steve_johnston9

<p>If I want to shoot 3200 film correctly, do I need to buy a camera that is able to grade it at 3200 ?</p>

<p>sorry am losing the plot ignore previous response</p>

<p>So what are the point of faster cards ?</p>

<p>After much deliberation I have decided to ditch the rebel in favour of a 7D. One of the reasons I am going with the 7D is the better FPS, as my 500D would often lock up writing the files to the card in the middle of a shoot. I tried using xtreme Sandisk SD cards to improve this, but it didn’t make a lot of difference.<br>

Is this the same with the 7D, is there a bigger advantage with xtreme cards or is there only a negligible difference?</p>

<p>Not really a beginner, but I wanted to hear view from all sides. I regularly shoot in rainy or hot conditions. From what I have read for under £1200 the Olympus e-3<br>

Has the best weather sealing of any camera in this price range. Is this true ?<br>

I know you can buy covers for the camera, but I would rather invest in the best weather sealed camera. I am aware of benefits/disadvantages of four-thirds systems</p>

<p>Is there a viewfinder for for Olympus EP-1 that works across all lens not just specific ones ?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am a portrait photographer. I have been asked to do family group shoot (two parents two children) in there home. I normally do group shots outside or individual portraits in home, using a wide apeture to blur out the background. I am not sure how to approach this, should I shoot them naturally in their surroundings ? If have you got any examples of best ways to do this, where to pose etc. or should I get a portable background. If so can you recommend a portable background at a good price that will be big enough for four? </p>

<p>When using an enlarger, I never seem to be able to get the photo to cover the whole area of the paper (8X10). There always seems to be white parts. I am a novice in this area any help would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Lens would be just as important as the camera. He may be using a fast zoom with a 2.8 constant apeture or maybe even a prime like a 50mm 1.4 or 1.8</p>

<p><strong>many non photographers generally view a photographer as a photographer</strong><br>

Often after mentioning to people I am a photographer telling them my personal photography interests , the next question I get is if I photograph weddings as well<strong><br /></strong></p>

<p>How much difference is there ISO performance wise between the 7D and 5d mark 2?<br>

Theres some comparisions on the web but I know a lot of you wedding pros have real life experience of both. How much difference is there ISO performance wise between the 7D and 5d mark 2? Are we talking 1 stop difference here or two?<br>

I have heard that the 5d Mk2 is much more tolerant noise wise to underexposure. Can anyone comment on this? </p>

<p>Have been shooting with an Olympus Trip camera for the past couple of weeks and have got to say despite the full manner control I really have enjoyed working with this camera and love the results. One thing I would like to understand more though is about the shutter speed. From what I understand it is set at either 1/200 or 1/40, and the camera decides this. Does anyone know how in simplistic terms this works? Would I be right that if you select a wider aperture i.e. the closer up icon then to balance out the exposure in normal daytime the trip is more lightly to choose the faster shutter speed?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have a website at the moment. I use it to promote my commercial photography business, portrait photography business photography and weddings.<br>

I am also an exhibition art photographer, and am considering having a section to sell prints as well on the site. Do you think the two conflicts with each other? I recently thought this might be the case, but have recently rethought this, as many non photographers generally view a photographer as a photographer. Any views would be welcome.</p>

<p>I have a load of 35mm negatives I wish to scan, plus some prints. Mostly I print from a darkroom, however If I can’t access a dark room or if I later lose the negatives, I would like to be able to print up to A4 Size. My budget is about £100 I have come across this scanner. I came across this scanner Epson Perfection V30 Scanner 4800 dpi, is it up to the job ? Alternatively can you recommend another, I do have some 120 film, but I am not overly worried about this, but if I could find a 120 scanner for under £100 that would be great.</p>

<p><strong>Not to scare you, but a local photographer here in Los Angeles just lost a lawsuit. Most contracts say the photographer is only liable for the amount of the contract. His client hired an attorney and sued him for $40,000. I asked him why he didn't go to small claims court. He said their attorney sued in civil court. He didn't have insurance. I have no idea what he's gonna do. The photographer did a decent job, but missed some very important bridal portraits. This suit was very recent, I think in July. This photographer has 18 years of experience. He offered to reshoot the bridal shots but the bride refused saying her day was totally wrecked. Needless to say this bride was more into the money than simply taking a few shots over. The judge awarded her a full refund of the entire wedding, which was $40,000.</strong></p>

<p>Wow I live in the UK and that does still scares me. I’ve heard of one occasion of a wedding photographer being sued in the UK but his photographers were of the worse I’ve ever seen. How many lawsuits in the US are there around wedding photography disputes ?</p>

<p>Hello I shoot a lot of landscapes and I would like to know how to get the sharpness images possible using the equipment I have. Canon 500d, Canon Tamron 28-75mm and Canon 18-55mm.<br>

I believe that the following should be followed:<br>

Aperture at least F-8 or F-9 the higher the F number the better.<br>

Lowest ISO<br>

Use a tripod with auto timer or release remote.<br>

Centre point focus.<br>

Is there anything else, you would add here.</p>

<p>Apologies for the slow come back. Have been out of town this weekend with no access to my SLR</p>

<p>af beam doesn't seem to be lighting. thanks this must be the issue<em><br /></em></p>

<p><strong>Really it all boils down to how good you are at what you do, if you are really good, then you might be ready to go solo. It's hard to determine that without seeing the results you have been getting.</strong><br>

The problem is I know my weaknesses and my strengths. Ceremony shots I am very strong at even is very dark conditions, as well as reception and pre ceremony shots. My biggest weakness is group shots and shots outside the church requiring flash fill. I have been doing a lot of practice on flash fill recently, but there is no substitute for real life practice, hence the desire for more second shooting opportunities. <strong><br /></strong></p>

<p>Hello, I want to enter the wedding market in the right way and could do with some advice.<br>

I have had a long time interest in photography and had never really thought about it as a career. The main thing that put me off is that so many people seem to be pursuing it as a career. About six months ago though I was offered the chance to does two second shooting gig? As an excuse to spend a day just shooting I jumped at the chance and second shot three weddings. Since then I have shot a couple of events and some portrait shootings.<br>

I want to shoot more weddings one as a second shooter, but the guy I was shooting for is retiring, so I started emailing and calling photographers in my area. I have spoken/emailed over 70 wedding photographers with no joy. They have said either they don’t use second shooters or they use family/friends.<br>

I thought the issues might be my photos. But I have had interest from two studios....but they want me as a primary shooter, not a second shooter and I am not sure after three weddings I have enough experience for this, hence the reason I want more second shooter roles.<br>

Would appreciate advice on where to go from here.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am thing of buying the Panasonic 1.7 20mm Prime For my Olympus EP-1. Is the 40mm (X2 Crop factor) too short for portrait purposes ? I read somewhere that anything less than 50mm risks exaggerating people’s features. </p>

<p>Steve, flip the switch on the lens to the "M" position. Now will the shutter trip?<br>

yes</p>

<p><strong>Steve,</strong><br /><strong> When this happens, what focus point are you using?</strong><br>

I am using automatic focussing.<strong><br /></strong></p>

<p><strong>I don't think any DSLR has this feature but they have much better ways</strong><br>

Care to expand ?<strong><br /></strong></p>

<p>Why is it in near darkness my P&S can fire its flash and get a picture, but my Canon 500d SLR with speedlight just hunts for focus and refuses to take the shot?</p>

<p>Living in the UK we don’t get that many bright sunny days. As such I find it hard to practice my fill in flash, which is a pain as it is one of the areas that really needs improving in my photography. The only time I tend to get to use it is when I am shooting for real.<br>

I know this is a weird question but is there any way to simulate the conditions of harsh light, maybe using artificial light ?</p>