mohammed_abidally

<p>The 7D has 18mm²/mp vs the the 1DMkIII which has 52mm²/mp<br>

Logically looking this means that Canon is pushing some serious new limits of technology.<br>

However I am confident that technlogy will rise, just like pc's, mobile phones, tv's etc they will all get smaller and pack much more punch.</p>

<p>I would phone and insist on a replacement.<br>

4th time - your joking!</p>

 

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<p>Not in my dictionary.<br>

Candid is where the subject person in neither specially performing nor posing in any special manner, e.g. sitting on a park bench chewing gum and dreaming would be candid.<br>

Websters says "relating to or being photography of subjects acting naturally or spontaneously without being posed"....<br>

That said, I guess there could be "candid moments" even while a subject is playing a sport.</p>

 

<p>MLU is easy to use and makes a very noticeabe difference to sharpness when used on a sturdy tripod with a cable release. I also find it helps in that it makes me think more carefully about composition etc and take one or two carefully though out shots rather that just clicking away lots of pics.</p>

 

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<p>Hi I checked this directly with Graham Merrit at Lee Filters and he confirmed that you can use IPA......</p>

 

 

gpmerritt@leefilters.com to Mohammed Abidally

May 30

 

<br />

<br />Your quest is over, I am happy to confirm that you can clean LEE resin filters with IPA, Acetone or similar mild solvents. I may change our FAQs just to mention solvents. <br /><br />With regards,<br />Graham.

<p>Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device</p>

 

 

 

<p>Canon 10-22 EFS, great image quality.</p>

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<p>Could you please post a couple of sample shots with shooting data?<br />Yes, ideally for indoor shots you should shoot in M, suggest you try first with 1/60sec and f4, if pcture is still dark check for any bright/white/relective objects in frame that may be throwing the ETTLII off and addjust with some +FEC on the flash. You can go up to +3FEC. White clothes etc, even a small area within the frame can cause the Canon ETTLII to underexpose as it meters of the brightest spot in the frame.</p>

<p>Great lens very hand holdable.</p>

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<p>Great lens very hand holdable.</p>

 

<p>Great lens very hand holdable.<br>

This one is off a movng and rocking boat...</p>

 

<p>Cathay Photo - Peninsula Plaza, Singapore.</p>

<p>BTW is your going to do macro shots of insects like dragon flies, butterflies etc, the 300/f4 is superb too.</p>

<p>It depends on what type of wildlife you will be doing.</p>

<p>Birds - 400/5.6 or 500/f4 or 600/f4 or 800/5.6<br>

Mammals etc the 300 2.8 is excellent.<br>

The 500 f4 is probably the best al round bet.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>5D Mk II is a full frame so much better for WA landscape.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Use a ND filter, suggest a 3 stop.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I ain't no expert but these look digitally done, possible use of the dodge and burn tools.</p>

<p>Canon 10-22 EFS<br>

Its not the extra couple of mm, this is just a really super lens with virtually L like quality renders sky and clouds etc beautifully, fully worth the the money.</p>

<p>I would suggest you to be very very careful because many older older flash systems have high voltages and these can fry your new equipment. </p>

<p>I second the scotch, make it two!</p>

<p>The is great post so well and articulately posted, I am in the same dillemma. I shoot with a 500 f4 L IS + 30 and looking for a body UG, still abit confused.</p>

<p>Hope some experts will give good advice here.</p>

<p>Yes that should be quite possible.</p>

<p>Unfortunately when it come to good filters the old adage good things no cheap is quite true.<br>

Sing you mention that you use high quality glass I suggest you look at the B&W filters, excellent optics bt a bit pricey.</p>