evan_dong1

Hi Kadir, I know of one other master Repairman whom will take the entire Shutter assembly OUT and rebuilt it up from Scratch. I had him modified a CZJ 180mm 2.8 Sonnar MC for me. Works like a charm on my Hasselblad 2000FCW.

I suggest to send it out to Precision Camera Repair in Chicago. Bob Watkins is the Mamiya Authorized Repair Station.

Philip, I would go with the 201F body mainly because everything BUT The Rear Curtain Assembly is available IF needed for any repairs. I was informed over last Summer that no rear curtain assembly are available Worldwide form Hasselblad. The 2003FCW were made in small quantity before the 205TCC, 202FA, & 201F were introduced. The 2003FCW was the last of the 2000 generational bodies. I have NOT handled one, but understand due to low quantity manufactured, most of the internal components are not common. The 2000FCW is the predecessor of the 201F with the exception of its titanium rear shutter curtain. All internal components of the 2000 series: Electronic circuit boards & rear curtain curtain assembly are no longer available. Hasselblad would not service any of the 2000 series nor will they repair it. For the 200 series bodies, all components are available EXCEPT for the Rear Curtain Assembly Use that as a guide for any future purchase. I submitted to hasselblad Bron USA a 3rd Party Master Repairman whom can service (CLA) t he 2000 series and replace the rear titanium curtain with a New rubberized silk curtain. He has NO ELECTRONIC SPare parts for the 2000/200 series, as he has no outlet to purchase them from hasselblad. YET he can repair the rear curtains for both the 2000/200 series bodies provided the electronic are all good & working.

Erwin, Nice A Rare Rollei SL66E. I bought one but no n wanted to touch it for they had no spare parts and alo no working knowlede on t. SO I send it back for a refund. Only one shop was willing to work on it, and they were in Germany! Do you still shoot with your Rollei SL66? Its a heavy camera, but has top notch quality built. and lenses to match.

Erwin, Very nice setup you created for your Rollei SL66. Do yuo have an Extension tube on the 80mm standard? Evan

I heard pretty much the same as what was mentioned by Edward and Tom. The 250mm has been around since the 1600/1000F series camera was introduced. I have one of these lens and it is very fine. Now, all I need to do is find someone to repair one of my hasselblad 1000F body snd doa CLA on the other. The 250mm F4.0 for the later 2000/200 series i acquired late last year, I hope to get out there with warmer weather.. The older C non-T & T* lnese re a work of marvel. I'm currently having an older 120mm 5.6 S-Planar T* being overhaul for me. Complete teardown with reflocking of the internal barrel . I hope to get it back soon.. Evan

Kaugu, I looked over that lems when it was LIVE auction. I opt out only because it was the older C T* lens. I would had prefer it to be either the CF or CFE version. Definitely a GOOD buy to the purchaser. I eventually purchased the 250mm F4.0 Tel-Tessar F to use on my 2000FCM & 201F. Evan

Kat, The Proxars, are they Bay 50 or Bay 60? The Bay 50 Proxara I have has a slight bluish tinge to it. Bay 60 Proxars, I have to eait to get them back form my friend...

<p>The Rollei 6000 & Hy6 System is a propriety system, so any thoughts of adapting any lenses for it will not work.</p> <p>Carlos, I would suggest that you search for older 6008 lenses instead of the current newer lenses made.<br> The glass and I would guess the coating was reformulated for environmental purposes. Think it was with the Kyoto Protocol of 1997.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Neil,</p> <p>If your 100mm C requires he standard CLA, I would opt to keep what you and allow David Odess to perform the servicing on the lens, camera body and magazine, IF that is the included in that $500 price.</p> <p>If nothing else is worth with the lens, once serviced it will work well for a long time. Maybe buy into additional lenses if you do not have any other lens beside this one.</p>

<p>Stick with the 100 & 400 as you initially planned. On a "test-mode" side, take several rolls of the 800 and try. You might be able to correct it in LightRoom or PhotoShop. Just take a little longer to get it right, but doable.</p> <p>In doubt, if you are stopping either in Beijing or Shanghai, 120 film is available there.</p>

<p>The Pentacon 6 lenses are easily adaptable for the Hasselblad 2000/200 series.</p> <p>I have the Arsat 30mm MC, 120mm 2.8 Biometar MC, 180mm Sonnar Pre-Set, a MC version will be coming in after it has been completed, and a CZJ 300mm 4.0 MC.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Philip,</p> <p>I would limit me to what Tom Chow has listed as following:</p> <p>CF FLE - new optics, with pre-set floating group.<br />CFi FLE - better flocking, less prone to flare (according to Zeiss)<br />The optical formula changes only once on the "C" lenses, with the FLE. Arguably similar performance at infinity in the center, but improved close and edge performance with the FLE.<br> F - original F series, with a floating group<br />FE - addition of electronic contacts. 2 versions cosmetically, always the same optically (although the filter ring on the latter version did not rotate when focusing).<br />The F series was optically excellent, at the cost of size and weight.<br> Both the F & FE can ONLY be used on the 2000/20 series bodies, so you have one of th 500 Series body, Start with the CF FLE at the minimum entry point lens.</p> <p>I have the 50mm CF FLE, 50mm F, & 50mm FE to use on my 501CM & 205TCC, & 2000FCM.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Brett,</p> <p>Sorry, was busy with personal issues.</p> <p>Here is one individual that i had used to service & CAL my Hasselblad 1000F lenses.</p> <p>Clarence Gass is his name.<br> http://gasscamerarepair.com/</p> <p>Another one is local within the East Coast.<br> Owner name is Stanislav. He was the former Repair Dept Manager for Kiev USA (Saul Kaminsky)<br> He also works on the mechanical Hasselblad 1600F & 1000F cameras.<br> http://mechanicalcamerarepair.com/</p>

<p>Hi Robert,</p> <p>Whom did you use for the lens modification? I have at least two of these Hasselblad lens mounting block...</p> <p>I have two older Pre-Set CZJ 180mm Sonnar 2.8. Not bad of a lens.</p> <p>Which Kilfitt 90mm lens do you have? Model # 219 or Model #24?<br> Can you post a photos of this lens modified?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Brent,<br> Your camera might require a servicing & a good CLA.</p> <p>Where are you located?</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Brent, <br> I had the original ground glass replaced with a newer version that had a + in the middle. It was brighter, especially using the NC-2 Prism.</p> <p>For me it as wider view and a corrected view using diopter.</p> <p>Let me ask around for a good repair shop for you. I will try to take a photo and upload it.</p>

<p>Charles,</p> <p>Please keep us posted! I would love to extend the use of these older Leica lenses onto my Nikon DSLR if possible.</p> <p>IF not, then port it for my Leica M4-P. If I do plan to use it on my Leica M4-P, what exactly do I need to make this lens work?</p> <p>For the Hasselblad 2000/200 series, I want to see of the FotoDiox adapter works. One of my friend had one of these adapter for his Visoflex 200mmF4.0 Telyt. Works like a charm...</p>

<p>I will in possession soon of a Leica 125mm F2.5 Hektor lens.</p> <p>I would like to use it on my Nikon DLSR D7000, and if possible on my Mamiya 645 or Hasselblad 2000/200 series body.<br> Would this possible and which brand of lens mount adapter do I look at?</p> <p>I was told to look at Fotodiox, as they make short mount lens mount adapter plats that will allow me ot continue to use these older Leica lenses in a digital world and hopefully on a Medium Format camera.</p> <p>Thank You in advance to all,</p> <p>Evan Dong</p>

<p>Brett,</p> <p>Get the camera overhauled. In this case a good CLA and have the magazine adjusted too for the overlap issue. SO far it looks pretty good, any light leak? If so get new light seals.<br> Not sure where you are you located, it would be a hard search for a good repairman willing to work on a pure mechanical camera..<br> He overhaul both of my 1000F and he has since retired.</p> <p>Which lenses do you have for this camera? I'm using the 60mm Distagon, 80mm Tessar, 135mm Sonnar and 250mm Sonnar.<br> Using the NC-2 Prism for its ease of operation & with the correct diopter for my eyes.</p> <p>Try shooting some color film!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Brett,</p> <p>I think someone was going to start modifying a lens for that tube. I would hold on to it for now.<br> You can always sell it at a later point.</p> <p>I have two of these 1000F kits. Nice camera....<br> Evan</p>

<p>Annabelle,</p> <p>Send it back for a refund. Far too many equipment sold on eBay that requires major investment to repair.<br> Try buying it from Keh Camera. A tad more, but no issue returning it for refund.<br> Sounds like a computer chip issue.</p> <p>I use my Pentax 645N over the original 645. The original 645 has a film wind issue. Might be a solenoid or something else.<br> Not worth fixing. Better to locate another backup body.</p> <p>If you insist on keeping it, ask for a partial refund to have it fixed by Pentax Corporation, now Ricoh Imaging</p> <p> </p>

<p>Unfortunately Edward is dead on with his comment. The Acute Matte D screens came out later in the V system lineup. The H system was introduced around that time and it was highly marketed.<br> Hasselblad was selling off the original Acute-Matte Screens to make way for the newer D screen. I am also looking for a NEW #42110 for its circular "Sweet Spot" marker on the screen. This screen can be used on the 205TCC &FCC, 203FE, & 202FA for its metering system.</p> <p>However I was told that ALL Acute-Matte D Screen will work in these 200 series metering cameras.</p>

<p>Hi Patrik,<br> Where are you located?<br> If you are located in the USA, then ask for Dennis Grecco, he is the resident 200 series repairman. All 2000/200 series optics are send directly to Sweden for any repairs, as they stock all worldwide parts.<br> Hasselblad USA will repair that baffling material. A simple fix,, as it is a part of the light baffling material used to flock the interior of the camera.<br> Which shop did you buy i form? Would they still have any NOS? <br> If you are using the 110mm F & 50mm 2.8 F, I guess you would use it in Stop-Down mode since it is not a FE model with the electrical contacts.</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>DB,<br> Bite the Bullet, just go for the B70 to 77mm adapter. DOwnsizing will create vignetting at the outer edges of the filter.</p> <p>I bought my Bay 70 to 77mm filter adapter ring and several new B+W filter. Definitely get a 77mm front lens cap, in fact at least two.<br> Don't look back!</p> <p>Evan</p> <p> </p>