mohammed_abidally

40D has faster focus, slightly better high ISO performance, slightly bigger LCD, slightly faster burst mode, in camera sensor cleaning, and perhaps a slightly bigger burst mode buffer and the in camera JPEG's are better too. However if shooting RAW there is really no tangible difference in image quality.

 

Oh and 40D had a few more mega pixels but this too is insignificant in size of enlargement possible.

Larry has given some excellent advice, right now the big boys are bringing out new DSLR bodies like its an annual seasonal thing, but without good glass your very contrained. I would also advise you to get familiar with some of the computer and software skills needed to really enjoy a DSLR. Unlike film where you sent it to a lab for professional processing and printing, with a DSLR one need to do ones own processing in a "digital darkroom" for optimum results.

Sounds like a contact problem however please also check your flash head tilt angle, that it is not in the full down position. The normal posiion is one step up from full down. ETTL shoud still work what ever the zoom. If in the full down position normally zoom does not display at all.

I use the Energizer rechargeables too and have found these to be quite good and last a long time. Have heard about a newer brand called Eneloop which has better perormance but this may also need a special dedicated charger which comes with the batteries.

40D RAW files will not work in CS2, you have to use CS3, this is why I have nt upgraded my 30D to 40D.

I fully agree with Umesh , must have a D3 atleast!

 

Seriously, I do have a philosophical view too, when i was akid I used my dad camera, no auto anything and quickly learnt about shutter speed, aperture, film speed (then it was ASA), later years I got zooms, a pentax ES11 etc etc, bottom line I learnt and understood what the camera was doing.

 

Sadly mt two children aged 11 and 14 use my point and shoot and take nice pictures but have no or little understanding of the basics and I worry if they will ever learn.

 

I feel that a child strugling a bit with a manual mode camera has a lot of benefit in the long run.

Hi Mike,

 

The CR2 " is a RAW file and is never altered, it is always in its original state. the changes you make are only only conversion setting and these settings are stored in the XMP file. To get back to the origonal default settings without deleting the XMP file, you shoul open the CR2 file in camera raw and select Camera Raw Default Settings.

Exposure comensation can get shifted inadvertently very easily, all it takes is turning the wheel big wheel in the rear during metering.

 

Run a simple test as david bell said above because in manual mode exposure compensation is totally dysfunctional.

Sound like the heats have started for Photokina!

Another consideration though not optical, the B+W is very sturdy and the threads are a lot better, much less likely to

get stuck on the lens. I have had a few Hoyas getting stuck on my lenses so now prefer the B&W's.

Off Camera Jpegs off the 40D can look superior to the 5D that is because I feel canons newer jpg algorithms are so much improved.

 

However the 5D + L lenses should give you much better images

 

Suggest you compare the lenses on one body first.

Geoffrey, this is one of the benefits of digital, you can see immediately when and where an image is over exposed. The flashing patch shows blown highlights which in laymans terms is spots where it is extremely over exposed.

 

Suggest you read the manual.

Try metering just a little bit away from the sun itself.

Hi and nice effort, I too found this method interesting and over last weekend was a small rustic resort near the beach where I experimented with some slow long exposures and a flash light, herewith one of the shots....<div></div>

Hi Gabriel,

 

I am also considering buying one of the above lenses and for the same use as you describe. Your post is very clear and well worded would be nice to have more opinions. If your are a member on FM suggest if you could post it there in the nature wildlife section as well as you may get some good responses.

Agree with Miserere - comp on the 2nd one is great!

right click the image thumbnail in Bridge and select "Camera Raw Defaults".......

I think Alamy strips all meta data and puts their own name/address/contact details in metadata and as copyright holder as well. Alamy has no restriction to selling on other sights however an unwritten rule is that RM must not be sold RF elsewhere and also if you sell an exclusive licence then I suppose you must not sell the image elsewhere.

Aaron,

 

My advi ce to a 16 year old is..

 

The wolrd is a large and wonderful pace with lots of bountiful fruit for those who seek them. This often requires hard work, perseverence, and focus. Do go out and see the world and do take a camera with you and do take a course to hone your skills, but keep you further options open.

 

Good luck.

Why dont you consider buying a body/kit lens and rent a long lens just for the safari. Suggest a canon 40D with 18/55 and rent a 100-400L or better still a 500L f4

Canon Singapore service was very good, suggest you try them.

Place to go in Singapore is Cathay Photo in ground floor of Peninsula Plaza. Very reliable and well established. They will serve you well and no pushy sales guys. Prices generally about 20% higher than B&H but when you work out the GST refund vs's USA sales tax and shipping it works quite close.

He he! I had te same few days back with 30D when I tested a long lens with a 1.4x converter and then forgot to deactivate the MLU and turned up at my nephews birthday party and family photographer.

Ya, one more thng, I agree with Rainer - the 85 is a bit long, perhaps better off with about a 17-55, but then again keeping a distance may get you better candids.

Hi, I only speak from experience shooting teenage my kids parties etc.

 

Suggest you do use a diffuser and point it upwards at about 45deg angle. If you go AV the shutter speeds will be way too low and give blurry pics. Suggest you select a high ISO say 400 and go manual with a shutter speed as low as you dare, say 1/15 or 1/30, an aperture of about f2.8, with the flash on ETTL2. This should capture the ambience, yet give you sharp images.

 

If there are disco lights etc try some slow sync flash with very slow shutter speed of say 3 secs with small aperture of f16 for some nice special effects with sharp eyes/faces.