jamie_robertson2

<p>Of course. I've shot weddings with a 350D. The old "it's the photographer, not the camera" cliche is very apt. A fast prime lens would also be a big help.</p>

<p>What a wonderful little presentation. I really enjoyed it, thanks :-)</p>

<blockquote> <p>I'm going for quality here not quantity</p> </blockquote> <p>5D MkII<br> 24-105mm f/4L IS<br> 35mm f/2<br> 50mm f/1.4<br> 85mm f/1.8</p> <p>You'll get the whole lot used for under £2500 and it will give you a complete kit capable of outstanding image quality and professional 1080p video.</p>

<p>You don't need a huge fast CF card for a 5D Mk1. You could buy a new CF card and a card reader for the price of a good feed at McDonalds. </p>

<p>Either use your lenses on a Pentax 67 or get hold of a mirrorless camera that has focus peaking. Manually focusing old lenses on a modern mirrorless camera is a pleasure and doesn't need silly AF chips. </p>

<p>I've heard of quite a few people getting their M9 sensors replaced due to faults. Another reason why I am avoiding getting a digital M.</p>

<p>Considering we Brits pay for the BBC, that is outrageous!</p>

<p>Reid,</p> <p>C41 is easy. The only thing you need to take care with is the temperature and timing of the initial development stage. It must be dead on 38C / 100F. If you're just using a basic tank get hold of the biggest container you can find (huge bucket) and fill it with 40C water. Put the tank in there for 5 - 10 minutes to get it warmed through then pour in the developer that you've pre-warmed to 38C. Keep the tank held under the water during the entire development procedure to keep the temperature steady. Your negs will turn out perfect. Bleach and fix isn't as critical .+/- 3C is fine.</p>

<p>I used to favour slide all the time 10+ years ago but times have changed and now the C41 emulsions rule. They are far superior for scanning, have much better exposure latitude and are all round easier to live with. Ektar and Portra are outstanding. Unless you project I see no advantage to slide whatsoever.</p>

<p>If your chemicals are good then the only thing you have to worry about is time and temperature. Get those right and your negs will be good. The time and temperature is absolutely critical during the development stage, doesn't matter as much for the blix etc.</p>

<p>Dust and drying marks most probably. Wash your negs in distilled water before drying, it's cheap and will cure most of your problems. There will always be some dust on negatives, it's part of the game.</p>

<blockquote> <p>For what it is worth i was told by a person who should know that it is not the number of pixels that matter but the size of the sensor. He said no phone will ever be able to match a modern digital camera.</p> </blockquote> <p>That's a generalisation. Basically 10 million large pixels are better than 10 million small pixels.</p> <p>Nokia made a camera phone that was 40+ megapixels. It then took the average reading from groups of pixels to produce lower resolution images of high quality. It's image quality was comparable to that of a consumer DSLR. The downside was that it's fixed slow lens was limited and the puny sensor size meant shallow depth of field was impossible.</p> <p>If you look at the specification of the new Panasonic camera phone that I linked to in this thread it is fairly obvious that photographs from it will be of better quality than those from most compact digital cameras.</p>

The obvious downside to a camera phone is the lack of an optical zoom. But I think the fact that you always have a phone in your pocket makes up for that. The iPhone 6 also has real optical image stabilisation instead of the digital stabilisation more commonly found on smartphones. All in all it's a tasty piece of kit.

<p>Here it is: http://www.techradar.com/news/phone-and-communications/mobile-phones/the-lumix-cm1-is-the-first-android-phone-with-an-1-inch-camera-sensor-1265614</p> <p>It also does 4K video and has a 28mm f/2.8 "Leica" lens.</p>

<p>The built in automatic HDR function on the iPhone 6 is surprisingly good. It does an amazing job of contrasty scenes and is quick i.e. it takes the two shots in immediate succession so quickly that you can't sense any delay. Probably no good for action but for general photography it is very nice.</p> <p>There's no way I will ever buy another P&S. </p> <p>At Photokina, Panasonic released a new phone with a "1 inch sensor". Not sure what the model is but it's worth looking up.</p>

<p>For display purposes have a look at prints mounted behind acrylic. I have had a few made and they are absolutely beautiful. The usual lab procedure is to make a machine print on Fuji Crystal Archive paper and then permanently glue/weld the print to a piece of acrylic so that the image is viewed though the acrylic. They are not cheap but you don't need to frame them so in that respect they are good value. For the viewer, they look every bit as good as a framed Cibachrome in my opinion.</p> <p>Naturally you will need a decent quality scan of your transparencies first. For 16x20 prints I would go as far as saying that a drum scan is not necessary from 4x5 or 8x10. A decent home flatbed scan would suffice.</p>

<p>Thanks again guys, I've learned a lot already. Film and processing costs don't worry me. I would only be doing black and white and I can get the film relatively cheaply. I would also be processing the negs myself.</p> <p>Thanks for the tip about the lack of 8x10 enlargers. I suppose making sure I get the right view camera and lens at the right price is the key. I will do some more research. Thank you so much for your help. </p>

<p>Thanks guys,</p> <p>I'm in the trade so getting hold of 8x10 film isn't a problem. It was the actual camera and lens that I was wondering about. I suppose the best way to learn would be to try and get my hands on an 8x10 camera and see how they're put together. I know the cameras are basically a wooden box and the shutter is in the lens... it's how the film is loaded, inserted and removed that interests me. Now wondering if I can find a Youtube vid with a demo...</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi guys,</p> <p>I am an experienced photographer but have never shot large format. I fancy having a go at shooting 8x10 and contact printing the negatives for super sharp prints.</p> <p>What's the most economical way of getting started and what do I need?</p> <p>I know I need a lens and some sort of wooden box cam but what else? Do I need film holders, rails, bellows and other stuff? I just want the basics, enough to take shots of landscapes etc.</p> <p>Dummy advice appreciated.</p>

<p>How did we ever manage when we shot film?</p>

<p>Thanks Glen. I developed 4 rolls today. I started the timer as soon as I started pouring in the developer and started pouring in the blix solution at exactly 3:15. Results look good so far.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig, I will try that on next batch of films and see how it goes.</p>

<p>Hi folks,</p> <p>With the C41 developing kits I use the development time is 3mins 15sec but the documentation does not say if that time includes pouring in and pouring out. My results have been OK so far but I'm just wondering what the correct procedure is. I'm using Tetenal C41 Rapid for rotary processing in a Jobo CPE2. Any ideas?</p>

<p>Why not buy yourself another 7D that has less than 1000 shutter actuations? Never mind the fact that it may have been used to record 1 million hours of 1080p video in salt spray conditions... as long as it only has a few shutter actuations it will be OK, right?</p>

<p>I'll bet I could put together a series of images taken using Leicas and cameras/lenses from other manufacturers and NOBODY would be able to say which images came from which. </p>