>