bebu_lamar

<p>Don't use matrix metering system. It works fine for digital as well as for transparency film but not good for color negative film. </p>

<p>Yeah the goverment should get real. One can look at the scene and remember the details and do a sketch if one is really a terrorist. I don't think the unibomber ever use a camera and yet he know how to deliver his bomb with precision. </p>

<p>So Bruce you would buy the D7200 if it has the Sony sensor although you bought the D7100 not too long ago? It seems very expensive to do so. </p>

<blockquote> <p>As I said in my original post I am starting from scratch, <br> I will be shooting mostly landscape and nature but I will also be shooting some portrait and social photos (to help pay the bills as they say)....Thanks Again Frank<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>Wow I am impressed! I have done photography for only 37 years and never could do any to help pay the bills. </p>

<p>Lens with aperture ring stays at whatever aperture is set. I never see any Nikon lens opened to maximum aperture when removed from camera. Including pre ai, ai, ai-s lenses. </p>

<blockquote> <p>(1) I have a genuinely bad example of this lens, possibly because the manufacturer's QC is too lax, but probably because someone dropped it before I got it.<br> (2) I have a typical example of this lens, but it doesn't live up to the hype on KR's site, or my rigorous handheld testing at 1/30s with an uncoated UV filter suggests it isn't 'critically sharp'.</p> </blockquote> <p>They way I think about bad copy I think only half of your #1 definition fit. That is it's a bad example of the lens due to manufacturing defects. If it's dropped then it's a damaged copy. If all or most of the lenses of the model are not up to your expectation then it's just a bad lens model and not bad copy.</p>

<p>I agree with William W. that unless you intended to use your camera professionally I think there is no need for a back up camera. Sure Murphy's law stated that something that can fail will fail but how bad is it if you camera fail? For me the cost of buying or repairing the camera hurts more than the lost images. If you want a DX for a different purpose than back up then it's fine. For example you may want to have the D7100 for longer reach and higher frame rate. </p>

<p>Although nobody has come up with a definite definition of mirrorless camera I am confident that your two cameras are considered mirrorless digital camera. </p>

<p>Yeah film does have the reciprocity failure but many film camera can stay on T indefinitely without battery and there is no long exposure noise problem. </p>

<p>HI Bruce for what reason do you want to know about the D7100 replacement? Just curiousity?</p>

<p>Yes Mike they do have the T setting. And unlike many people worrying about camera shake by pushing the shutter release button directly there is no such a danger for a 1.5 hr exposure. The vibration of a sec or so would not register anything on a 1.5 hr exposure. </p>

<p>Bad copy would mean that for a model of the lens almost all of them are good but the bad copy is significantly worse. If most of them are bad then it's not bad copy but rather bad model.</p>

<p>The Metz 60 doesn't have a zoom head but with a tele adapter which reduces the angle down to 85mm coverage would about double it's GN60. The Metz 70 and 76 are rated at 105mm too but still they are more powerful than the 64GN. </p>

<p>Ron I think you're the most knowledgable person in this forum about the subject. Do you think we can form a film company at small scale?</p>

<p>May be a new house with a darkroom designed just for me. I don't need no more 35mm cameras as I have what I want. I would want a Hasselblad 2xx series. Not the 500 nor the H series. I would want a 4x5 perhaps a Linhof Kardan Master. </p>

<p>First of all photography is a hobby to me so I don't nor want to earn money doing it.<br> There are a few primary purpose of my photography:<br> 1. First is not important but to record for example to show someone what something looks like. For example if I want a part of a machine and I need to show a person from far away what it looks like. This I do often but is not important to me.<br> 2. Second I take photographs to record what I saw. It's what I saw not someone else would see in the same place same time. I want the person who looks at my photograph to feel what I felt at the time I took the photograph.<br> 3. I am intrigued by the technical aspect of photography. I like to know how all the equipment works. I enjoy the technical aspect of photography very much.</p>

<p>GN64 at 100mm? How that compared to GN60 at 35mm with the Metz 60?</p>

<p>I suggested the OP to check out the mirrorless speifically to check out how well the OP can manual focus with live view or an EVF. Myself I simply can't do it. </p>

<p>Check out manual focusing on the mirrorless. If it works for you then great if it doesn't then you may need to go for the 7100. Too bad they don't make camera that is good for manual focus any more. </p>

<p>If you are into B&W I strongly recommend that you do it yourself. The equipment to to it is cheap and the process isn't that hard to get start. There are a lot of processing variation you can do with B&W and the lab while good isn't you and can't make the same interpretation like you do. </p>

<p>You confirm what I thought so that's why for any multiple flash setup I always do it in manual.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I'm sure a cheap D4s would be very popular :-). But you missed out my first feature, which is just as important as the others 'A D300/700/800 style body (not too heavy, not too small).' It's not just the price. When I bought my F100, I could have gone for a secondhand F5 for not much more. But I didn't want to be stuck with a camera the size and weight of a medium format body, even when I didn't need the framerate.</p> </blockquote> <p>May be this is the reason why I never want a D100, D200 or D300. The single digit model is simply better. Getting the 200 or 300 is only getting smaller camera and less money which didn't interest me. Of course and losing a lot of other things for not opting for the single digit model. </p>

<p>While the 1080p format has the standard and widely used media to distribute it namely the Blu Ray. There is no such thing for 4K yet. To watch 4K video right now you have to buy a player with something like 10 movies preloaded. </p>

<p>Well as far as flash I think there are 2 scenarios.<br> 1. A simple on camera flash with decent power with swivel, till and good dedication to the camera i.e. i-TTL, auto zoom, etc... This would be a unit like Nikon own SB-910 mounted on the hot shoe. This is good for quick shots.<br> 2. A mean to trigger multiple flash unit and they can be studio unit or portable flash unit. In this scenario there is no need for dedication, TTL, CLS whatsoever as the set up is likely to be time consuming an if you spend time doing so fully manual works jut fine. <br> Because of that I feel no need for the built in flash.</p>

<p>When I was young I was kind of anticipate the once in a lifetime image but as I grew older I don't think about it any more. Now I am like seeing something and then go home and get the camera to shoot it next week kind of thing. That is to shoot something that I can count on is always there. So I bring the equipment just enough for what I am going to do that time. I in general don't want to have a camera or a tool that does everything I like to have a tool for a task. That's why I have no smart phone just a phone that I can count on working and it has no camera either. It has long battery life, waterproof and quite tough. </p>