greg_nixon2

I don't wish to become the defender of Viewscan.......If you have purchased the professional version and are using the latest release, then all the problems mentioned so far have solutions. I can't comment on the Mac version but certainly on the Windows version. There are adjustments made to the preview scan which will save as seen in the preview. First choose one of the 200+ film profiles as a starting point. Then there are 10 preset colour settings to choose from. Read the help files to see what they all do. For a colour negative "white balance" seems to be the most appropriate. I bought Viewscan when the driver for my film scanner wasn't updated past W95 Good Luck. If this is all too hard then choose the basic setting and scan with that.

One big plus for Viewscan is that it ships with a scanners.inf file. This driver file supports approx 4665 scanners. Any other driver is not normally required. Go to the Hamrick website and have a look at the list of scanners that it supports.

I've posted a lot of photos on Flickr. Peel back the leatherette on both sides of the lens, remove the two screws on either side. You can see the links through the access plate on the LHS of the lens plate. You can see in the photos where the linkages are. You can also see where I damaged one of the levers and attempted to repair it, Go gently without forcing anything. Good luck nickon51

Hi William, Is the camera in auto or manual mode when this problem appears. Do you want to tackle the problem yourself? There are mechanical links from the metering to the aperture via a trap needle system. I have a few photo's of the internals. But you will have to partially dismantle he camera yourself.

The manufacturer's software should give good results provided its compatible with the operating system that your are using. There are lot of scanners out there that don't have current software or drivers. Viewscan fixes all that. Rather than look at Viewscan as a tool to extract an image for later post processing, I regard it as scanning software that doesn't require post processing. My aim has been to scan a negative or print and save that image as it comes out of Viewscan. There are a myriad of adjustments in Viewscan, so why apply image adjustments in Viewscan and the in another post processer?

I have some rolls of VP122 that have an expiry date in the mid sixties. Are there any tips on exposing and developing. Expose for a bit longer and develop for longer? Any tips appreciated.

An impressive collection Rick. Nice to see the gems in there.

For this site, at this time, I like to stick to the original Classic Camera rules. I shoot the frame, develop the neg and load it into PS. I normally have to adjust the levels and clean up the dust. The dust because I live in a dusty environment, levels because I'm not very good at choosing the exposure and scanning settings, That's about it. I don't do editing people and other items out of the picture. The picture should stand on its own merit.

again

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Here are a few frames from a Kodak Bantam. This camera used 828 film and produced negative sized 40x28mm. 8 shots on a paper backed film. In these photos I've used standard 35mm films as you can see by the sprocket holes in the frame.

I think I'll spool up some film on an 828 spool and take my Kodak Bantam out for a run.

3 Photos from a Yashica 44 Kodak Portra 160NC, PMK Pyro, Canon 8800F Viewscan Derelict Roadhouse Ramp from the beach Tuna Boat

Just to finish off the post, the problem was with the level of chemical in the drum. I ignored the instructions on the drum and measured the capacity first. All the band problems have gone away. Thanks to all who contributed a response. Kodak Portra 160 NC, PMK Pyro, Canon 8800F, Viewscan Tuna Fishing Vessel

Don, if you go to this site: Photoshop Elements > Step Wedge - The Understanding Tool and download the step wedge. On my monitor the two darker steps run together. Open the same file in Photoshop with a working space of sRGB etc. On my monitor the step wedge now appears with evenly spaced steps. You can now tweak your photo file until it looks right. The last step is to assign a profile to the image. If another user opens the file in a colour managed application there should be a warning message that the profile of the image is not the same as the working space.

Sandy: The way to ensure pictures are the same on different computers is to set them up to use the same gray gamma and color space. When you import a photo into Photoshop it reads the colourspace of the photo and asks whether you want to use the embedded color space or convert it to the working space. The easiest way to achieve this is to set all the devices attached to your computer to use the sRGB colour space. Also you have to set your operating system to use the same sRGB colour space. sRGB seems to be the default color space. Don't try to understand it all. That way lies madness.

Thanks for the additional info Dustin. Which make sense now. I have seen the model with the winding crank. we live and learn.

Well Murray that raises another question. First, I no longer think that the dark band was a light leak around the red window. I think the problem is more likely to be not enough solution in the dev tank. I will be trying this out over the weekend. As for the red window being in the centre of the film, on the film backing paper from Efke 127 the centre track is for 8 frames per roll. How does that compare with the number of frames that you have been getting? The outside track on the same backing paper is for 12 frames per roll, which is what I have been getting. As to lining up the frame number without the red window open, I don't think you can.

I would have a look down under the bellows and see if you can trace the mechanical linkage from the shutter button to the shutter. As well as that it is possible that the whole shutter has been rotated on its axis.

Interesting antenna farm, Yours?

Well this is embarrassing. I've been messing about trying to get the links to Flickr working and a few other comments, only to realise that the thread started in 2011. Is this a "feature" of this latest release of the software?

Konica Auto S2 This link will work. I hope! Photo DSCN2017 at about 1 o'clock, between the speed cam and the clicker plate, there is what appears to be a brass sleeved hole and a flat spring. The brass hole is where a post used to be. The post can be broken off if an owner attempts to unscrew the lens or it has been dropped. Tell tale signs are the CDS cell being off centre. Good luck if you are going to attempt a repair.

There are 3 threads about the Konica S2 at the moment. I don't think I can add much more than has already been said. I do have a. Flickr account and up there are a heap of photos of a Konica S2 in various state of disassembly. http://HTTPS://www.flickr.com/photos/3570661@no8 THat should get you close. The shutter as shown in the photos has a pin sheared off. I can't edit it ATM but will do so next week.

They really are very good photos coming from such a simple camera. Well done and thanks for posting.

Hi Robert, There is another adjustment which times the shutter release with the shutter switches. I am away from Home at the moment and don't have any camera resources with me, but I would recommend finding a repair manual on the net and doing that adjustment. Good luck.