jamie_robertson2

<p>There used to be an aftermarket cap that incorporated an OFF switch. Good idea if you can find one.</p>

<p>You may also have to set white balance to manual in case your camera is trying to "correct" the red filtration.</p>

<p>Exposure adjusted in PS</p><div></div>

<p>The shot with the B+W red filter looks badly underexposed. You will nee to expose correctly to make a fair comparison. </p>

<p>Thanks again folks, that's all good information.</p>

<p>Thanks Peter, that is good to know. </p>

<p>Looking for a definitive answer to this. Do any of you know if the flashguns from these manufacturers are completely interchangeable with each camera system? </p>

You will probably get a better result with a red filter but don't forget you'll lose 2-3 stops of light so you may need to either use a tripod or increase your ISO. In-camera red filters can often result in more image noise.

Your only concern should be that it is hard to get a vintage lens that will work as a wide angle on an APS-C camera. Other than that I wouldn't worry about it. If you don't like the look of an old 35mm film lens on a full frame digital camera then just crop the image to suit.

<blockquote> <p><em>The approximately 10x lower thermal dark current is a <strong>game changing</strong> factor, making this camera the top Canon camera for long exposure low light photography that I have tested.</em><br /><br /><em>Roger N. Clark on the 7D MkII.</em><br> <em> </em><br> <em> </em></p> </blockquote> <p><em><br /></em>Even if that's true, my personal preference for low light photography of the night sky would also be the 6D.</p>

<p>Here is a <a href="http://www.clarkvision.com/reviews/evaluation-canon-7dii/index.html">link</a> to a review of the 7D MkII by an astrophotography expert who reckons the 7D MkII is by far the best astro camera. The technical detail of his analysis is mind boggling so get yourself a strong coffee and sit down first.</p>

<p>It doesn't matter what type of lens you use, the 2x factor ALWAYS applies. Whatever the focal length of the lens, just double it to get the equivalent focal length in 35mm terms.</p>

<p>No</p>

<p>It is a clever idea but I don't think it will be a big hit. For that price I'd rather buy a low end m43 camera. I imagine holding the thing will be awful.</p>

<p>To the OP: The only question I have is why does it bother you? If you don't like Fuji don't buy 'em.</p>

<blockquote> <p>After you load the camera, back-wind the take-up spool until it's snug. It should then move every time you advance the film a frame. If it's not moving, you know where the problem is.</p> </blockquote> <p>And how do you suggest she do that on a Canon EOS?</p>

<blockquote> <p>I have an old canon T90 that I will subject to the arctic<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>Forget the T90, your film will snap as it becomes very brittle at such extreme temperatures. If you want to try film use a camera with a manual winding mechanism so that you can gently wind on each frame.</p> <blockquote> <p> <br> On the issue of the 1Ds, they are in-fact available at the $300 range - check out 'that' auction site - they are there, that's why I posed the question as to the utility of a beast like that ...fully weather sealed</p> </blockquote> <p>In your original post you were asking about the 1Ds2. You will not get a 1Ds2 for $300 unless the seller is an idiot or the camera is broken.</p> <p>You will however get a 1Ds Mk1 or a 1D MkII for $300. Just because the 1D cameras are pro bodies does not mean they will perform better in the cold. They are weather sealed but they are not cold sealed. A low temperature affects all cameras regardless of their build quality and sealing.</p> <p>Stick with the 5D2. Keep the camera and the batteries as warm as possible. A bit of old blanket wrapped around it and a couple of those disposable heat packs will do the job.</p>

<p>You won't get a 1DsII for 300 bucks so I assume you're talking about a 1D MkII. I have one and it's a great old camera. 8x11 prints will be great and the AF of the 1D is incredible. </p> <p>The only thing to warn you about is the LCD screen and the crazy method of operation. The playback and menu system feels totally alien compared to the 5D2 and must have been designed by a deranged monkey. The screen is poor and is no good for checking focus so I just leave it turned off. </p> <p>If you're not shooting fast paced action I would stick with the 5D2, it's a very robust camera. Just don't get it wet!</p>

<p>If your last scan was from the same roll as the previous two scans then it's likely to be caused in camera (i.e. wrong exposure) rather than during development. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Jim one more question if I may. Do the tanks have to be completely full since they are constantly agitated. it takes forever to fill tank with developer and fixer?</p> </blockquote> <p>The tank does not have to be full but there is a minimum required amount per roll. To keep things simple, work out how much fluid is needed to cover the film when the tank is standing on its base. Usually this quantity is stamped on the base of the tank. Using more chemical than necessary won't harm the film but it will take longer to fill and empty the tank.</p> <p>From your first two scans it looks as though you're doing great. There is just as much skill in scanning as there is in developing. I'm fairly certain that you'll get perfect scans from those negatives with practice.</p> <p>This guy on Youtube does a good walkthrough of how to develop C41 at home using simple equipment, it's definitely worth watching if you're a beginner: <a href="https://youtu.be/PKf_lNTvPw8">https://youtu.be/PKf_lNTvPw8</a></p>

<p>C41 should always be done at 38 celsius (100f) and the margin for error is just 0.5 degrees if you want perfect results. Only the temperature and timing of the developer is critical. The bleach and fixer can be +/- 3 degrees and the times are not as critical.</p> <p>If you are doing it in a standard development tank and don't have access to a Jobo machine or similar, here is the best way to do it:</p> <ul> <li>Load your film into your tank as normal</li> <li>Fill a large bucket with warm water and add hot/cold water until the temperature is approximately 50 celsius (120f). The larger the container, the more stable the temperature... use your bath if you have to.</li> <li>Put your developing tank and your bottles of chemicals into the bucket and put something heavy on them to keep them under the water.</li> <li>Let the water in the bucket cool naturally until it reaches 38.5 celsius (just over 100f). By this time all your chemicals and your tank should be at the same temperature.</li> <li>Take all your bottles and your tank out of the bucket. Pour the developer into the tank, start your timer, close the tank and put the tank straight back into the bucket.</li> <li>Hold the tank under the water and gently move it around in all directions (agitate) for 3 minutes. Do it gently, not vigorously!</li> <li>Remove the tank from the bucket and try to pour out the developer so that the last drops leave the tank 3 minutes and 15 seconds after you first poured it in.</li> <li>Immediately add your next chemical, close the tank and put it back into the bucket. Agitate the tank for the specified time and move on to the next chemical.</li> <li>Continue this method until you've used all the chemicals in their correct order.</li> <li>You can now use the water in the bucket to wash your film as it is at an appropriate temperature and is better than using freezing cold water.</li> <li>Add the stabilising solution, slosh around for a minute then hang up your negs to dry.</li> </ul>

<p>My advice would be to ignore anything written by DXO. Their methods may be scientific but their findings bear little resemblance to real world usage. </p> <p>I would also recommend the Canon 28mm f/1.8 but only if you really need f/1.8. It is noticeably soft wide open but is a good performer otherwise. If you don't need f/1.8 then the Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS is a better choice and the IS partly makes up for the smaller max aperture anyway.</p>

<p>Hi Brett,</p> <p>If it were me I would squirt some electrical contact cleaner or some iso-propanol (lens cleaning fluid) into the slot where the wheel protrudes and give the wheel a good spin for a couple of minutes. Remove the battery first to prevent any shorting. The liquid dries after a few minutes so you can replace the battery and test it soon after.</p> <p>A sticky shutter is quite a common problem on the 350D and the cure for it was to pour a teaspoonful of the same fluid into the battery compartment and pressing the shutter repeatedly whilst the camera was upside down.</p>

<p>Crumpler Cupcake for me.</p>

<p>http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Digital-Camera-Battery-FUJIFILM/dp/B003YUE5Z4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1434284255&sr=8-3&keywords=epson+rd-1+battery</p>