greg_nixon2

A few from my Nikkormat FT2 with its Nikkor 50mm F2, Ilford Pan 100 in Ilfosol 3. Scanned using an Epson V800 and Viewscan. Piggy's Bar Australia's own GM ute. The Aussie Ute Dusk in the Blacksmith's Shop. Holden's "Grey" Motor 132 CID, 2.15L

It can be tricky, but I have a V800 which takes 3 strips of 35mm negs. I also have a V700 holder which takes 4 strips of 35mm negs. I had to go into the crop tab and change the settings there. The basic steps are: Set the crop size, mine were 35mm, Set your X and Y offsets or use automatic setting for a start. Set the number of images down X=1 for a single strip Set the number of images across Y=6 for a single strip of 6. The other numbers are for setting the spacing and padding. Multi outline gives you the max size of the crop. The smaller 35mm crop will be inside one of those boxes. Turn the multi outline off, when the crop size boxes are where you want them. When all else fails read the advanced notes.

Good luck with that one. Brings back the nightmares we used to have when called to service these beasts. Makes me shudder just thinking about them. The new U-matic Cassettes weren't much better. The Video & RF out is called a PL259/UHF socket, these are still readily available, I would need to see the end of the mains plug/socket. The VTR output is likely a proprietary cable, although if you had pinouts of the cable you may be able to lash one up.

Joe: Missed that the first time round, but the furniture polish sound like a neat trick. Hard to say about the Photoflo, but I did get good results after cleaning the plastic reel with a toothbrush. Maybe it was the Photoflo or maybe it was a reel with nice clean tracks. I don't use it in the final rinse in the drum anymore.

Photoflow or Ilfotol has copped a lot of flack as being the cause of sticky plastic reels. Now I clean the grooves of the reel with a tooth brush and warm water. I also pull the film off the reel and sit it in a reel sized container. Then add the Photoflow to the loose film in the container. That prevents the reel from being dunked in a Photoflow solution. The cleaned reels or the ones not dunked in Photoflow are much easier to load. If you intend to use the reels again for a second batch, a hair dryer is good in assisting the reel drying. Sweaty hands don't help. I you don't have a dark room, step into a light proof closet and spool it up in there, then back into the tank.

Thanks Dave, just what I needed.

Dave, any pictures would help. Thanks

Hi Subbarayan. Thanks for the links. None have the service manual for this camera listed. OTC may have it. I'll check. Of the service manuals listed, MTL3, MTL5, SuperTL1000, SuperTL3, TL1000, TL3, are any close to the nova 1? Sorry to hear about your ill health, I hope you can resolve it soon.

A few posts back I was talking about M42 lenses for this camera. I would like to take the top off and have a look at the prism and also clean under the iso dial and and frame counter dial. Does any one have or know where to get a service manual for one. I really don't want to leave scratch mark on the decals.

I've shot a few frames with the inbuilt meter. I guess I'll know when I develop the film if it's in the ballpark. I have the iPhone light meter app, I just never seem too use it. Thanks Joe for your comments and Dave for yours on your metering experience.

Thanks all for your replies. AJG: There is a stop down pin on the lens which is coupled to the camera, and the lens will stop down to the set aperture. Useful for DOF preview at light shutter button actions. Dave E: I see that button which inhibits the semi circular piece under it from coming forward and stopping the lens down. It works as it should. Yes the meter is an uncoupled selenium meter, not TTL metering. John: That exactly what I was hoping to see, but there isn't one. Which begs the question, how do you meter with the uncoupled meter and take the aperture setting into account?

I have a Praktica Nova camera, with a Sun Optical Zoom attached. Changing the aperture on the lens doesn't have any effect on the metering in the camera. The lens has a stop down pin which works ok, and it has an aperture tab which is functional. There doesn't seem to be anywhere in the camera body to where the aperture tab is coupled. Is this normal behaviour for M42 Lenses?

I thought it was going to be one of those cases like my F90, but in the end it turned out too be just a thin layer of sticky rubber over a plastic base. It all cleaned up with some methylated spirits. I took the opportunity to go over the whole camera to bring up to pristine condition. Thanks for all your suggestions. PS methylated spirits is ethyl alcohol with about 5% methyl alcohol.

I have one of these camera. I grabbed it of the shelf to use it and have found that the rubber handgrip on the RH side of the camera has become very sticky. What are the chance of finding a replacement part, or finding a cleaning method that works.

Scan the print!

Went for a walk along the wharf looking at the fishing vessels Nicca III, Nikkor 50mm, Foma 100, PMK Pyro, Viewscan. Shifted outside to the table and took some shots across the marina. Ricoh 500, Riken 4.5cm, Foma 100, PMK Pyro, Viewscan

I have a Rollop TLR. The film compartment has no coating on the inside, just the bare die cast finish. Googling around with no clear direction I came across this: Vantablack | Surrey NanoSystems It would cut out any reflected light but would make looking in detail at it difficult. Just sayin.

Yep ok. I would have worked that out in about 100 years.

Another fly by. Rodeo: what is your avatar a photo of. Looked at for ages now and I still can't figure it out.

Nikon AF-s 50 f/1.4 G need to have their aperture set on camera and not on lens. Modern Digital SLR's do this and almost all of the digital lenses are G type lenses. The only Nikon film body that I know of is the F401.

I have a couple of these cameras. One has been serviced and is working well. The other is still dismantled. If you want any photos or have questions, now is the time to ask. The lower arrow points to a gear that is turning on the film advance and return stroke, while the upper arrow and gear turn on the advance stroke, but not on the return stroke. I imagine you have checked the obvious, like loose grub screws at either end of the advance rod. Best of luck.

I would say that you are going to have to strip the shutter down to the aperture leaves. Its a Prontor shutter which are easy to get into. I can't point to any links but there must be some out there. prontors1 Here's a link that should get you started.

I have 2 of these cameras. They are victims of the sticky shutter syndrome. The are a lot of photos here Minolta Himatic 7s. The lever in the 1st photos can cause problems if not replaced correctly, DSCN2124 Good Luck.

A few frames from a Voigtlander Vito B. These were taken a few years back The film was most likely Kodak Ektar 100. Jaguar More Jaguars Ford SV V8 3 wheeler

Here is a comprehensive list of camera batteries Camera Batteries - a complete chart - Photoethnography.com's Classic Camera DB along with their chemistry. There are more links at the bottom of the page. A bridge circuit neither raises or lowers the voltage. It measures by comparing the ratios of 2 resistances against the ratio of another 2 one of which is derived from the CDS resistance. The ratios do not change so it is a voltage independent circuit. It will work above 1.6v and below 1.3v. Zinc Air cells work well as a replacement for mercury cells. Their output voltage is between 1.35v and 1.4v. The Wein cell will last longer than a hearing aid cell. The Wein cell has 1 air hole and hearing aid batteries have 4 Cris adaptors work by delivering Silver oxide cells 1.6v through a schottky diode. The drop across the diode is nominally 2v, however this varies considerably with temperature and load.