thomas_goehler

and be sure to only use it when the lens is NOT in the A position!!!!

Use one of the various Canon EOS M models plus a cheap adaptor for 10 bucks and you will be happy.

You might want to check Foto Hügle in Dessau.

Canon AE-1 (black), FD 1.8/50mm SC (Chrome nose), Arista EDU 200

I have been using my FD lenses very successfully on EOS M bodies with a cheap China-made adaptor. I guess, there will be soon adaptors like this for EOS R too.

sorry, wrong thread

Image quality is defined by the lenses, not by the bodies. So if you want more or better quality, you must invest in lenses.

Don't forget that due to the crop factor of 1.6x a 35mm lens will perform like a 56mm on an APS-C system such as the wonderful M5. if you want the same angle like the 35mm shows you on FF, I'd recommend the EF-M 2/22mm. In case, you knew all this, just disregard my posting.

Of course they did, see the reply just above yours. The EF 2/35mm IS USM is the latest version, replacing the old one from the late 80s/early 90s. It is a truly great lens with a stellar performance and very fast AF.

Why not get an EOS M body? The M10 is very cheap at the moment. The FD to EF-M adapter sells for around 15 bucks on ebay and then you can use all your FD glass without any problems. The attached photo was shot with an EOS M plus the FD 2.8/135mm.

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/364/32212410406_6d733a5fb1_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="649" /></p>

<p>The Exa 1C wasn't manufactured in the 1970s, but from 1985-87 and it was the last Exa to be built. And my one has a lever for film transport.</p>

<p>Can you check whether the aperture-check lever is engaged? It's the lever to the left of the lens if you have got the cam in your hand with the lens pointing away from you. It should not pe pushed towards the lens.</p>

<p>If it was an L lens, it'd say "L" on the front ring. It's as simple as that.<br> I own the nFD 1,2/50mm without the L and I'm pretty happy with it. I find it a little better than the 1.4 vesrion I had before, but perhaps that difference is rather academic.</p>

<p>Actually, removing the mirror foam particles is no big deal. Take a Q-tip, soak it with alcohol from the dugstore and gently swipe across the remnants of the mirror foam. Make sure that nothing falls onto the focusing screen should you hold the camera upside down. Replacing the mirror bumper with new material might be a bit trickier, but perhaps you have somebody to help you so that you do not have to pay a lot for something that actually takes about 10 minutes with material worth less than 5 bucks.</p>

<p>Yeah, I too love the black versions:</p> <p><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/4/3655/5795918773_f137c451ca_z.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Check the generic hoods, e.g. at enjoyyourcamera.com. I found a generic replacement there which works absolutely fine on my FD 3,5/35-105</p>

<p>It is even better than what Keith wrote, since the Canon AE-1 program does not use ANY electricity unless you touch the shutter release. This is why those cams can sit for years without losing power. I have had my one for 30 years now and I can't recall changing the battery more than 3 times.</p> <p>Could it be that you SEEm to hear one beep which is actually a rapid succession of single beeps?</p>

<p>Three beeps a second ist still ok. No need to worry</p>

<p>Problem with EF is, that there are not many well-working items on the market anymore. Although having a mechanical shutter, there are some electronics in that camera which might just have gone down the drain over the last 45 or so years. I had to look real hard some years ago to find an EF that was still working properly. Being all mechanic the FTb might therefore be the better choice, as you won't find spare parts for the EF any longer (I tried a well-known repair shop and was told so).</p>

<p>Clean the contacts!</p>

<p>I wouldn't bid on it. Even if it was any good, which I doubt, the price is much too high for such a lens. These are the things that you normally get for 5-10 bucks from the grab box!</p>

<p>FD lenses are not meant to be stopped down without being mounted to a camera. This is very much unlike Nikon or Minolta lenses and has to do with Canon using Tv as their main "program" on most FD bodies.<br> Attach your lens to your Canon FD cam, open the back, set the cam to B, fire the shutter and then change all the apertures.<br> That being said and having a lokk at your second problem, concerning image quality, it must be stated that a Sears lens is most likely to be one of the worst third-party lenses available. Why do you bother with such a cheapo when the original FD 2.8/135 can be had for just a couple of bucks more? Above all, no lens is perfect at its max. aperture.</p>

<p>Tibor, it's either the film, that wasn't loaded properly (make sure the rewind knob turns when you advance the film!) or the shutter of the camera is broken. Either way, set the camera to B, open the back anbd then fire with all apertures that you can set on your lens. Watch, if the shutter opens or not. And let us know what happened.</p>

<p>Adapting FD to EOS is more or less pointless, even with adapters who have a glass element. I once tried a quite good one by Fotodiox and was very diappointed by the image quality. Especially when you want to adapt lenses such as a 50mm one, that are easily accessible in the EF range.<br> That said, I mus admit that I enjoy quite a few of my many FD glasses on the EOS M via a cheap EF-F/FD-adaptor, just like Steven Clarke mentioned. In that way, my old FD lenses have made a leap into the digital future. I especially enjoy my FD 1,2/50mm and FD 2,8/135mm. The FD 3,5/50mm macro is also wonderful to use.</p>