murray_kelly

The whole idea of Caffenol started when someone wanted to develop film without major chemicals. It is considered 'main stream' now. I would post a file for you but it won't accept my picture for some reason. Sorry. There's plenty around tho.

Sounds like the Agfa Rapid cassette. The same dimensions with no centre spool. It is designated the SL for schnell laden cameras. The camera pushes the film across the gate and it winds itself round inside the take-up side.

Voigtländer - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

Sallie Gardner at a Gallop - Wikipedia

As said on the other group, Mike, 1961 FX-2 sufficient A bath for 250 ml working in laboratory glass ampoules. Works just fine.

It occurs to me you could even try a bunch of rubber bands down the well and experiment from there. Just have some fun and see how it goes, we all started off 'reel' simple Don't commit anything important to these first few trials.

To actually answer your questions. Yes there should be a good seal between the lid and tank, but half fill it and roll it on the counter top. There shouldn't be enough to leak out the lid center filling hole. If there is dump some water (no need to take off the lid) and try again and you will know. If it passes that test you can use a rubber bung on the lid. I recently got one off the net for this exact purpose and cut the excess off the bottom so it fitted snugly. Should the lid not fit water tight you can find a supplier of 'O' rings and drop that into the well of the top rim of the tank and the lid will screw down on it. Take the tank and show them what you want. Without a bung you can make a twiddler from a piece of plastic that has a deep 'U' cut in the end. Look at the reels and you will see the little crossbar down inside the reel assembly. I leave it to your ingenuity but it doesn't have to be plastic although that is easiest to clean. It looks like it goes down to 16mm (and 110) should you ever get that adventurous. Good luck with your find.

I once 'resurrected' some D-72 (dektol) with a little added sodium acsorbate. Just use enough to remove the brown color. Use the ascorbate if you can, but if you must use ascorbic acid (vit C) dissolve it in a little water first and add sodium bicarb slowly until the fizzing stops. The straight acid might pull the pH down but it doesn't take much so go gently. Worth a try as it sounds as if you might toss it anyway.

<p>Aye, half of all your films are like that? Can't blame the Rollei for that.<br> I have a Paterson with white translucent spirals that does that if I use it without the top cap. It came to me without one and I sent off to a laboratory supply house and bought a rubber bung (slightly too deep, so had to be trimmed off the bottom with a very sharp knife) after which it hasn't happened again.<br> Also make sure the seal under the lid is bedded correctly if your model tank has such.</p>

<p>John-Paul, you obviously don't need my advice as your samples show. Very nice.<br> Mostly I use a stand regime of lots of agitation for 2 minutes. Any less and you risk streaking in the highlights. After that I cannot resist a twiddle or inversion every 20 mins. Total time about an hour.<br> I feel I am preaching to the choir.</p>

<p>First off I don't have any Adox CMS 20 II so apologies, but have had success with Rollei Retro 80S which is hard to control with Rodinal. I have been using 1ml Rodinal with 1ml HC-110 in 250ml as a stand developer at box speed and like the results. The resulting mix, when it's boiled down, is the addition of ascorbate and borax except the pH is 8.8 - lower than borax.<br> I know you didn't ask the question but it may be a help since you appaerntly have both of these developers.<br> Here is one I took on a bright day in central France about mid-day. </p><div></div>

<p>Can't help with the developing of C-6 but I'm always interested in other people's approach to a common problem. I would like to see the 'bong' or a pointer to a picture and construction technique. I modified a tank to take small films and can do 2 x 16mm from 24 frames each in 100ml developer. Never hurts to know alternatives however.<br> Thanks, Jim.<br> Murray</p>

<p>I have read about Dave Soemarko LC-1 and LC-1B for continuous tone with lith film. An example is this thread<br> http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?43815-Soemarko-LC-1-Developer<br> My interest was in the high contrast slow films but never got around to trying it. It may help you in your quest!</p>

<p>Thank you Martin. From an old hand that is praise indeed.</p> <p>I do have better resolution pics, like your do, but it illustrates the fun of of a 'spy camera' then and now.</p> <p>It is loaded with action. I have better scans (sharpened) but it illustrates all that ultra-miniature has to offer. <br> Beware! It is an addiction! :-(</p>

<p>Minolta I. Slit film in home made slitter (a student, so what else?). Duty free and BP5. Tried many films and the panatomic-X was the best and the Adox R14 was close. that's when I discovered Beutler.<br /> Found an old print recently and scanned it. We were touring the local railway workshops and altho photography was forbidden nobody noticed the Minolta.</p> <p>Acquired a few more subminis lately but that was the start of a long love affair. This was FP3 slit.</p><div></div>

<p>If it's B&W you can rehalogenate with say, CuSO4/NaCl 1 Tbs in a tank with a dash of sulphuric acid (or sod. bisulfAte) Give it 5 mins or a bit more. Wash well and redevelop more vigorously - all in broad daylight. Re-fix altho there shouldn't be much to fix out. Only did it once but it worked.</p>

<p>I was 12 and the year was 1948. I was given a box camera that took 12 on a 120 or 620 film (either) Only problem was no part of the picture was quite in focus.</p> <p>It was all contact prints and ortho film with a soup dish (quite literally) for the solutions and my Mum calling out the minutes from the next room. No gloves, and a red bulb replacing the usual one overhead. Always ID-11. Never heard of D-76 until much later. No skin complaints, ever.</p> <p>Had to put up with that camera for 3 years and graduated to a Kodak Vigilant. Better film by then but still contact printing.</p>

<p>I have used rodinal and HC-110 1:1:250 as a stand developer. The pH was 8.8 The film was a contrasty one (RO80s) and the tonality was good. The ascorbate and sulphite replacement in the HC-10 resulted in something like gainer's mix with borax and ascorbate.<br /> The acutance was less than the rodinal alone but others who saw the results said they didn't mind the result at all. I was a little disappointed.<br> Bessa R , Snapshot Scopar</p><div></div>

<p>That year I was still at university and had worked my way to a Contaflex via a Retina Ia.<br> The very next year (60) that went for a Yashica Pentamatic which served well for over 10 tears.<br> What would I have bought with cost as no obstacle? Never entered my student pauper's mind :-( My friend bought a second hand Leica and it capped so I wasn't attracted that way and having gotten over MF perhaps I would have bought a Minox. I was having a lot of fun with a Minolta16 so maybe I'd've gone that way.</p>

<p>The data sheet states that the base is different for the two formats.</p>

<p>Thanks Dave. I had never seen Martin's effort about this, and congratulate him on spending many hours assembling the above information for our education.<br> What a marvel of ingenuity it is.</p>

<p>A slightly different problem is a camera that needs a mercury battery (not a cell).<br> The Roiiei A-110 and E-110 require a 5.6V mercury battery, now unobtainium. A look inside reveals a steering diode to protect against reverse polarity and if replaced with a silicon 1n914 or similar RF diode the battery is OK for the metering and shutter if you replace it with a stack of silver cells. I used 3 x SR44 and 1 x Sr43 to get the correct length to fit the holder.<br> Once I replaced the Canonet 28 adjuster resistors with an adjustable variable resistor and re-calibrated satisfactorily at home. That camera went on a world tour in one of the RFF pass the camera events. Nobody complained of bad exposures.<br> see:http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/siloxidemodify.html<br> for details.<br> If the bottom cover comes off easily, the schottky diode is a piece of cake to add next the cell holder and should someone want it original, easily removed again.</p>

<p>Bulk loading? There is a dedicated group on Flickr using PolyPan F and also another group using Hawkeye Surveillance film. You can still get the Hawkeye sometimes but the PPF is freely available. Be aware that you can get an unacceptable flare with PPF which some love and others detest. I found I could control that by stopping the film pressure plate from acting as a mirror - the film hasn't got the usual anti-halation backing because it is intended as a movie print film.<br> Check them out and look at some results before committing to 150 feet at a ridiculously low price. </p>

<p>With a vertical shutter I have seen some blades bent or slightly distorted from a fat finger being poked into it. Have a look see if there is a problem on the right side looking in with the back open.</p>