greg_nixon2

<p>Thanks for the replies. The trap needle auto exposure works very well. I guess that's the way it is.</p>

<p>Marcel, I see that you are using a Minolta Himatic 7S.<br> I have one that shot some film through, but found that the shutter action does not take effect until right at the end of the shutter button stroke.<br> How does yours behave?<br> Greg</p>

<p>I'm messing about with a Kodak Tourist II. I would like to run some FomaPan 100 through. Just for information's sake, what would the film speeds have been? On the back there is a selection of film types to set the reminder dial to. They are:<br> plus X<br> super XX<br> Infra Red<br> Daylight Type A<br> Kodachrome<br> Kodacolor<br> Ektachrome<br> Verichrome<br> They may/would have changed, but its film speed cc 1952 that I'm after.<br> Cheers<br> Greg</p>

<p>They are pretty good shots for such a small film 'chip'. Haven't had much to do with sub minis, my 1/2 frame Olympus Pen is the smallest I have.</p>

<p>That looks like and functions likes a keeper. I particularly like the colour film in this post. Great work as usual. </p>

<p>Nice find Rick, and the usual top quality images. I have a 500 with a Riken 45/2.8. It produces outstanding images.</p>

<p>2</p> <div></div>

<p>Here are a couple from the Cleve agricultural field days.<br> Taken with a Minolta Himatic 7S<br> Developed in PMK Pyro, scanned using a Coolscan IV with Vuescan.</p> <div></div>

<p>Milke<br> Good results with the 5222 film, not a film that I would have looked for. I googled it and found at least one vendor who spools it in to 35mm rolls. One to watch for I think.</p>

<p>Medium format at its best. Excellent shots Rick, and also Rick van's shot with Ektar film, from the 'unboxing post'.<br /> Linda Lens eh! must have been one of Jimmy Olsen's colleagues.</p>

<p>Brian Wallen's site has more information on the Medalist I and II. An informative read if you haven't come across it before.<br> http://www.bnphoto.org/bnphoto/KodakMedalist.htm</p>

<p>Nice find Rick. I've looked for them from time to time. The Ektar lens is pin sharp as your preliminary photos show. One of the features that intrigued me is Kodak's way to get a 100 mm lens on a camera without using bellows. Also Ektars at their best, should not be front cell focused. The double helix gets around both of those problems very nicely. Have fun with it, looking forward to seeing more examples from this camera.</p>

<p>Hi Donald, I have an 8800, you can scan 4 slides in a pass. The main drawback is that it doesn't have ICE correction. Clean the slide when mounting them in the holder will reduce the amount of manual spotting that you have to do.<br> A puffer brush is a good non-damaging dusting tool. I have also used a product called "Film Cleaner", it looks to be mainly isopropyl alcohol (800ml/L) I don't know what the other 20% is.</p>

<p>Next weekend for the last one. Maybe I'll learn to resize by then</p>

<p>#3 again</p>

<p>#2</p> <div></div>

<p>3 more from the Tower<br> #1</p> <div></div>

<p>Superb photos Nord. They showcase both your photograhic skills and the Minister's performance. You will be hard pushed to find a better range finder of that era.<br />Thanks for sharing</p>

<p>I don't think this one has made an appearance hear before now.<br> Kodak Monitor 616, Portra 70mm, commercially developed, scanned with Canon 8800.</p> <div></div>

<p>@Brad, I have the same problem when scanning B&W film. The scans look flat and require some sort of post processing. I have tried unsuccessfully to get a decent scan right from the negative, without post processing. If you find a workflow, please share it.</p>

<p>This site has a blow by blow description of how to dismantle the shutter and how to get it back together again.<br> http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/zeiss%20super%20ikonta.html<br> There is also another site which I can no longer find, for setting the range finder, if the prisms hadn't been disturbed in relation to one another. If I find it I'll sent you the address.<br> The shutter is in the Compur repair manual. I have that and can scan and send the pages. I think from memory it was a 1306 or similar.<br> The shutter can be accessed from the front right down to the aperture blades. You may need to access the back to release some of the screws.<br> Just Google Super Ikonta range finder adjustment and there will be a lot of sites come up.</p>

<p>I came across when looking thro eBay.<br> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aussie-Photographers-Formulary-Powder-TS-4-Stop-Bath-for-B-W-Film-Paper-10L-/262476232150?hash=item3d1ccd75d6:g:pCQAAOSwDuJWuti1<br> Googleing around for data does say that it is an alkaline fixer.<br> If the Arista fix doesn't work out I'll give that a try.<br> peter and Bill, I did read that extending the wash times does allow the stain to further form.</p>

<p>Rick,<br> I am continually impressed by your photos. Sharpness that you achieve is something that I have not seen before in 35mm format.<br> I have a bulk roll of FomaPan 100, plus a few rolls in 120. I have got together enough PMK Pyro, and fixer to develop in Pyro.<br> I will go out and shoot some of the local land marks. There are not many but I can always shot the same thing twice.<br> Cheers</p>

<p>I would say that this problem is one of the the timing trains. The shutter itself is quite straight forward as Compurs go. There is a slow speed train and a faster one. I had to replace one of the trains once. On these Super Ikontas its the double prism range finder that can give you a lot of grief. Just mark every thing. Mark the front and back prisms in relation to each other at infinity focus. Do the same for the gear train that drives the prisms. There is a link to a site that might help if you have the gear spring off.<br> http://www.dvdtechcameras.com/info/1.htm<br> Good Luck</p>

<p>What the others have said. Loading a tank in a dark bag in not too hard. Practice with a discarded roll and practice in daylight and then in the bag.<br> I mainly use Ilford chemicals and the developer is diluted as required for a "working" solution. I don't darkroom print the negatives but scan then and send them to a dedicated quad tone printer. That may be more than you want to do, but you can take your scans to any photo kiosk and get them printed from the file. Don't be seduced into scanning at max resolution and 16 bit tiffs. You don't need it and Frontiers and similar printers max out at 300 dpi. Fine art and scans for enlargements are different. Have a look around for dedicated film scanners. There are a few about and some bargains to be found now that the owners of those scanners have finish digitising their photo collections.<br> I'm sure you will get a lot of help from the members here regardless of what you decide to do.</p>