greg_nixon2

I have been scanning some B&W negs today. These are from when the "One and All" came to visit our town a couple of years ago. Nikon F90, AF Nikkor 28-85, Adox CMS 20, in Adox Adotech II. Epson V800 with Vuescan.

It sounds like the meter is a trap needle type. The needle is trapped at the correct value and that value is transferred to the aperture mechanism. So an unresponsive meter will give an aperture at whatever the needle indicates regardless if it's correct or not. The fix is to unstick the meter, which may be difficult. Have a look and see.

Hi Murray, I got some steel today. I'll see how the tool goes and let you know.

Hi Murray. I revisited the camera repair, ie got the box of bits down off the shelf and had a look at the retaining ring. It's more complex than I first thought and the spanner that I photographed won't suit this camera and by the look of it, the spanner shown in the manual won't do the job either. I did take some dimensions from the camera and sketched up what I think we will need to get the retaining ring off. These measurements will need to be adjusted on a try and fit basis. I haven't allowed any working clearance, that will have to be added in on making it. I will make one to finish my camera, it's been sitting in bits for long enough. I thought I put it aside because the lens had some fungus in it, but maybe it was because I didn't have a tool to get the lens retaining ring off. Now to look for some suitable steel. Where are you located Murray? I should make 2 while I'm on it.

And the other photos; The readable PDF's won't upload (even as jpeg's) send me a PM with an email address and I'll mail them to you.

I have found a reference to the tool in a Kodak 35 manual. The attached PDF's show the tool and also the reference to where it is used. There is also a photo of a tool that I made out of a piece of flat steel. Put the tips on the retaining ring slots and turn with some pliers. It a bit crude but it did work.

Which camera, which part?

Thanks all for your replies. I am building a slitting jig for use in total darkness. Attaching the film to the takeup reels will be a bit tricky, I was hoping to be able to use a safe light for that. The film will be mounted on the jig, 100ft roll on the left, then the slitting bed in the middle, and then takeup spools on the right. The film will be emulsion side down for slitting and I need only to view the jig for a short time. The data sheet is here https://www.foma.cz/en/foma-air-100. Cheers

Thanks for your reply Alan. The keyword is green, I will look for a green filter. I did not know about reduced sensitivity when wet.

I have some wide aero film which I plan to slit down in width. In the darkroom I would like to be able to see the slitter and film while it is being loaded. The spec sheet for the film specifies "for a short time an indirect safelight of a 15 W bulb with the Agfa 108 filter can be used at a distance not less than 150 cm." What is an Agfa 108 filter and are there any equivalents out there. Cheers

Any further advice from me would be speculation. My C35 has film in it so I can't have a peep inside. Maybe when I finish the roll. Cheers

Lens cap off ? Point it at the sky opposite the sun. If that doesn't work you will need to start troubleshooting. Measure the cell voltage with a meter, check battery contacts. Camera in auto position, no flash mounted. I can't suggest much else you can do without taking the camera apart.

It looks like a 1959 Ford Fairlane Galaxie. Not sure about the Skyline designation.

Hi Hunter There is a film spool size chart here Roll and cartridge film sizes. The spool size is unlikely to be a 620 as they were not introduced until much later. More likely to be similar to 620 with smaller flanges. As you can see the main difference between your 117 and the 120/620 is the size of the flanges at either end. The 117 spool was good for 6 exposures, which would have led to a smaller flange diameter. I think I would first sacrifice a roll of 120 film and cut the film and backing paper for 6 exposures. These can be used a a template to cut unexposed film to size in a darkroom or dark bag. Turn down a 120 or 620 spool to 7/8" .875 diameter. If the 117 has a steel flange then best use a 620 spool. Roll the cut film onto the spool and see what happens. I have seen spools that want to bind a bit at the start. I found this to be caused by an overfull roll. Good luck.

Hi Chuck It doesn't look like the aperture leaves are seated properly. I would take it apart and make sure both ends of each leaf are sitting correctly. Good luck

Yes you are right. The Zinc air battery is 675 or ZA 675.

I have a sample of these cameras. Their operation can cause confusion as they are an all automatic camera in both outdoor and flash mode. Reading the manual doesn't help much in understanding how the camera works. The camera does require a battery for the light meter to work. If the meter moves up and down then the EE auto system is working. The auto system adjusts both the shutter and aperture to obtain the correct exposure. I use Zinc-air batteries which gets around having to re-calibrate the system for alkaline batteries. Put a battery in it, set it to auto GN14 and the film speed on the front and you're ready to go. The camera is an EE only which means that it is not possible to set the aperture or shutter speed manually. If you put a flash on the top, the camera senses, via small lever, that there is a flash. Set the GN on the auto dial and you're good to go. The camera adjusts the aperture depending on how far the subject is away. It picks up this information from the focus dial. There is no need to adjust the flash output settings. To select B, hold the auto button down and turn the B ring to index mark. It should click into a detent and lock in place. I should take this one for a walk around the town on the weekend.

That looks like an original Pen. The shutter on your picture is 1/2 open and looks jammed. The film won't wind on until the shutter is pressed for an exposure. No, don't touch the shutter blades. If you have good mechanical skills you can access the shutter through the front. Good luck.

We would need to know what you are printing from and what you are printing to. There are a myriad of settings in the print driver, and the software that's using the driver.

If there were no edge markings or numbers, then the film was not developed before the fix. Either exhausted developer or using the fixer first. just my experience and 2c worth.

You have a Gauthier dial set shutter. Hans has some disassembly and cleaning instructions on his Flickr album here Gauthier Vario Dial Set Shutter You may have to ask his permission to view the album. I would recommend a complete dismantle and clean. The camera looks like it takes 116 spools. 70mm film can be used to reload the spools.

This weeks photos are from a Nikon F55, Nikon AF Nikkor 28-80mm 1:3.3-5.6 G. Neither Classic or manual but it is a film camera. Nautical themes from a maritime museum which I have driven past many times but never stopped to have a look. Shot on Ilford Pan 100, developed in Ilfosol3, scanned with Epson V850, and Viewscan. Variable pitch prop Keel Only Anchor Rusty Boat Retired Pilot

Enjoyable post Rick. There does seem to be an active aircraft restoring community in NZ. When we were kids we used to read the literary masterpieces from Capt W.E. Johns. The Vintage Aviator | Here is a very good website for those so interested.

Here are some shots from a Nikkormat FT2 with a Nikkor 50mm 1:2. Film is Ilford Pan 100 developed in Ilfosol 3. Scanned with an Epson V800 scanner using Vuescan software. Kings Park Perth WA Kings Park Perth WA One of the Pubs in York WA A Lazy Sunday Afternoon in The York Main Street Enjoying an afternoon ride

Here are some shots from a Praktica Nova 1b fitted with a Sun Zoom 39-90mm with Macro. The film is Ilford Pan 100 developed in Ilfosol3 scanned with an Epson V800. The old Docs former residence The big Galah. Halfway across Australia 1:4 Macro. German Wagon