![](http://content.invisioncic.com/l323473/set_resources_2/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
steve_johnston9
-
Posts
340 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by steve_johnston9
-
-
<p>Soory this should read<br>
Which camera would produce better quality pictures a canon 30d (8.2 megapixels) or a Canon s90 (10 megapixels) ?</p>
-
<p>I would seriously consider contacting the British Journal of Photography. They take a dim view of this sort of behaviour and have won several victories in this area in the past. </p>
-
<p>All things being equal i.e. same exposure, standard lens. Which camera would produce better quality pictures a canon 30d (8.2 megapixels) or a Canon 50d (10 megapixels) ?</p>
-
<p>When reviewers talk about Manual Focus on an M9, is the manual focus the same as on an SLR ie. twisting the lense until the picture isin focus, or is there a different mechanism ?</p>
-
<p>How good is the fully auto focusing mode on the 7D compared to other models? Ie. 50d or 5d mk2 I do a lot of shots where I don’t have time to define the focus point and rely on full autofocus, let me know your experiences?</p>
-
<p>Hello I am interesting in trying some alternative cameras. I was going to buy an old Polaroid or a holga.<br>
I have noticed that there are several applications on the iphone and other phones systems that have been getting hyped by the tech press. I was wondering what people’s thought on these applications were if they were positive or negative? If so what don’t you like about them ?</p>
-
<p> I am looking into a system that will be able to develop some A0 zero prints for my company. I haven experience with 35mm film photography but no experience with medium format. I need to cost up the options for my boss.<br>
I would be looking for a system that is as easily to use as possible as I am a newbie to medium format and has autofocus. I am considering the Pentax 645N, as I have some experience with Pentax and it has autofocus.<br>
Is this a good option ? Can you think of other options ? Cost is an issue, while I don’t know my budget as my boss hasn’t agreed it, I have looked on ebay and seen them go for under £500.</p>
-
<p>yes my understanding is less is better with pixel density</p>
-
<p>Hello,<br>
I am going to be purchasing a new camera for my company. The purpose of the camera is to do large prints up to A1 and A0 Sizes. I know there a number of factors that contribute to ability to print at large size, ISO whether it was taken on a tripod etc. But my understanding suggests that I should look for pixel density over megapixels. Whats your view on this ? </p>
-
<p>Got the book for my birthday it's great. But so we have to have Martin Parr is every photography book ?</p>
-
<p>I recently had a problem where I lost all of the images. I had taken a load of shots in a row and it was still writing the photos to the card, I didn’t realise this and turned the slr off half way through, I noticed my mistake and turned the camera back on but all the photo’s had gone. Fortunately I was able to recover through a software package I bought of the web.<br>
But a friend of mine if ever he has any problems with an SD card he tosses them immediately on the basis that if it happens once it will happen again. But my thinking is that it wasn’t an issue with the SD card, but me therefore theres no need to toss the card ? what do you think ?</p>
-
<p>$<br>
Sorry, i might be being a bit stupid could you explain that a bit further, is that they spend money on google ads so that effects there ranking ? What do they spend the money on ?</p>
-
<p>How is it that a site that has no links, no text and a google rank of zero, continually comes out as the top studio (not a sponsored link) for key words in my area?</p>
-
<p>Is it possible to brighten a photo that is this badly exposed without getting a significant amount of noise ? I have the RAW version and CS4. But my attempt to brighten it just result in a lot of noise. I have tried noise ninja, the noise reduction in raw and correcting the exposure but to no avail,</p>
<p> If you can, could you give me some instructions.</p>
-
<p>When I was younger about 18-19 I used to get my film developed at the film store, and if there was anything “racy” in the picture, the chemist used to slap a sticker over it, it used to say something like “explicit” or “banned”. Does anyone have a scanned example of this ? </p>
-
<p>What does setting the incorrect film level on a camera do. Ie. you have a 400 iso film. But you mark it as 200 iso on your camera ? Is this a particular technique known as grading your film ? </p>
-
<p>thanks I have downloaded a sample of one of his books, that tells you what film he used for different shots.</p>
-
<p>Could anyone hazard a guess as to what film was used to create these photos<br>
-
<p>Is there anyway to get photos like this through post production in photoshop.</p>
<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lomokev/sets/73699<br>
I know some is gonna reply why don't I just use a Contax T2, it's because they go for £200+ on ebay and I haven't got that sort of cash at the moment.</p>
<p>I have tried playing with saturation and vibrance, and altering the curve levels, but it hasn't given me the results I want.</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Got to say that of all the versions, I prefer the original it looks a lot more like real life.<br>
I know we as photographers have photoshop, but we don't always have to use it. </p>
-
<p>I often have to shoot in harsh sunlight, as I cover a lot of garden parties. This is a problem as I hate having to use fill in flash, even diffusing or bouncing the flash, I really don’t like the results. I work alone so I had previously discounted using a reflector. However a friend mentioned he had seen a one handed reflector.<br>
I am considering buying one of these as an alternative to fill in flash. But my thinking is that I won’t be able to use it on large groups, as I would be too far away from the group to reflect the sun. Is this right what are people’s thoughts on this ? <em></em></p>
-
<p>Managed to get it out. You have to lift up the cylinder on the left with the yellow/blue strip. Then fiddle with it until you get it out.<br>
I thinks it's Vito automatic. It looks like the one below. I have got it out once not sure I will be able to do it again.<br>
Anyone know the correct way to do it ?</p>
-
<p>I have a Voightlander Vito, it was my granddads and my mum gave it to me after he died as she knew I was into photography. I have never shot film before so I thought it would be a great place to start. I spoke to my local Jessops and they seemed to think it took 35mm film. So I purchased some HP Iford 400 Black and white, as they suggested this was a good place to start.<br>
The film fitted and I was able to shoot a whole roll of film while I was away on holiday. I rolled back the film (so much so it went all the way back into the plastic casting, from what I have read in the manual I downloaded thats not good, but it can be corrected.)<br>
However the film seems to be jammed in the back of the camera. I have lifted up the release lever as the manual I downloaded from the internet says, but it won’t come out and it can’t be forced out. I have tried everything, please help.</p>
-
<p>RAW is often referred to as the Digital Negative. Say for example, you saw a ghost or a UFO and you had your SLR with you.<br>
If you shoot in jpeg, you could have made the alterations to the file, say cut and pasted the UFO and no could tell the difference from the file.<br>
When you make alterations in RAW it storing the data in a sidecar file. If you delete the sidecar file it deletes the alterations.<br>
However is it possible to make changes to actual file itself, like you would with a JPEG, and fake the UFO in the RAW file. Or is the RAW file unchangeable, So if I capture a picture of a UFO or Ghost in raw it can’t be disputed ?</p>
Band Photos
in Business of Photography
Posted
<p><strong>"hard to find bands willing to pay" - most of them are "willing" to pay, they just don't have any money. Take pity on them (unless they go platinum and get rich - then, hopefully they'll call you to be their official photographer and you can all get rich together).</strong><br>
Very unlikely the labels have there own photographers, you will be lucky if they even recognise you if they become famoue Start giving away your work for free and everyone will expect this. Charge them a low rate say £40. That works out at £10 per member, even bands can afford this <strong><br /></strong></p>