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oskar_romeo

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Everything posted by oskar_romeo

  1. Do you actually re-expose twice? After 1st. development and after bleach clearing? tcdp
  2. Has anyone tried to bleach RA-4 paper sheets using C41 bleach RA instead of the intended RA-4 Blix? I understand It would have to be fixed after bleach. Thanks
  3. Thank you for sharing your experince, Mr Marcus!! I might as well use the #15 Safelight to developing sheets by inspection doing reversal process with RA-4 paper. It might be usefeull in the B&W first development that should take no more than a 1.5 minutes, maybe less if I switch it on some 15 seconds after starting to develop. Thanks, Sir romeo
  4. Thank you. Can anyone tell me the difference between thses two??? Or is it that the first one is intended only to be used as filter and dnot as a safelight? Some people in the web mentions using Wratten 13 as a safelight filter, or is it pure kodak 13 safelight they are using?. Thanks everybody!!
  5. Is there a big difference between both of these filters? they are both supposed to be used with RA-4 paper in darkroom but the first states to be Amber and Wratten to be Green!! Thanks evreybody!!
  6. oskar_romeo

    B&W reversal

    This is my first attepmt of B&W reversal using a rehal bleach and an ammonia batha afterwards. Black dots appear as courtesy of my old fix batch
  7. Excellent! Some said it's 3 ISO; So I will stick to 6 Iso, since in a sunny day it's about 1 sec at f/11 to which my camera is set up!!
  8. I reckon that info is useful for enlarging prints but I want this Ilfospeed photo paper to use it as a negative! Thank you!!
  9. Hi everybody!! What Iso speed should I rate this photo paper? I will place it inside a 6x9 camera using a shutter release. Thanks!!:)
  10. I don't want to put your statement in doubt but, are you sure of this equation? Has this proved to be exact? As someone has referred (which BTW is completly right) anydrhous carbonate stops being anyhidrous for too long when box/package has been opened and exposed to ir since moisture reconverts it to bi-carbonate in some time, this makes difficult to be accurate when measuring chemicals which might eventually lead you to a undesired outcome. romeo
  11. Yeah! It's sold in pool stores as 'Dry Acid' . I assume bleach is once used and then discarded, right? Very nice formula! I'm gonna try it soon! Thanks for sharing!! romeo
  12. Well, I live in a very humid port city, so in the end this takes me back to the beginning. I think i will just switch to Borax instead of the carbonate, or eventually buying any carbonate and adjusting the involved quantity. Thanks for the answer. romeo
  13. Very nice! Is there an alternative for Sodium Bisulfate for the bleach? Would any of these do? : Sodium bisulfite, potasium phospahte , sodium phosphate+ citrate? Any? Cheers!!
  14. Hello, I am about to make some Cafennol Developer and already have ascorbic acid and Kbr. I found a Sodium Carbonate provider to which i asked if the product is anhydrous. He replied saying the data sheet only states that hymidity is 0.150 max Can this be considered anhydrous since it´s less than 1 gram? I already know if heated sod. Bicarbonate becomes sod. Carbonate, but I just don´t want to do that. Thanks in advance romeo
  15. Ok, I so nothing to worry about if taking normal procedures (dust mask and golves) and once mixed up with water and other chemicals will be fine? Well, it seems fine, then. Thanks a lot, a I was really worried!!
  16. Hello, everyone I am thinking of getting some CD4 to make color developing at home. The supplier says it´s toxic and I need minimum a mask with dust filter. All developers contain toxic chemicals (I reckon color chemicals contain more) but having only worked with B&W developers I really don't know how much caution I shoyuld take with this!! In your experince, should I need anything else besides that? Gloves, dust mask filter. How should I get rid of disposed chemicals? Any suggestion is welcomed!! Thanks romeo
  17. Thank you, but it's a bit difficult obtaining Phenidone in my country. Thanks anyway
  18. Thanks for the answer. I think this store is selling 'POTA developer' which is Pehenidone base developer, so it's really not phenidone!! I was also suspicious Thank you!!
  19. Since the only available way to get Phenidone near me (without import issues) is buying 1 litter bottles it seems to be way too much developer so I need to know a few things: Will it last a some years before expiring? How should I store it once and everytime I get a portion out of it in order not to get it damaged by oxygen or other agents? Should I place marbles inside the bottle to top it not allowing air inside? All comments are wellcome!! tcdp
  20. Well, I reckon 30 seconds developing would apply for x ray developers, which are stronger and faster than film ones. I am about to develop it with some other single shots to also try to set a parameter between dental iso and film iso (whose relation has not been stated by anyone or at least there is no info on the web). I started this thread trying to know if there is a signifficant difference among GBX-2 and Kodak 1A filter, some might state a scientific response which is respectfull, but I wonder why some orthochromatic x ray film appoint directly to GBX-2 safelight filter when Kodak 1A is merely used for soft orthochromatic film; orthochromatic is supposed to be non sensitive to red. Well, perhaps the answer is that x ray film is different to photo or paper film. These are experimental exercise I am not home now to do various tests but in a few days be sure I'll keep you posted. Thank you Dustin and everybody!!
  21. Yeah! That's the idea, see the development in progress!! I would be using only 100 ml of developer for such a tiny little film! Actually I have read on the net that 1A and GBX-2 ares similar so I will be running a test just as Mr alan_marcus suggested or I will just take a pic and simply develope it with the 1A filter lamp.
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