evan_dong1

<p>Kadir,</p> <p>Why not wait till you have a single lens kit cobbled together? Try out the single lens to see if you do indeed nned to buy anymore lenses.<br> Your Nikon 105mmF1.8 is a fantastic lens. You would not get much, but you would get a lot of use out of it. Beside you use whatever lens you buy for the Hasselblad on the Nikon.<br> I would hold off on the A-16 back, and use the Hasselblad for Square until you decide to take the hook & sinker for a complete Hasselblad setup. The Mamiya 645 is a versatile system that would not get you much in this digital environment. <br> There is so many unknown until you physical handle the Hasselblad with that one lens. Go the one lens route for now until you are ready to make the commitment. You would miss the use of the Mamiya 645 and the Nikon, as they are two different camera system when compared to the Hasselblad..<br> Just my two cents here..</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi Kadir,<br> I second Bob's input on B & H Photo. Henry, you are a great inspiration as you had helped many people over the years. I can be counted as one who received your help. If you purchased the lens for m B & H Photo, all used items will carry a 6 months warranty,as they are CLA prior to being sold. Best deal out there with no hidden issues.<br> That say, if you have a 500C body, best thing for you to is to have CLA and upgrade the old screen to a newer bright screen. Most folks will tell you that the older Ground Glass screen has a "Snap-To" contrast when focusing. If you are near a shop where you can view a 500CM (Newer body) with either a Beattie or Acute-Matte screen,you will see the difference. Decide then which screen works for you.<br> LENSES: You first lens should be a 80mm. I have used that lens countless times as it has the appropriate focal length for most of my work. At a later stage when you feel you must have different focal length to compliment the 80mm or whatever lens you choose, look into these combinations:</p> <p>50mm - 80mm -120mm (Maybe 150mm)<br> 60mm - 100mm - 150mm</p> <p>All of the above lenses are Excellent. At today's prices, I would recommend going with the CF version. Of course of you acquire a C lens, make sure its at least a T*. Talk with David Odessa regarding the C lenses and why for the long haul, go for the CF.<br> For all of these lenses (don't think the 80mm will work with certain tubes) use Extension tubes to help you "reach" your subject. I bought as individual units based on my needs the necessary tubes I felt I needed to get my work done.<br> If you look hard enough, you might want to rent the basic lenses for a 1 week trial period to help you decide which lens to start with.<br /> Based on your type of photography, try the 60mm (not so wide), 80mm (Basic), and even the 100mm (a tad longer).<br> With these three choices, it will help you determine which one to choose as a starting basic kit.<br> WLF or prism: Again your preference here. I use both, as the prism are inexpensive. Look for the Kiev NC-2 prism. Its a copy of the Hasselblad NC-2 prism. They are plentifully and inexpensive.<br> Good Luck and enjoy your hasselblad!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Philip,</p> <p>I have a 205TCC that uses the TCC-12 magazines, thus allowing for the film speed and Zone System adjustment.<br> I wasn't sure of the E magazine, but here is a posting on the various Hasselblad magazines if it helps:</p> <p><strong>NOTE:</strong> Hasselblad makes three basic types of film magazines: "A", "E", "E-CC". They are interchangeable with all Hasselblad cameras. The "A" type is the standard non-electronic magazine in the Hasselblad line.<br> The "E" type is specifically designed for the 200 Series and is equipped with a film speed programming dial and electronic databus connections which transfer the film speed to the camera's metering system. It can be used with the 500 Series cameras but only works mechanically.<br> The "E-CC" magazine is specific to the 205FCC model and is not only equipped with the same "E" features, but also has a contrast control dial ("CC") which is used in conjunction with Zone System black and white photography.<br> Note: The "E-CC" film magazine is only available in chrome trim</p> <dl><dd >It comes with a 120 insert which provides 12 exposures for the 6 x 6cm format</dd></dl><dl><dd >This magazine fits all Hasselblad models including the ArcBody and FlexBody</dd></dl><dl><dd >This magazine is equipped with a film speed dial (ISO)</dd></dl><dl><dd >When it is used with the 202FA, 203FE and 205FCC cameras, the film speed is automatically transferred to the camera's metering system</dd></dl><dl><dd >The "E" Type film magazines are available in either black or chrome trim and feature a dark slide pocket and memo clip</dd></dl>

<p>Quite simple, at the end of the ten years, as i know firsthand with my all Contax equipment serviced recently, parts are being depleted in the servicing. What can be service here will be done so. For the higher end items like the 645 system and possibly the N Digital, servicing is done in Japan. If parts has been depleted, then there is no options any longer.</p> <p>I would highly recommend you get all your equipment serviced when its still available.</p>

<p>Daniel,</p> <p>Thank you for the link. I have another Gossen Luna-Pro F which do calibrate in that matter as described in this thread.<br> The only difference is the Luna-Lux which uses a (3) Three LED Diode. Nothing mention in the original Luna-Lux manual on how to calibrate it correctly. I will send to QLM out in LA. I spoke with Bogen today and they were unable ot help me...</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Quite easy to Google it. I just hope that this notice is not perceived as an April Fools Day prank.</p> <p>http://www.tocad.com/serviceandsupport.html</p>

<p>Yes, I was a bit wary of that DATE. But it was told to me by the Head of Service. That came directly off of Tocad America's website, not generated by me... Just passing on information to Contax users...</p> <p>Most of mt 645 equipment is in Japan for the final round of servicing prior to the complete shutdown of servicing as promised by Contax-Yashica parent's company Kyocera.<br> It appears that what remains of NEW Spare parts will be serviced by Nippon Photo Clinic.</p>

<p>Heads up for all Contax-Yashica Product Users. All users has until April 1 for Tocad America to service your Contax gear.</p> <h2>Services</h2> <p><strong>IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING CONTAX SERVICE</strong><br /> <strong>Effective April 1, 2015 ToCAD America will cease service of all Contax equipment.</strong><br /> <strong>Beginning April 1st, please send all Contax units for repair to:</strong><br /> <strong>Nippon Photo Clinic</strong><br /> <strong>37 West 39th Street, Suite # 401</strong><br /> <strong>New York, NY 10018</strong><br /> <strong>(212) 736-4663</strong></p>

<p>Mokul,<br> The lighting f the center LED is not pinpoint accurate. I would hit the Center, then afterwards it would jump left to right, but never stay in the center or lighting up the center. I also found the readings to be off compare to my Minolta Autometer III and my other Gossen Luna-Pro F. I found an old posting where the user asked about calibration for the same issue with the Luna-Lux. I check with Gossen and a shop in LA named Quality Light Metric.<br> Unfortunately he has no website...<br> Evan</p>

<p>HI Mukul, <br> Thank You for your reply. I have the original manual and i was unable to find anything related to calibrating the meter.</p> <p>One would think that the screw you mention is for calibration, but the manual never mention anything regarding that screw.<br> <br />Definitely "Jumping around", I wait a couple of days before I escalate it to Gossen..<br> <br />Thanks for replying.</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Hi Folks,</p> <p>I recently received a Gossen Luna-Lux meter. Is it possible to re-calibrate the meter by myself just the Luna-Pro SBC and Luna-Pro F? The meter appears to be erratic in how it jumps around when in use..</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Aaron,</p> <p>These older Mamiya 645 uses an electric circuit board and there are no spare parts beside stripping it from a junker. </p> <p>I used a Mamiya specialist to overhaul a Mamiya 645 1000S kit prior to sending it off to my niece in Berlin, Germany.<br> Minimum amount of work required as i was the second owner of the kit. </p> <p>You can try and contact Precision Camera Works. The owner's name is Bob Watkins. <br> Here is his website: http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/<br> <br />He is a good technician and will not steer you wrong.</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Mike,</p> <p>Nice photos shot with film based cameras. Please continue to show more of your photos..<br> Evan</p>

<p>JDM, nice article. I love my Pentacon 6TL and its newer Wolf-in-Sheep-Rubber dress: Exakta 66 MK3.</p> <p>My favorite lenses for the Pentacon 6TL are the non-MC and MC version of the 50mm Flektogon, 80mm Biometar, 120mm MC, and the 180mm. Another lens not cover is the hard to find Arsat 55mm F4.5 PCS. Very SHARP..</p> <p> </p>

<p>Steve,</p> <p>You have two choices here:<br> CHOICE ONE: Sent it back to the original seller for a complete refund. This is a transport issue and mostly likely it is a circuit board. Expensive to repair and IF they still have available parts. Went through that with my Contax T2.</p> <p>CHOICE TWO: If you still want it & IF the seller will allow for a partial refund to fix it, Call Fuji USA and inquiry on having it service. Describe the problem to the technician to see if they still have parts. Then make a decision to either send it back or fix it.<br> <br />Sorry the news can't be anymore cheerful for you. All electronic cameras are at the mercy of available NEW Spare parts or to be cannibalize from a parts camera. Many OEM Service Dept are no longer available or are in limited capacity due to the legacy age of the camera and parts.</p> <p> </p>

<p>That would mean they would have to re-engineer the sheet metal housing to fit inside the space and slot of the Contax prism. Just make sure that it is grounded and would not interfere with any part of that area. (Possible electrical contacts, meter area,etc) As many of you may know, all Servicing and spare parts will cease after Feb. 28, 2015.<br> Several items as spare parts inventory are no longer available. All of my Contax 645 system, N-1 system, and Aria along with my Contax Yashica lenses are being serviced now. BIG BILL, but definitely servivced to last another 5-10 years....</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>Hi Dzung,</p> <p>The bag I used was mentioned by Tom. Lowepro Nova Mini AW bag.<br> In addition, I use a Calumet 12 X 12 wrap to protect it further.<br> I also found the leather case to be a cause of lens mottling & other issues as stated by others, due to the deterioration of the leather and its chemicals used in the tanning process.</p>

<p>Dzung,</p> <p>Take a look at these 2 LowePro camera bag.</p> <p>Adventura Ultra Zoom 100 & Adventura 120.<br /><br> <br> Its not quite perfect3, but might be able to do the job for you.<br /><br> I bought several LowePro bags on a closeout from B & H Photo years ago.<br /><br> They were perfect sized to fit a TLR upright.<br /><br> <br> Evan<br /><br> </p>

If it comforts anyone here, Sunpak are still in the business making flashes. Take a look at the 120J (Hasselblad D-40 Flash). I was at Tocad America talking with Nick Chersmak (formerly with Kyocera USA of Yashica-Contax) I'm getting all of my Contax 645 & N1 equipment serviced before the Feb. 2015 Deadline. And YES< they do have complete shutters for the Contax 645. I love all of my Metz flashes that I had over the years: 60CT-1, 60CT-2, 45CL-4, Hasselblad Pro Flash CL4. Powerful, light and a complete system.

<p>Leonard,<br> The other gents have it covered for studio light setup. If I need a good inexpensive studio setup, I would definitely my question here!</p> <p>I notice you have the older 500 C/M & 500 ELX, both non--TTL camera. <br> For portability, as requested by several people here, I used my Vivitar 283 or 285.<br> Inexpensive and widely available.<br> For more powerful flash for TTL for the 503 CW, I use the Hasselblad 4504 TTL ProFlash, a simple Metz CL-4 with the Hasselblad TTL module built-in. A decent Flash Guide number of 148. I also have the Hasselblad D-Flash 40.Both are still service by Hasselblad. Just service is available, as both discontinued by Hasselblad. <br> As an alternate, you can use Metz CL-4 and the Sunpak 120J flash, as both are still sold and serviced support is still available. <br> For both flash system, I use a Quantum Battery + as my main power source. Both are module and TTL module are available New or Used.</p>

<p>Why not use the pro lab such as North Coast Photographic Services or The Darkroom?<br> Its not a One Hour Photo Service, but offers scanning services and you will STILL get your film back.<br> Here are their links:</p> <p>http://northcoastphoto.com/film_developing_scans.html</p> <p>http://thedarkroom.com/</p>

<p>Martin,<br> Would you have any Russian camera repair shop or any mechanical camera repair shop in Australia? You might have to ship it out of the country for repair if you do not have any repair options in Australia.<br> <br />There is a custom fabricator / repair shop doing business in Hong Kong who can work on it. I bought a custom Zeiss 180mm Olympia Sonnar remounted for my Hasselblad 2000 / 200 series bodies. I did business with them off eBay. Shop is named Lens Workshop.</p> <p>If the front lens is rattling, it might be the front label band that is holding in the front element. If you have a pencil with the rubber eraser, you can use that to tighten up that band IF it is the band is NOT screw-in correctly. There are many good shops here in the US, if you don't mind shipping it in for repair.</p> <p>Evan</p>

<p>I noticed that both Darkroom Lab and North Coast Lab offers film processing and high resolution scanning.<br> Has anyone had any issues mailing film to them for processing in the Hot Summer months and also the warmer environment of transporting there? I saw a mention of using USPS Priority Mail, just not sure if the heat in the truck will "cook" the film..<br> I will be mailing from the East Coast to the West Coast. <br> I was notify by my local lab that they will be discontinuing C-41 film processing. E-6 has been discontinued and shipped out to a 3rd Party that they will reveal. It took me 10-15 days before my film was return to me...</p> <p>Evan</p> <p> </p>

<p>John,<br> I was unable to insert my PDF into the forum. I will PM you to send it directly to you.</p>

<p>John,</p> <p>Glad to SEE and hear of your good news with SRB Griturn. I have several versions of the CZJ 180mm Olympia Sonnar and all of them are good performers as you had shown us.<br> <br />I thought it was a 5 - 3 elements element group, but I could be wrong here. I will scan in an old article I read last week from "Classic Camera" magazine. It mentions the Olympia Sonnar and its long history behind why it was developed for <a title="Leni Riefenstahl" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leni_Riefenstahl">Leni Riefenstahl</a> for her filming of the <strong>1934 <a title="Nuremberg Rally" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuremberg_Rally">Nazi Party Congress</a> in <a title="Nuremberg" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuremberg">Nuremberg</a>. I hope that I do not offend anyone here with this notation.</strong> If I did, I apology in advance.</p> <p>I have several of these Sonnars. I use a combination of (4) of these modified 180mm Olympia Sonnar on my Hasselblad 1000F (2 versions) and 2000/200 series respectively.<br> Others I have have a removable Nikon mount, M-42, and Exakta 35mm mount. The later MC version has a fixed Pentacon 6 mount I use on my Contax 645 and Exakta 66.</p> <p>Great lens at a good price and with great optical performance.</p> <p>Evan</p> <p> </p>