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Uhooru

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Everything posted by Uhooru

  1. Uhooru
    Done that. Works great. I didn't pull development 2 stops, but it worked nicely exposing Neon 1600 at 1600 and pulling about 2/3 to a full stop or so .
  2. Uhooru
    At about the time of the tri-elmar maybe a little before, the prices on certain used Leica RF lenses especially 4th generation Summicron 35s and 50s came down quite a bit. This was before digital cameras and adaptors were available for Leica lenses. I'm not sure what you paid for brand new Summicron 50 Asph or the 35 Asph, over 2 thousand U.S.D or more, but you could get the latest pre-asph versions in great condition for 6-800 dollars before digital became the dominant light capturing system. When that flipped, the prices of the used lenses rapidly went high as well, probably driving up the price of new lenses to laughable amounts. Its why I've never sold any of my Leica lenses. If I sold a 50, and then decided in a year or two that I want back, its going to be expensive. So I just hang on to the ones I have and they get used on every mirrorless digital system, like Fuji.
  3. Uhooru
    He did mention LTM which is...a rangefinder.:cool:
  4. Uhooru
    It seems one of the cool things about digital photography now is it allows the flexibility to practice the zone system in the exposure phase that you really didn't have in 35mm film photography, remembering that Adams formulated the "zone system" to be used in shooting a view camera with individual sheet film. Personally, I use the camera's reflective spot meter in a WYSWYG EV and I can choose the where I want middle grey, or white or black and anything in between by where I place the spot, then lock the exposure, compose and shoot. It can be very fast, and right at the eye. However, I've found for digital shooting that it's much like shooting transparencies. I tend to shoot for the hi-lights, not the shadows, unless shadow detail is important. Often, for me, I like to let things go black and protect blown-out areas instead.
  5. Uhooru
    Its an R lens working on a SLR. Difficult to visualize zoom on a range finder as it isn't view through the lens, hence the Tri-Elmar. The other system for range finder Leica's are the old Visoflex [sp].
  6. Uhooru
    No I didn't However, If people want to give beginners information about nothing else but the physics of photography, why shouldn't they? Did we really need a cautionary warning about losing a focus on the meaning and aesthetics or stifling creativity? The info Glenn imparted is absolutely great for beginner photographers in my opinion, I don't think providing the info will endanger their artistic aspirations. There are other threads we can have about other aspects of making a photograph.
  7. Uhooru
    Well stripping out the long explanations behind the creation of the numbers is less important then knowing how the speeds and aperture settings work in relationship to each other to create exposure is pretty basic to photography and after using it should be as second nature as breathing. Difficult to do photography without having a working understanding of exposure, at least in my view. Knowing that doesn't in any way inhibit the creative aspects of picture making I don't think, and its probably ok to discuss the nuts and bolts of photography on its own merits without a danger of minimizing the creative aspects.
  8. Uhooru
    It's interesting to understand the math behind the f numbers. I think the main thing to know is given the use of modern aperture numbers that each number represents either double the amount or larger aperture number next to it. (+ or - 1stop, ie., F2.8 lets in half the light of F2). Next is to also realize that shutter speed numbers on modern cameras also represent 1 stop of light more than the speed setting to the next larger number. (ie 1/125 allows one stop more of light in than 1/250). So the importance for any photographer is to be able to create equivalent exposures using the combination of aperture stops and shutter speeds. Knowing the relationship there allows you to have some control over the Depth of Field and how that will effect the photo. For example, given that a photo is properly exposed at a speed of 1/125 (125 on the camera shutter dial assuming it has one) at an aperture setting of f/8, you can find equivalent exposures for a set of apertures/speeds so exposure wise 1/125 at F/8 = 1/60 at F/11; 1/30 at F/16; 1/250 at F/5.6 and 1/500 at F/4 and 1/1000 at f/2.8; 1/2000 at F/2 etc. Lastly, there is the + or - EV. Each EV whole number = one stop of light. Changing the EV number when shooting can give you a way to change exposure without changing either shutter speed or aperture setting. This is basic functioning and something that is used on basically any photo I take in some fashion. Hope this helps:)
  9. Uhooru
    Good friends at Joshua Tree National Park
  10. Uhooru

    Uhooru posted a gallery image in Travel

    © Barry A Fisher

  11. Uhooru
  12. Uhooru

    Body art

    Uhooru replied to Jon Eckman's topic in No Words

  13. Uhooru
    Another look at the Golden Gate Bridge....Summer day
  14. Uhooru
    Another what lens thread...ok, for me usually 35mm equivalent, but sometimes other.
  15. Uhooru
  16. Uhooru
    Untitled by Barry Fisher
  17. Uhooru
    Fuji 50-f2
  18. Uhooru

    Symmetry

    Uhooru replied to luis triguez's topic in No Words

    Untitled by Barry Fisher
  19. Uhooru
  20. Uhooru

    Lock it up!

    Uhooru replied to Carolyn D's topic in No Words

    Lock-9 by Barry Fisher
  21. Uhooru
    I suggest if any of you are interested, go to the website and do your research. They give information about the drop. All I know is I've bought other things there and haven't had a problem and if they sell name brands they go to the manufacturers. I'm not associated with them, and I'm not going to research this for people. Again its massdrop.com I think they describe the process of how they work.
  22. Uhooru
    Did you check out the site? it is legit.
  23. Uhooru
    Hi all, just came across a sale of this Fuji lens for $200 on Massdrop, a site I often use when I'm looking for backpacking and camping equipment. They work with manufacturers to produce what they term a "drop". You can get all the particulars there. I have no connection to them in any way other than a shopper. I probably won't get this lens because I already have a useful quiver of Fuji lenses, and adopter for leica lenses etc etc. But if you are interested, its a pretty good price. Everything I've bought from there has been as advertised. Its at Massdrop.com I should also say there is about 5 days left on this sale.
  24. Uhooru
    I used to use C1 a while back and felt it seemed to have a slight edge in Image Quality. But I never liked the work flow with it, and I think LR-PS are pretty good. Even if you have C1, there are still things you can only do in PS. It seems duplicate and unnecessary to use both. For me, I would just use the Adobe package.
  25. Uhooru
    Some use gloves, but always good not to touch the negative on the front or back, just pick up by the sides.
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